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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 1710

post #25636 of 32487
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post #25637 of 32487
Re raincoat (from several pages earlier):

This looks solid, as something that could work over a suit and over something more casual (not sure about Bonobos construction, though):


link: http://www.bonobos.com/navy-trench-coats-for-men-shamus
post #25638 of 32487
Anybody know who makes Oliver Spencer shoes? Thanks
post #25639 of 32487

Looking to do some research for a (first) good quality watch. Are there good introductory articles I should read before just researching through watch forums? - for example were I to ask this for shoes, I'd need explained things like terminology, construction, lasts, styles their formalities, etc. A basic run-down of brands and their idiosyncrasies would be great too.

Thanks!

post #25640 of 32487
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezentius View Post
 

Looking to do some research for a (first) good quality watch. Are there good introductory articles I should read before just researching through watch forums? - for example were I to ask this for shoes, I'd need explained things like terminology, construction, lasts, styles their formalities, etc. A basic run-down of brands and their idiosyncrasies would be great too.

Thanks!

 

In my opinion, this cannot and should not be answered here as a quick question. The watch world is so diverse and subjective, there's no easy answer. We don't know your budget, personal preferences, what you're looking to get out of a watch, on which occasions you'll wear the watch etc. etc. 

Good quality can mean an $100.000 complicated hand wound watch with an in house movement for one person, where it means a $1000 ETA movement automatic for another person.

post #25641 of 32487
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chopper88 View Post
 

 

In my opinion, this cannot and should not be answered here as a quick question. The watch world is so diverse and subjective, there's no easy answer. We don't know your budget, personal preferences, what you're looking to get out of a watch, on which occasions you'll wear the watch etc. etc. 

Good quality can mean an $100.000 complicated hand wound watch with an in house movement for one person, where it means a $1000 ETA movement automatic for another person.


Looking more for general info articles about stuff I need to take into consideration rather than specific recommendations - as it stands right now even I don't really know what I want, because I have no idea about the things which are out there. 

post #25642 of 32487
Quote:
Originally Posted by mezentius View Post
 


Looking more for general info articles about stuff I need to take into consideration rather than specific recommendations - as it stands right now even I don't really know what I want, because I have no idea about the things which are out there. 

 

I get your point, and already feared my answer wouldn't be too clear.

What I tried to do, is warn you of the 'good quality' thing and about what you are going to find and read. This also relates to general research in my opinion. You can learn about how watches work internally, but still the quality of how two different watches implement one function is subjective. Of course you can see it like the example you mentioned about shoes, there are some common factors, like complications, you can read about what certain complications and their variations do. But the thing is, what you want is going to constantly change, depending on how much affinity you're going to develop for watches. When looking at watches not interested in their internals, you'll like a whole other set of watches as when you'll value the craftsmanship of the movement inside.

 

The main thing to take in consideration is your budget. It feels as if you know absolutely nothing about watches? If this is true, I'd suggest you start reading about complications and watch sizes, and when it's appropriate to wear them. Then I'd set a budget, see which watches reside in this budget and select a few to research. Then compare them in detail, read a lot about them, read on their movements and compare them to much more and much less expensive movements with the same complications (if any) and try to see why those other watches are priced this way. If you're really interested in this, you'll learn to recognise quality. Also, try to learn about the costs that come with owning a high end watch, servicing every 3-5 years, the price of straps and bracelets etc. When you've done a lot of reading, you'll notice your preference is going to shift in a certain direction, only then it's time to really start searching for what you want.

 

Unfortunately, my experience is also that you can do all the research you want, but some watches just don't work for some people in real life. I think a common problem is watch sizes, a lot of people are really put off by how small/big and especially how high a watch can be when handling it in the metal. Don't just look at faces and flat pictures.

post #25643 of 32487
Mezentius - you might be better off looking through one of the dedicated watch forums like time zone. I'm sure there's tonnes of reading material over there to get you started.
post #25644 of 32487

What's your price range when you say good quality? In my books Seiko are good at like 200-800~, but many go for higher.

post #25645 of 32487
Quote:
Originally Posted by JezeC View Post
 

Anybody knows why East dane considers 8UK - 8.5US in shoe sizes? Typically isn't it one full size larger? Look into its sizing chart. 

