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post #24526 of 30556
Quote:
Originally Posted by YRR92 View Post
 

It's kind of flat, and a bit boring with what else you had. I love a gray suit with a navy tie, or a navy jacket with black, but navy with gray tie doesn't interest me.


Fair enough. I have a jacket or two I think would pair better with those two ties.


In any event, I've now come to the conclusion that most of the jackets I own that I thrifted are a bit off (mostly a bit big). Luckily, they're not comically large so I can get away with wearing them and not look stupid. I also own 3 suits (2 regular and 1 round collar) that I bought OTR in India and then had altered by the tailors in store, so those fit pretty well.

New goal: every new item of clothing should be of SF approved fit quality!

post #24527 of 30556

How should I clean my silk dress hose?

post #24528 of 30556
Quote:
Originally Posted by ellsbebc View Post


I would dare say brown ties are more versatile. They pair well with both navy and grey suits, while a navy tie can sometimes be difficult to pair with navy suits (depending on the shades).

 

OK, I will not be put off by that factor. I have only two sutis, but they are navy and mid grey, so that should work well together.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post


I'm a big fan of brown ties. Very versatile and under-appreciated color. Both of those choices would be great.

 

Thanks for the input, appreciate it!

post #24529 of 30556
Well I went with the matching tie, also got a matching pocket square. Not the best combination together, but I like the color and material, so it'll be nice having a set.
post #24530 of 30556
Quote:
Originally Posted by plainnerd View Post

Well I went with the matching tie, also got a matching pocket square. Not the best combination together, but I like the color and material, so it'll be nice having a set.

 

Try not to wear the tie and matching PS together.

post #24531 of 30556
Yeah not a fan of that look, he just offered to make a nice little wool square for me for free, so why the hell not?
post #24532 of 30556
After letting out linen/wool trousers, the original holes still show next to the new seam. It's quite unsightly, so I was wondering if there's any way to close/get rid of those little holes?
post #24533 of 30556
Quote:
Originally Posted by Monkeyface View Post

After letting out linen/wool trousers, the original holes still show next to the new seam. It's quite unsightly, so I was wondering if there's any way to close/get rid of those little holes?

 

As long as the thread's not broken, you can try and tease the holes shut by grabbing the fabric a ways from the holes and stretching it diagonally back and forth.  The more tension held when shifting from diagonal to diagonal, the more likely the fibres will shift back into place.  Works great with cottons and linens but not so much with wools because the wools tend to stretch instead of shifting.  Vary the distance and intensity of the stretching and try not to bag out the wool.

 

The other way you could go about it is meticulously try and move the threads back into place by pushing and pulling them with a small pin, but this is not an economical use of your time.

post #24534 of 30556

A seamstress quoted me like 16 bucks to take in the sides of a sportcoat. I'm thinking it's worth a shot if it helps for thrifted blazers, no?

post #24535 of 30556

I've always had issues telling corrected grain from full grain.  

 

I just received my Johnston and Murphy Aragon II in Burgundy (http://www.johnstonmurphy.com/product.aspx?c=624&pid=35455&VID=65489), but they were too big so I sent them in for a refund (silly me; now I realize I should have taken pictures).  

 

Anyway, I've never really seen a proper pair of full grain dress shoes.  On that website, it actually says "Premium full-grain leather" - the Aragon II is the only J&M shoe that actually says "full grain" in the description.  Now, they did look shiny but nothing like my Clarks Chilton Lace (http://www.clarks.co.uk/p/20351174), which I know for a fact are corrected grain, and nothing like the J&M Corbett II (now discontinued) - I have seen those in person and they looked much more plasticky and felt much harder and less flexible to the touch.  The leather did have variation in color but I couldn't really see or feel pores; it felt very flat and very smooth (too smooth).  

 

Now, I have no idea what a full grain shoe looks like; I'm going by pictures and info I've read on here.  This shoe felt much nicer than the Corbett II or my Clarks, even if it is corrected grain.  

 

More suspicious is the fact that J&M have much more expensive shoes but this cheap $99 shoe is the only one with this supposed "full-grain" leather.  

 

Based on the above information, are they CP and if they are should I really care if it's a nice shoe?  Thanks.

post #24536 of 30556
Quote:
Originally Posted by ridethecliche View Post

A seamstress quoted me like 16 bucks to take in the sides of a sportcoat. I'm thinking it's worth a shot if it helps for thrifted blazers, no?

Of course. It's not even a discussion.
post #24537 of 30556
Quote:
Originally Posted by Oysters View Post
 

I've always had issues telling corrected grain from full grain.  

 

I just received my Johnston and Murphy Aragon II in Burgundy (http://www.johnstonmurphy.com/product.aspx?c=624&pid=35455&VID=65489), but they were too big so I sent them in for a refund (silly me; now I realize I should have taken pictures).  

 

Anyway, I've never really seen a proper pair of full grain dress shoes.  On that website, it actually says "Premium full-grain leather" - the Aragon II is the only J&M shoe that actually says "full grain" in the description.  Now, they did look shiny but nothing like my Clarks Chilton Lace (http://www.clarks.co.uk/p/20351174), which I know for a fact are corrected grain, and nothing like the J&M Corbett II (now discontinued) - I have seen those in person and they looked much more plasticky and felt much harder and less flexible to the touch.  The leather did have variation in color but I couldn't really see or feel pores; it felt very flat and very smooth (too smooth).  

 

Now, I have no idea what a full grain shoe looks like; I'm going by pictures and info I've read on here.  This shoe felt much nicer than the Corbett II or my Clarks, even if it is corrected grain.  

 

More suspicious is the fact that J&M have much more expensive shoes but this cheap $99 shoe is the only one with this supposed "full-grain" leather.  

 

Based on the above information, are they CP and if they are should I really care if it's a nice shoe?  Thanks.

http://www.styleforum.net/t/172227/full-grain-vs-top-grain-vs-corrected-grain-vs-pebble-grain-vs-shell-vs-etc

 

That link should help. As should this: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Leather


Corrected grain holds much more of a shine but feels plastic-y. Full grain is 'normal' calf leather.

I'm not good enough to evaluate based solely on the pictures, but if they're the right price for you and fit well and look good, then I'd go for it.

post #24538 of 30556
Quote:
Originally Posted by Veremund View Post


Of course. It's not even a discussion.

 

Haha, yeah. Couldn't find any reviews of the place so maybe I'll take a cheaper jacket there so I can have it fixed up and evaluate.

Found good reviews for a place near my apt so I'm going to give them a go for a jacket I like.

Definitely learning the importance of buying something that fits close, but is worth altering to fit better.

 

I have already learned so much here that I'm excited as fakkkk!

post #24539 of 30556

Should I wear a dark green velvet blazer with a velvet bowtie or a silk bowtie, and which color should work well with this blazer (combined with white crisp shirt, charcoal grey trousers, black.brown shoes)?

post #24540 of 30556
Quote:
Originally Posted by deadAngle View Post
 

 

As long as the thread's not broken, you can try and tease the holes shut by grabbing the fabric a ways from the holes and stretching it diagonally back and forth.  The more tension held when shifting from diagonal to diagonal, the more likely the fibres will shift back into place.  Works great with cottons and linens but not so much with wools because the wools tend to stretch instead of shifting.  Vary the distance and intensity of the stretching and try not to bag out the wool.

 

The other way you could go about it is meticulously try and move the threads back into place by pushing and pulling them with a small pin, but this is not an economical use of your time.

Thanks, the holes disappeared! The lines are still showing showing though, but I guess/hope the only way to get rid of those is to press the trousers.

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