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post #26131 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kugelblitz View Post
 

Hello all,

I like the forum a lot.  I have learned a lot lurking here the past six months.  It's nice to know more than the salesmen at the mall.

 

Question:

Some of the buttons on my sportcoats are coming loose.  It seems like I will have to fix them soon.  I want to sew them back on myself.  I checked out a couple of DIY's on the internet and the process seems simple.  However, if I do it myself the thread will now be visible on the inside of the jacket because I will punch all the way through both layers of fabric.  Currently the buttons are sewn through only the outer layer of cloth and are not visible from the back. 

 

I don't have a problem personally with the thread showing from the back, I just want to make sure I am not unintentionally making some sort of epic sartorial blunder before I proceed.  Thanks for any help.  You guys are great.

 

Edit:

Almost forgot, what about this notion of applying clear nail polish or similar to the thread on buttons to improve longevity.  Yay or nay?

 

The nail polish sounds, to me, like it has more potential to do damage, and, for the sake of button thread, I wouldn't risk it.  My mom, who is a trained seamstress, taught me a trick for spacing your button from the coat - use a matchstick between the button, and coat, and that should give you just the right length of shank.

post #26132 of 33197
What exactly are moleskin trousers. What sets them apart from say chinos?
post #26133 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post
 

 

Great post - I'm also enlightened by the apparent specific differences between "blucher" and "derby" of which I was hitherto entirely ignorant.  I'm wondering where "gibson" fits into that?  

 

On your second point, I think I also needed to be corrected: when I think of a tassel loafer, I'm thinking of the suede ones I wear as very relaxed casual shoes.  But I think perhaps your, Ryan's and the OP's mental picture (the lawyer reference etc.) is rather different: the highly-polished very Italian and "dressy" variety.  I have seen these a lot worn with suits by elegant southern-European businessmen, and Americans too.  Personally I don't think even these are quite "business" enough to wear with a suit, but it's certainly an established look for many.


Thank you. The blucher/derby thing was only brought to my attention relatively recently -- it's in Roetzel, as far as I recall, but glossed over a tiny bit.

 

I have to admit, I'm really unclear as to where "gibson" fits.

 

When I think of the tassel loafer I see worn with a suit, I see this one:

 

http://www.brooksbrothers.com/Cordovan-Tassel-Loafers/033H,default,pd.html?dwvar_033H_Color=BURG&contentpos=73

 

But I have to admit, it's a regionalism.

 

EDIT: RTC, moleskin is very thick brushed cotton twill. It's fantastic stuff.

post #26134 of 33197
How easy is it for a tailor to let the seat out a suit and what kind of cost am I looking at? I have a couple of Brooks 1818 Fitzgeralds that just are a little too tight for me not to live in perpetual fear of a blowout.
post #26135 of 33197
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post #26136 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

What exactly are moleskin trousers. What sets them apart from say chinos?

Moleskin is a thick, brushed cotton. Very distinct from chinos. It has a velvet-y (without the sheen) or suede look and feel. I have a pair of camel moleskins from Howard Yount and find them to be a great cold weather alternative to corduroys.
post #26137 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post

J,

1. In American English, a shoe with laces is an oxford. A shoe with closed laces is a balmoral, and a shoe with open laces is a blucher. The UK usage I tend to see (this is basically online) often calls any shoe with closed laces an oxford and any shoe with open laces a derby. Those are nicer words, but they're still generalizations.


  This is accurate, to the best of my knowledge. (Click to show)
Oxford:


Balmoral (AKA "galosh oxford"):



Derby:


Blucher:

2. As a very square American, I think tassel loafers are the dressiest loafer, and the best suited to wearing with a suit or blazer.In the American canon, they're most at home with a navy blazer and gray flannels -- that slightly odd in-between level of formality.

Great, that makes a lot of sense. So if I must specify a shoe with closed laces the only term is balmoral, which 99.8% of the population will never have heard.

And yea, I was talking about the highly polished cordovan/tan/chocolate/black tassel loafers.

Thanks much for the clarifications.

J
post #26138 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Troilus View Post

How easy is it for a tailor to let the seat out a suit and what kind of cost am I looking at? I have a couple of Brooks 1818 Fitzgeralds that just are a little too tight for me not to live in perpetual fear of a blowout.

Pretty basic alteration unless you need some major letting out of material. I had a pair of HY pants hemmed along with a minor seat adjustment and my guy charged like 20 bucks combined.
post #26139 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by reidrothchild View Post


Moleskin is a thick, brushed cotton. Very distinct from chinos. It has a velvet-y (without the sheen) or suede look and feel. I have a pair of camel moleskins from Howard Yount and find them to be a great cold weather alternative to corduroys.


Ah okay. So cold weather. Got it.

post #26140 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

What exactly are moleskin trousers. What sets them apart from say chinos?

reidrothchild gave you your answer, but NOBD has great closeup pictures in this thread, where you can see the texture up close.
post #26141 of 33197

Thanks guys! I have like 4 pairs of cords, so I'll keep a look out at the turn of the season to pick up some for next winter!

post #26142 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by TM79 View Post

Pretty basic alteration unless you need some major letting out of material. I had a pair of HY pants hemmed along with a minor seat adjustment and my guy charged like 20 bucks combined.

Thanks--that's what I hoped. I don't think it's vital, just want a little breathing room.
post #26143 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPM1 View Post
 

Any idea what shoes these are?

 

 

 

 

Also, how casual could you go with these?

 

They finally arrived today. I am still not entirely sure where they were made but here's an image of the sole:

 

post #26144 of 33197

^^ If they were made in England it would be on the inside of the shoe. 

post #26145 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by gringodaddy View Post
 

^^ If they were made in England it would be on the inside of the shoe. 

 

Edit:

 

They are probably not made in England.


Edited by RPM1 - 1/28/14 at 4:45pm
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