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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 1680

post #25186 of 33081

Hi, I have a 'Quick Question'.

 

The jacket I'm wearing below is a 44L Samuelsohn with measurments of:

Shoulder seem to seem: 19.5"

Sleeve seem at shoulder to bottom of cuff:25.5"

Chest: 23"

Waist: 22"

Length from the bottom of the collar: 31.5"

 

I'm looking at a Canali 46L on eBay with measurements of:

  • Shoulder: 20" (shoulder seam to shoulder seam)
  • Chest: 24" (armpit to armpit)
  • Waist: 22.75" (2nd button from the bottom)
  • Sleeve: 24.75" (shoulder to sleeve
  • Extra Sleeve Fabric: 1.25"
  • Length: 33.5" (bottom of collar to bottom hem)

I'm just wondering if anyone would have an educated guess as whether the measurements of the new jacket sound like they'd add up to something that a tailor could get to fit me reasonably well? The length would be my biggest concern.

 

 

 

As Always, Thank You

-Bill

post #25187 of 33081

I would say leave it.  Buying jackets online is a real lottery.  Two things are a problem: if the shoulders and chest are too big, they're hard to adjust, although in this case maybe just a tiny bit.  But if it's two inches too long, the pockets and button stance will look odd when it's shortened.

 

Pass, wait for one your size!  And do a quick search on SF for "44R" or something: we're about the same size and I've seen some beauties on here, both in the buy and sell and eBay links, that look more promising for you.

post #25188 of 33081

At a half inch difference I probably wouldn't even touch the shoulders. I wasn't sure if the chest and waist adjust would be considered good ol' "waist suppression". For length, especially as a slightly tall guy I wondered if I could get away with shortening the jacket by an inch and wearing a jacket that would then be an inch longer than what's in the pic... but maybe not eh'?

post #25189 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post
 

 

Oy. I was dead set on wearing a bow tie. Let me see what I can come up with...


I have three suits: Grey, Black, and Khaki. I have a navy suit as well, but the pants are at the tailor so it's out of the question for now.


I'll go with the grey suit and wear the navy vest. If it looks off, I'll take off the vest. Still debating the tie, but I was really hoping to wear a bow tie. I have a black patterned bow tie. I might have to try that. My 'date' is wearing a red dress. Hence the red bow tie. Must rethink all of this.

 

How dark is the grey?  I'll be blasted for it, but if it's lighter than charcoal, black is more appropriate for black tie optional.  Even if it is charcoal, I still think black is better.  From an etiquette standpoint, it's the closest thing you have to what the host/hostess wants (Black Tie), and as long as you wear it with a four in hand tie (black, or midnight) it will be clear you are wearing a suit, and also clear you are doing your best to honour the dress code.  This is the most appropriate, respectful course of action. If this is likely to happen again, eBay, consignment stores, and savvyrow.co.uk are your friends for acquiring an inexpensive Tux.  Mine (jacket and pants) was $140.  One I was looking at today in a consignment store, with some visible damage on the chest, was $65 but effing beautiful everywhere else.  They've had it over a year and I'm going to try to haggle them down next week, due to the damage, and wear it to less formal events, and ones where I might expect drinks to be spilled.  It's double breasted, so suited to more informal settings anyway.  But I digress!

 

Honestly, if it truly is BTO, wear the black suit.  I said it!  SF gods, strike me down if you must!

post #25190 of 33081
^^ I second that emotion.

Now for my question: What's the survival rate on letting down jacket bodies? Do they always come out awful?


J
post #25191 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by rangen930 View Post

They broke-in in a matter of a couple of weeks and at the moment they feel perfect and they look (in my humble) pretty cool. I do wear them a lot.

Define "a lot". Do you always let them rest at least two days between wears?
post #25192 of 33081

What are the best bespoke shoe threads and best bespoke suit threads? Any sites you guys recommend besides SF?

post #25193 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ImTheGroom View Post

How dark is the grey?  I'll be blasted for it, but if it's lighter than charcoal, black is more appropriate for black tie optional.  Even if it is charcoal, I still think black is better.  From an etiquette standpoint, it's the closest thing you have to what the host/hostess wants (Black Tie), and as long as you wear it with a four in hand tie (black, or midnight) it will be clear you are wearing a suit, and also clear you are doing your best to honour the dress code.  This is the most appropriate, respectful course of action. If this is likely to happen again, eBay, consignment stores, and savvyrow.co.uk are your friends for acquiring an inexpensive Tux.  Mine (jacket and pants) was $140.  One I was looking at today in a consignment store, with some visible damage on the chest, was $65 but effing beautiful everywhere else.  They've had it over a year and I'm going to try to haggle them down next week, due to the damage, and wear it to less formal events, and ones where I might expect drinks to be spilled.  It's double breasted, so suited to more informal settings anyway.  But I digress!

Honestly, if it truly is BTO, wear the black suit.  I said it!  SF gods, strike me down if you must!

Okay cool. The black suit is a Nehru collar though. That's the only hold up.
post #25194 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by Valire View Post

What are the best bespoke shoe threads and best bespoke suit threads? Any sites you guys recommend besides SF?

Here are a few threads from SF for starters -

The ultimate hardcore shoe porn thread - bespoke only

The anderson & sheppard expatriates thread

my visit to napoli su misura

Unfunded liabilities aka the cloth thread

There are many more.
post #25195 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

Okay cool. The black suit is a Nehru collar though. That's the only hold up.

Well, That really comes down to weather you want to wear a Nehru collar, I guess. I'm inclined to say don't, but then I'd have been inclined to sy don't buy it, also. It will certainly stand out; How dark is the grey?

Edit: whether*
Edited by ImTheGroom - 12/14/13 at 9:49pm
post #25196 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

The black suit is a Nehru collar though. That's the only hold up.
"So other than that, Mrs. Lincoln, how did you enjoy the play?"
post #25197 of 33081

Actually I'm going to disagree with my esteemed colleagues for once: 

 

It's black tie, or it's not.  Wearing something "as close to black tie" as possible, without it actually being black tie, is half-assed.  Wear black tie, or wear a lounge suit.  And if it's a lounge suit, charcoal or navy is ideal for an evening event, with a neat navy or burgundy tie respectively, light blue or white shirt and a clean white PS.  Safe.  A smart lounge suit.  But trying to be a bit black tie by wearing a black suit with a long black tie, is off.  In itself, it's a Blues Brothers/Ska revival thing, and it is definitely not the way to go!

 

But, the nehru collar is brilliant.  RTC is Indian by ethnicity, and doesn't have black tie to hand.  So he's going a version of "national dress". OK, not exactly.  But he's an Indian guy in an Indian suit, looking super clean and minimalist.  I think that works better than even a SF-approved lounge suit, let alone a half-black-tie lounge suit would.  Go Indian, and go proud.

 

A story for you: nine years ago I was visiting a friend for a couple of days in New Delhi.  First time ever in India, just for a weekend.  I am not Indian.  I am possibly the whitest man on Earth (even though I'm black on the inside and have Japanese feet).  Anyway, on arrival, my even whiter (i.e. Scottish) friend asks me if I brought a dinner suit.  We're going to dinner that night at the US Ambassador's residence for some kind of US Marine Corps bicentennial or something or other celebration, dress code is black tie.  He didn't tell me.  Can I get a dinner suit made in a day, like I could in, say, Hong Kong?  No chance.  Can I find a cheap one off the peg that fits.  Debatable.  Brainwave.  Mimo buys some black shoes, and a cream colour Nehru-style suit.  It was one of only three such outfits among several hundred guests, the only light coloured one, and certainly the only one being worn by a non-Indian.  But it was universally agreed to be an awesome look, because I was happy and confident that it looked awesome.  

 

Moral of the story: if you have to be a bit different, be a lot different and embrace it.  Wearing something that says you have some balls, is better than wearing an apology, by a long way.

 

P.S. Michael, that last comment made me LOL. :)


Edited by mimo - 12/14/13 at 1:32pm
post #25198 of 33081
I'm looking for a new wallet -- one that I can use both at work (business casual) and home (with jeans). My preference is for a thin bifold. Budget's about $40.

Thoughts about getting one of these?: http://www.indiegogo.com/projects/the-articulate-wallet-2-0-a-minimalist-rfid-blocking-patent-pending-wallet

I'm willing to be patient with the whole kickstarter thing, and dig the look. Thoughts? Got a favorite? I'm leaning towards one of the brown leather combo ones, although some of the color ones look slick also (pics below).

post #25199 of 33081

I'd go with something plainer myself, but of those maybe the top one.  Actually the navy one second from bottom is kind of fun. I just think the novelty will wear off rather fast.  Anyway, if you like it, buy it.  And if not, buy another one.  Don't buy number two though, it's horrible.

 

Those are my views if you're actually seriously asking the world which reasonably-priced leather wallet you should buy.  If, on the other hand, your 37 posts (that I can't be bothered to check) are all in different threads promoting a kickstarter project for a wallet with a stripe on it, then do feel free to fuck off.

 

In the mean time, you have the benefit of the doubt, and I hope you get something you like. :)

post #25200 of 33081
I promise, I'm not a Kickstarter promoter or in any way affiliated with the above (or any other) project smile.gif I do think the top (brown w/ beige) and the dark blue ones are my favs now. The bright blue one looked neat on their website but is horrendous as posted above.

Got any other relatively cheap wallet suggestions?
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