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Ask A Question, Get An Answer... - Post All Quick Questions Here (Classic menswear) - Page 1598

post #23956 of 33081
You will never, never, not need a messenger bag.

I am a 31(?) year old auto mechanic, and I have about a dozen of them.

Buy the damn messenger bag, it will last your entire life, and you will be amazed how much you use it.

Later in life, buy more bags. Overnight duffles, carry-ons, shaving bags, real luggage, brief-cases...

Just buy good stuff, add them one at a time as you can, and they will last forever.

J
post #23957 of 33081
I'm trying to learn a little about fit. I've slimmed down recently and have been trying some slim-fitting shirts. To varying degrees, most of them seem to pull a little from the second-to-top button to about 2/3 down the shoulder. Here's the most exaggerated example that I have:



What aspect of the shirt (or of my body) causes this? Is it something that can be inexpensively tailored? Pictured is a Ralph Lauren slim fit.

Thanks in advance.
post #23958 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimanchower View Post

I'm trying to learn a little about fit. I've slimmed down recently and have been trying some slim-fitting shirts. To varying degrees, most of them seem to pull a little from the second-to-top button to about 2/3 down the shoulder. Here's the most exaggerated example that I have:



What aspect of the shirt (or of my body) causes this? Is it something that can be inexpensively tailored? Pictured is a Ralph Lauren slim fit.

Thanks in advance.
Too tight I think. Cut not good for u
Let's see what others also say about that
post #23959 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by jimanchower View Post

I'm trying to learn a little about fit. I've slimmed down recently and have been trying some slim-fitting shirts. To varying degrees, most of them seem to pull a little from the second-to-top button to about 2/3 down the shoulder. Here's the most exaggerated example that I have:



What aspect of the shirt (or of my body) causes this? Is it something that can be inexpensively tailored? Pictured is a Ralph Lauren slim fit.

Thanks in advance.

Looks to me like your shoulders are too broad for this shirt, which is causing the V wrinkle. Problem with many slim fit shirts is that the slimming is done primarily (or completely) by narrowing the entire torso (keeping more or less vertical sides). Many people who want a more shaped fit want a shirt that TAPERS more than standard (in a jacket we would call this a 'drop', as the difference between chest and waist measurements). The result is that when you find a shirt that fits the shoulders the waist is still too wide (can be corrected by a tailor) or that when you find a shirt that fits in the waist, the shoulders are too narrow (which really isn't reasonably fixable).

post #23960 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by SBear View Post

Looks to me like your shoulders are too broad for this shirt, which is causing the V wrinkle. Problem with many slim fit shirts is that the slimming is done primarily (or completely) by narrowing the entire torso (keeping more or less vertical sides). Many people who want a more shaped fit want a shirt that TAPERS more than standard (in a jacket we would call this a 'drop', as the difference between chest and waist measurements). The result is that when you find a shirt that fits the shoulders the waist is still too wide (can be corrected by a tailor) or that when you find a shirt that fits in the waist, the shoulders are too narrow (which really isn't reasonably fixable).

What is the approximate cost to have a shirt tapered? I have quite a few that are too blousey when tucked in, and I'm not sure if I should just buy slimmer ones, or bother having them altered.

J
post #23961 of 33081
Thanks SBear, that makes a lot of sense. You too, sparrow.
post #23962 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by J011yroger View Post

What is the approximate cost to have a shirt tapered? I have quite a few that are too blousey when tucked in, and I'm not sure if I should just buy slimmer ones, or bother having them altered.

J
Try darts should be cheaper
It's a stitch that tapers
post #23963 of 33081
Thanks!

J
post #23964 of 33081

If you get an MTM shirt is it a better idea to get darts made into the shirt by the tailor or have less fabric at the back? And if darts is the option, how do you specify the amount of cloth to taper?

post #23965 of 33081
Mtm wouldn't have darts
Darts are for slimming. Rack items
post #23966 of 33081
Quote:
Originally Posted by sparrow View Post

Mtm wouldn't have darts
Darts are for slimming. Rack items

 

OK, so that would mean I need to specify separate front and back measurements rather than the ordinary: chest, waist, bottom measurements I guess.

post #23967 of 33081
I would ask your tailor what they need
It would be weird to have differ t front back
post #23968 of 33081

some feedback? 

 

post #23969 of 33081

Overall, I think it looks pretty nice. Two minor quibbles:

 

1. I think I'd prefer the jacket sleeves just a bit longer.

2. Not sure about the buttons on the coat--seem a little big.

 

But again, solid effort overall!

post #23970 of 33081
I agree with loarbmhs; the jacket sleeves could stand to be just a little longer.

I don't agree with him with regard to the buttons. The jacket buttons don't seem freakishly large to me, although I accept that judging their precise size is difficult in a small picture. But in any case, it's a blazer. Blazer buttons are permitted - some might even argue, expected - to call more attention to themselves than are most other sport coat buttons, or certainly most suit coat buttons. I mean, they're routinely metallic and bear crests or other emblems, so clearly going unnoticed isn't the main objective.

As for the rest of it, while the jacket appears to be a more modern fit (I prefer a more traditional fit), it's certainly not freakishly short or tight, so good enough. The shirt looks okay, what little can be seen of it. The pants look a little more snug in the thigh than I'd prefer (but as I've already noted, I prefer more traditional fits). The color match between pants and jacket is okay.

Overall, not really an A+, but certainly a credible effort.
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