or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 1651

post #24751 of 33019
The vast majority of the British tailors (and RTW) use an extended shoulder, more often than not with slight roping. The British examples I have are cut like that and if it didn't have the padding associated with the British style, you're right, it would look too big. However, it doesn't and serves merely to promote the much sought after "V" shape in tailoring.

I'm very slightly built as I cycle about 250-300km a week. Now I love Italian soft tailoring but one lesson that should be learnt very quickly on this forum by all is that you cannot always wear what you love, you have to wear what suits you and enhances your body shape. If I was wearing a very soft Italian style garment you would see my torso for what it is, i.e. hardly any shoulder mass and not much of a drop between chest and waist. What the British style does for me, however, by extending the shoulders slightly then building up the chest is mask that very well indeed.

I don't personally determine the correct amount of extension, a job best left to others...

A few examples of my own -


Edward Sexton:

Picture1-7.png
Picture2-2.png

Kilgour:

ScreenShot2013-11-23at165426.png

New & Lingwood MTM:

ScreenShot2013-11-23at164831.png

Prorsum:

ScreenShot2013-11-23at164809.png
post #24752 of 33019
Quote:
Originally Posted by J011yroger View Post

Which black and white tie would you get first, houndstooth, or shepherd check?

Any reason or just personal preference?

J

I'll bite.  As much as I love houndstooth it can be a bit dizzying in black and white and on a tie like that.  Personal preference on this one would be shepherd check.  

post #24753 of 33019

Do any of you guys have any suggestions for some warmer/thicker dress pants?

post #24754 of 33019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Ich_Dien View Post

The vast majority of the British tailors (and RTW) use an extended shoulder, more often than not with slight roping. The British examples I have are cut like that and if it didn't have the padding associated with the British style, you're right, it would look too big. However, it doesn't and serves merely to promote the much sought after "V" shape in tailoring.

I'm very slightly built as I cycle about 250-300km a week. Now I love Italian soft tailoring but one lesson that should be learnt very quickly on this forum by all is that you cannot always wear what you love, you have to wear what suits you and enhances your body shape. If I was wearing a very soft Italian style garment you would see my torso for what it is, i.e. hardly any shoulder mass and not much of a drop between chest and waist. What the British style does for me, however, by extending the shoulders slightly then building up the chest is mask that very well indeed.

I don't personally determine the correct amount of extension, a job best left to others...

A few examples of my own -

 

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply, and yea, I am a tennis player, and built like the prototypical one, so I understand about not being able to wear something. Zenga suits in particular look like hell on me. Beautiful on the rack, and then I put the thing on, and I look like a used car salesman.

 

I always felt that with roped shoulders that the torso section of the jacket should end in the same place as with a natural shoulder, and then the roped sleeve kind of bolstered the silouette a bit. Next time I get a rainy weekend that I try to kill at the mall, I will have to try on a bunch of jackets and be a bit more open minded.

 

J

post #24755 of 33019
Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post
 

I'll bite.  As much as I love houndstooth it can be a bit dizzying in black and white and on a tie like that.  Personal preference on this one would be shepherd check.  

 

I am in the market for a shepherd check, but saw a nice houndstooth on someone, and thought it might be a good/different substitute. Given my unwillingness to pay full price for anything I will probably buy the first one I get a good deal on. 

 

I appreciate your opinion, and you kind of echoed my suspicion that the Shepherd would be a bit more useful.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by jungleroller View Post
 

Do any of you guys have any suggestions for some warmer/thicker dress pants?

 

I love the RL flannel pants, but there has to be a better value pair out there. I saw some Lord and Taylor house branded ones (Black and Brown maybe is the brand? I forget.) that weren't terrible, but didn't blow me away.

 

I love wearing cords in the fall/winter, but they are too casual for most things, tough to beat charcoal, and mid gray flannel.

 

J

post #24756 of 33019

Hello,

 

Would appreciate any help on this. I wear UK size 8 on the loake aldwych. Am contemplating ordering AE Mora and Broadstreet. Does anyone know what size would work best - 8.5 (on the US measurement which AE use) ? Or are there any differences I should be aware of ? I only ask as I tried using the sizing guide on the AE website and I seem to be 11.5 (which cant be right and I must be doing something wrong).

 

thanks

post #24757 of 33019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Staffer18283 View Post

Hello,

Would appreciate any help on this. I wear UK size 8 on the loake aldwych. Am contemplating ordering AE Mora and Broadstreet. Does anyone know what size would work best - 8.5 (on the US measurement which AE use) ? Or are there any differences I should be aware of ? I only ask as I tried using the sizing guide on the AE website and I seem to be 11.5 (which cant be right and I must be doing something wrong).

thanks

Make sure the sizing guide is printing full size and Acrobat isn't scaling it. Generally I think AE is UK +1 so I would bet you are a US 9. Different lasts fit differently but that's where I'd start anyway.
post #24758 of 33019
Guys, I have a question to ask.

Long story short, I bought a suit from Hackett last Friday with all of the alterations done in house. So far they have managed to screw up twice; first time (yesterday) was forget to send the trouser to the tailor for it to be tapered and the second time (today) I realise they haven't done anything to the waist at all.

Now would I be too evil/unethical to ask for a refund on the alterations charges for the trouser? I mean I honestly don't expect this to happen; especially for a retailer of this calibre and this is their flagship store by the way.