 

http://www.eastdane.com/archie-kudy-wax-wingtip-white/vp/v=1/1571030261.htm?folderID=19206&colorId=12966

 

There are two reasons: one is that the UK sizes tend to refer to the expected size of the foot, whereas the US size refers to the size of the shoe with a little "wiggle room", although this varies greatly by last and manufacturer.  The other is that many high end English makers use narrower than average lasts as their "medium" width - Edward Green, John Lobb, Gaziano & Girling, Crockett & Jones all use "E" as their standard, whereas other makers consider "E" narrow: Church's, Cheaney, Alfred Sargeant, Grenson, Barker, Loake and others use "F" as medium.  This is of course doubly confusing as "E" means wide to Americans.

 

I wear a UK 9.5 F (medium) in most English shoes, and a G (wide) in some of Church's and Cheaney's lasts.  I also take "F", which is their "wide", in Crockett & Jones and Edward Green.  I wear a steady 10E in all Allen Edmonds.  I therefore take a slightly wider fitting in both English and American sizes, with a half size difference.  Of course, I could probably wear an American 10.5 D as well as a 10E, but by the same token, were I to choose a narrow shoe like a Edward Green "E" fitting, I'd have to go up to a UK 10 as well.  Same difference.

 

P.S.  I recently bought a Grenson boot from East Dane, sized UK 9.5.  According to Grenson, this is actually in their "G" fitting as standard, i.e. a rather wider last anyway, presumably to accommodate thicker socks to match the heavy country style.  I find it accordingly more generous than a 10E in Allen Edmonds, but doubt I could size down.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by mezentius View Post
 


Looking more for general info articles about stuff I need to take into consideration rather than specific recommendations - as it stands right now even I don't really know what I want, because I have no idea about the things which are out there. 

 

Read "The Watch Appreciation Thread" on this forum.  It will both educate you and ruin your life.  Discussion of cheaper watches is perfectly permissible (and relatively frequent).  But seriously, this stuff is crack.

post #25646 of 32487
You should check out the "TWAT" (The Watch Appreciation Thread) thread and ask there.
post #25647 of 32487
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

There are two reasons: one is that the UK sizes tend to refer to the expected size of the foot, whereas the US size refers to the size of the shoe with a little "wiggle room", although this varies greatly by last and manufacturer.  The other is that many high end English makers use narrower than average lasts as their "medium" width - Edward Green, John Lobb, Gaziano & Girling, Crockett & Jones all use "E" as their standard, whereas other makers consider "E" narrow: Church's, Cheaney, Alfred Sargeant, Grenson, Barker, Loake and others use "F" as medium.  This is of course doubly confusing as "E" means wide to Americans.

I wear a UK 9.5 F (medium) in most English shoes, and a G (wide) in some of Church's and Cheaney's lasts.  I also take "F", which is their "wide", in Crockett & Jones and Edward Green.  I wear a steady 10E in all Allen Edmonds.  I therefore take a slightly wider fitting in both English and American sizes, with a half size difference.  Of course, I could probably wear an American 10.5 D as well as a 10E, but by the same token, were I to choose a narrow shoe like a Edward Green "E" fitting, I'd have to go up to a UK 10 as well.  Same difference.

P.S.  I recently bought a Grenson boot from East Dane, sized UK 9.5.  According to Grenson, this is actually in their "G" fitting as standard, i.e. a rather wider last anyway, presumably to accommodate thicker socks to match the heavy country style.  I find it accordingly more generous than a 10E in Allen Edmonds, but doubt I could size down.


Read "The Watch Appreciation Thread" on this forum.  It will both educate you and ruin your life.  Discussion of cheaper watches is perfectly permissible (and relatively frequent).  But seriously, this stuff is crack.

So, basically, don't buy English shoes without trying them on first.

Excellent post, btw. Very useful information.
post #25648 of 32487

Or at least asking about a specific pair first.  But in general, I think the half size difference is usually a closer guess than the full size, especially with the higher-end stuff.

post #25649 of 32487

Don't know if this gooes here... but where I can buy solid henleys? Around here there are practically unexistant. :confused:

post #25650 of 32487
Quote:
Originally Posted by Isolation View Post
 

What's your price range when you say good quality? In my books Seiko are good at like 200-800~, but many go for higher.

 

In that range, I'd go used. The best Seiko's cost north of 1K.

 

I would, however, recommend the Orange/black monster in that price range. They can be had fairly inexpensively as far as good watches are concerned. Cheaper used as well.

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