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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 1750

post #26236 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post

It has long existed as an occasional response to heat and fatigue, of course.

But as a form of youthful rebellion... well, back when youthful rebellion was truly youthful rebellion, and not simply fashion and posturing, no self-respecting rebel would be caught wearing a tie, loosened or otherwise. smile.gif

Okay, maybe the rebel would wear a tie as a headband. (A particularly well regarded practice when it was an American flag necktie.)

Even if one's work place required a tie? Even bad ass rebels gots ta eat.
post #26237 of 33197
I regularly wear an ocbd, tie, cricket sweater, jeans, and sometimes a navy blazer.

But I keep my shirt tucked in, and my tie knot snug.

J
post #26238 of 33197
Question, what is a quarter brogue cap toe derby suitable to wear with?

Less formal suits, and more formal jacket/trouser combinations?

J
post #26239 of 33197
Follow up to the above, can someone quickly explain the difference between quarter, half, and full brogues?
post #26240 of 33197
Does anyone have knowledge of Mr. Brown by Duckie Brown suits? Specifically quality/construction, but thoughts on sizing, cut, aesthetics are welcome.
post #26241 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

Even if one's work place required a tie?
Back in the olden days, when many offices still expected employees above a certain level to wear ties (well, at least male employees, but prior to the 1970's, that often meant pretty much anyone in the office who wasn't a secretary), one would be expected to wear a tie "properly." If you showed up at work with your collar button undone and your tie loosened, you'd likely be told to button your collar button and to fix your tie.

And no, you couldn't answer that the office dress code only says that you have to wear a tie, and you're wearing one, so technically you're in compliance and can't be forced to button the collar and cinch up the knot. Well, you could answer that way, but you'd likely be out of a job very shortly thereafter.

So are you asking whether the poster boy for youthful rebellion could put in his 9 hours at the office, then unbutton his collar button and loosen his tie on the subway ride home? Because sure, he could, but it wouldn't say to the world, "I represent youthful rebellion," so much as it would say to the world, "I've just worked a long day, and am tired, and am undoing my collar button and loosening my tie, so as to be more comfortable on the ride home." And maybe a few of the more conservative men (and women) seeing this would privately disapprove of his slovenly appearance. But nobody would think "youthful rebellion."

Do bear in mind that the mores and attitudes of the time placed great emphasis at least the outward appearance of conformity - most especially in the workplace, for white collar employees. The youthful rebel who wanted to show the world that he didn't buy into the company line, was risking unemployment, often along with a non-trivial degree of social ostracism.
post #26242 of 33197

^^ That's more or less what I would have thought, but, since I wasn't there, figured I should ask someone who was.

post #26243 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

@dapperdoctor fistbump.gif Windsor wearers unite!
+1000 icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif
post #26244 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by J011yroger View Post

...and may untuck my shirt at that point..

Barbarian!
post #26245 of 33197
I've been called worse.

J
post #26246 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

Follow up to the above, can someone quickly explain the difference between quarter, half, and full brogues?

Full brogue = wing tip
A half brogue is a cap toe shoe with a medallion on the toe cap (like AE Strand)
A quarter brogue is a punch cap with broging around the lace area as well, and possibly on the back of the shoe. I believe the C&J Westbourne is a quarter brogue, though I've seen it classified as an Adelaide. I'm not clear what the difference is or if the categories overlap at all.
post #26247 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by RyanM View Post

The terms balmoral and oxford are used synonymously, referring to closd laced dress shoes. I think one word is more commonly British and the other American (not sure which).

However, there is an older, more specific use of the term balmoral, to refer to an oxford with a side seam running across to the back of the shoe, also called a galosh (which is different than the other common use of the term galosh, which refers to rubber overshoes like Swims).

Here's an example of a balmoral/galosh oxford:

Fantastic colors and BEAUTIFUL shoes
post #26248 of 33197

Any recommendations for a mid-weight dark grey (not charcoal) suiting fabric? It could be solid or with a subtle pattern.

post #26249 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post


Full brogue = wing tip
A half brogue is a cap toe shoe with a medallion on the toe cap (like AE Strand)
A quarter brogue is a punch cap with broging around the lace area as well, and possibly on the back of the shoe. I believe the C&J Westbourne is a quarter brogue, though I've seen it classified as an Adelaide. I'm not clear what the difference is or if the categories overlap at all.


As far as I know, an adelaide can be a quarter brogue, half brogue, sometimes a full brogue, and theoretically a captoe or plain toe.

 

Functionally, I find it useful to think of a shoe which is a half-brogue minus the medallion as a quarter brogue, and to think of a captoe with a line of broguing at the edge of the cap as a punch cap, but I don't know if that's 100% correct.

post #26250 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Gianni Cerutti View Post

Fantastic colors and BEAUTIFUL shoes

I took the pic from this thread, after a quick google images search for an example,
http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/forum/showthread.php?58085-G-J-Cleverley-Bespoke-Shoe-Pictures
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