Thanks all.
post #24759 of 33019

repost: If you have a finished jacket with surgeons cuffs, is it possible to taper the sleeve so the cuff opening is smaller?

post #24760 of 33019

Just came back from the Burberry store. My friend who works there is offering me a 50% discount on whatever suit I purchase along with any additional tailoring being taken care of. I have two questions...

 

http://us.burberry.com/slim-fit-virgin-wool-silk-suit-p38691481

 

1. I will be using this suit for evening/formal events. Mind you, in my culture, we don't wear tuxedos to weddings, so this suit may also come in handy for those situations.

 

2. Burberry doesn't sell matching vests. If I choose to go 3 piece, any advice on what vest I should look for to ensure it doesn't look too off?

 

3. Can I get away with wearing this at work as well? I noticed it has some silk in it, giving it a bit of a shiny effect.

post #24761 of 33019
Quote:
Originally Posted by MMoon24 View Post

2. Burberry doesn't sell matching vests. If I choose to go 3 piece, any advice on what vest I should look for to ensure it doesn't look too off?

3. Can I get away with wearing this at work as well? I noticed it has some silk in it, giving it a bit of a shiny effect.

2. You cannot choose to go three piece. It will look off, especially with a distinctive fabric. A suit needs to be made of the exact same cloth, that's what makes it a suit. Close but not quite looks off, and is usually quite obvious. If you want a three piece suit, you have to buy a three piece suit. The suit you're looking at is not a three piece suit, and you can't make it into one.

3. Depends on your office, but I would bet yes- it's still a plain navy suit. If it's a conservative office, the skintightness will probably be more of an issue than the sheen.
post #24762 of 33019

REPOST - no one seemed to notice :(

 

Okay, so my Johnston and Murphy Aragon II tassel loafers just arrived, and I promised I'd post some pictures.  

 

What I'm trying to figure out is if these shoes are actually full-grain leather, as they are advertised on the website (http://www.johnstonmurphy.com/product.aspx?pid=65489&search=aragon).  

 

I don't think I've ever actually seen a full-grain shoe (and if I did then I didn't know) so bear with me..

 

They do look a bit shiny and plasticky (I don't know if they're supposed to look like this), but the leather certainly feels nicer and less "plasticky" than my other shoes - Clarks Chilton Lace - which I happen to know ARE corrected grain.  

 

The evidence:

 

 

 

 

 

 

AppleMark

 

If anyone has any general comments on whether the leather does appear to be full-grain, whether it is good quality leather or just whether the shoe is good in general, please reply.  Thank you.  

 

P.S.  I know you all want to bash J&M - but they were $99, come on!

post #24763 of 33019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oysters View Post
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

REPOST - no one seemed to notice :(

 

Okay, so my Johnston and Murphy Aragon II tassel loafers just arrived, and I promised I'd post some pictures.  

 

What I'm trying to figure out is if these shoes are actually full-grain leather, as they are advertised on the website (http://www.johnstonmurphy.com/product.aspx?pid=65489&search=aragon).  

 

I don't think I've ever actually seen a full-grain shoe (and if I did then I didn't know) so bear with me..

 

They do look a bit shiny and plasticky (I don't know if they're supposed to look like this), but the leather certainly feels nicer and less "plasticky" than my other shoes - Clarks Chilton Lace - which I happen to know ARE corrected grain.  

 

The evidence:

 

 

 

 

 

 

AppleMark

 

If anyone has any general comments on whether the leather does appear to be full-grain, whether it is good quality leather or just whether the shoe is good in general, please reply.  Thank you.  

 

P.S.  I know you all want to bash J&M - but they were $99, come on!

 

Those are corrected grain. As for style, it is not my taste. If you're happy with them, that's all that matters, however. 

post #24764 of 33019
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oysters View Post

REPOST - no one seemed to notice frown.gif
All right, since you keep asking for opinions...

The shoes look very much like corrected leather. I mean, they're not here in front of me, but from the pictures, and given the price, if I were a betting man I'd bet on them being corrected grain leather.

If a stray bit of advertising/marketing copy suggested otherwise, so be it. ("Oh, when we wrote 'premium, full-grain leather,' we meant that was what we started with, before treating, sanding, and buffing it, so as to give it a beautiful glossy luster. Oh, and that the insole uses leather. And, like, the guy writing the copy figured that 'full grain leather' was the same as 'corrected leather.' It might be that he's not 100% correct according to every opinion of the term, so when it comes time to review next season's website copy, I'll send the committee responsible an email, mentioning this. Thanks for your interest!") What? You've never come across an inaccurate or misleading claim in a product description on a website? Particularly involving details about which most people are oblivious?

Yeah, the shoes look rather cheap and plasticky to me. But what the heck - they were $99. Besides, other people's opinions on the merits of the shoes shouldn't matter all that much to you. If you like how the shoes look and how they fit, then be happy with them. There's no need to keep asking strangers to reassure you that your shoes are made of quality materials and are very nice.
post #24765 of 33019

I think, unless you're paying hundreds of dollars, it's not something to obsess about.  Leather quality varies a lot, and how it might be polished, coated or treated are complex variables among many complex variables.  I have "full grain" leather from Allen Edmonds that is, frankly, a bit shit.  But then they are also available often at $99 or thereabouts.

 

What is a bigger issue with these shoes is that they are fucking hideous. :)

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear)