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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 1772

post #26566 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post

lurker[1].gif loafers.... anyone, anyone?

I wear penny loafers more than any other shoe, but not having a high instep, can't really comment. I don't think of them as shoes that would accommodate that very well, they don't have the ability to adjust like a laced shoe does.

AE does a custom thing where they can put shoes on different lasts (and select custom colors and leathers, ect), perhaps that might be worth a shot? Get your loafer on a last known to accommodate high insteps well.
post #26567 of 33197
I was watching House of Cards tonight and I noticed in episode 6 and 7 there is a scene where Frank has his collar unbuttoned and his tie removed and his collar stays in place at the points as if it was a button down shirt but there are no buttons.

I was wondering if anyone has seen this and knows what type of collar it is that he is wearing. I assume its some kind of hidden button down but I figured I would put it out there to see if anyone knows for sure.
post #26568 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM1 View Post

Would anyone know what the button-down flap near the trouser side pocket is for?





Edit:

Perhaps it is a ticket pocket?

Edit 2:

Yes, it is a ticket pocket.

Very nice trouser...compliments.
post #26569 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by potemkin_city_limits View Post

I was watching House of Cards tonight and I noticed in episode 6 and 7 there is a scene where Frank has his collar unbuttoned and his tie removed and his collar stays in place at the points as if it was a button down shirt but there are no buttons.

I was wondering if anyone has seen this and knows what type of collar it is that he is wearing. I assume its some kind of hidden button down but I figured I would put it out there to see if anyone knows for sure.

Haven't seen the show, but maybe he is wearing magnetic collar stays like Wurkin Stiffs.
post #26570 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Van Veen View Post

Haven't seen the show, but maybe he is wearing magnetic collar stays like Wurkin Stiffs.

I was almost certain that would be the first suggestion and I was going to mention in my original post that I dont think hes wearing magnetic stays. His collar doesnt look super rigid like when you wear a collar stay. There is a shot in episode 7 where it almost looks like a button but it doesnt really look like any kind of a button down when he has the collar buttoned up and his tie on.
post #26571 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kensington View Post

About how much would you folks estimate the maximum a tailor could reduce in waist size without noticeably messing up the proportions?

Two inches or more is pushing your luck but a good tailor will also recognize this, tell you this, and either not do the adjustment or tell you some other stuff will be thrown off due to it.

If I am buying off the rack the most I'll ever go is one higher - I'm a 32 and won't buy higher than 33.
post #26572 of 33197
What makes an expensive shirt so expensive?

I can tell with suits, but can't really see with shirts once beyond a certain level.

Like what is the difference between a $525 RLPL shirt and a $125 BB or RL Polo shirt?

I have a handful of $400+ shirts (that I paid nowhere near retail for) and often shop in higher end stores, and to my eye a Peter Millar shirt at $135 can keep pace with most anything.

Sure my Turnbull and Asser or Purple Label shirts are really nice, but why are they quadruple the price of an Ike Behar?

Sure, with Prada or D&G a lot of it is the name, I understand that.

J
post #26573 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by J011yroger View Post

What makes an expensive shirt so expensive?

I can tell with suits, but can't really see with shirts once beyond a certain level.

Like what is the difference between a $525 RLPL shirt and a $125 BB or RL Polo shirt?

I have a handful of $400+ shirts (that I paid nowhere near retail for) and often shop in higher end stores, and to my eye a Peter Millar shirt at $135 can keep pace with most anything.

Sure my Turnbull and Asser or Purple Label shirts are really nice, but why are they quadruple the price of an Ike Behar?

Sure, with Prada or D&G a lot of it is the name, I understand that.

J

Handwork, shirting, buttoning

 

I don't mean this in an offensive way, but perhaps your eye can't tell the difference between hand and machine-work?

post #26574 of 33197
I'm not offended at all, I'm asking because I want to know and learn.

J
post #26575 of 33197
They charge triple the price because people will pay it. Simple as that.
post #26576 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post

They charge triple the price because people will pay it. Simple as that.

This does not explain why people pay it.
I would be very interested in the answer as well and I am certain there is one.

Details like button holes and handwork in places where others use machines and everything definitely contribute to it.
post #26577 of 33197
Many, many reasons.

The quality of the materials. Fabric used, for one, will be of the very best quality and come from the most renowned European mills. The fabric is also usually pre-washed so that it won't shrink as much as cheaper shirts. Mother of pearl buttons are also used instead of plastic ones.

The amount of handwork involved in making the shirt. On a Borrelli or Finamore shirt for example, every seam that is possible to be made by hand is stiched by hand, by this I mean everything, buttonholes, shoulders, collar etc. The areas where machine stitching still exists remain purely for strength. Handwork takes time and skill, longer than using a sewing machine and obviously the fact of possessing that skill. Artisan shirts require artisans themselves, who aren't paid terrible wages in a big sweatshop...Borrelli used to send his items to be hand-stiched out to old women etc. to be stitched in their houses in their own time. All this is therefore factored into the cost.

Your example of RLPL as the 'expensive' shirt isn't a very good example at all, due to the fact it possesses hardly any of the qualities above and the price is mainly for branding and branding alone. T&A is quite similar, although the fabrics they use are exquisite. However, when you consider the smaller scale makers such as those Italian ones mentioned above, then you begin to see why they cost so much.
post #26578 of 33197
Ich makes a great point. A lot of it is down to return to scale in production. Some brands like suitsupply tries to mimic the feeling of brands such as the ones mentioned above. The result is, IMHO, good if not great. You have @ €99 Thomas Mason silverline fabrics with some handmade details such as button holes, pleated shoulders, collar etc, but it is certainly more industrially made than my Finamores or Barbas. It is also definitely worth mentioning that they are made - if not in sweatshops - in low wage countries such as Romania or even China. This does not mean that it is necessarily bad, just that one should be aware of what one is buying. It does of course also come down to branding, like with everything else.
post #26579 of 33197
A hand sewn stitch isn't "better" than a machine made one. It takes more time, and costs more. But "better" is subjective.
post #26580 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post

A hand sewn stitch isn't "better" than a machine made one. It takes more time, and costs more. But "better" is subjective.

A fair point. On some of my shirts the hand made details have actually resulted in loose thread. But it explains (and for many, warrants) the higher cost.
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