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post #23356 of 33197

Thanks for the feedback. I can see the incoherence with the sleeves and the length issue.  I always thought I was fairly standard, 5'10", 44" chest and 33" waist, but a 44R always seem too big and a 44S too small.  A 42 does't allow for movement.

 

I'll look for a different cut or higher drop value... and keep the hands out of the pockets :)

 

Many thanks

post #23357 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by kayhill View Post

I thought your concern was that the pants were flushing out too much? Not sure what that means exactly, but I'm guessing you'd like the pant legs to taper in as they come down to the hem?

A boot cut flairs out towards the bottom.

Yes, I'm unsure if they flair out too much. I've been told that slim all the way down is more of a trend, but I'm looking for more opinions. If I end up deciding to close it in a bit at the hem, how much would it cost? It's 14 inches all around right now. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks a lot.
post #23358 of 33197
Anyone recommend a good reasonably priced place for MTM suits in the Cambridge (UK) area?

...or a tailor?

Thank you
post #23359 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHT652 View Post

Hello... What colour shirt would best match this tie? Thinking of wearing it with navy blazer & khaki chinos but stuck on a shirt. Would plain light blue be too matchy? Thanks in advance.

Is this ok? Or should I go with a lighter shirt? Thanks
post #23360 of 33197
[[I mistakenly posted this as a standalone to the forum rather than here where it belongs, mods can you please delete that separate standalone thread?]] [Note: I am having difficulty with the SF text formatting across multiple browsers on my ancient system, and cannot get line breaks to appear, so apologies for the Wall o' Text below!] Greetings Gentlemen, I took an expensive Italian suit jacket into the tailor the other day for shortening. It seems that in order to get it short enough for a reasonably proper fit, he will have to remove the bottom button (of four) and the stitching for the faux buttonhole; he cannot say, however, if there will be traces of the faux hole left until after the stitching is removed (the fabric is a very light wool, but I am concerned that such traces may indeed remain, marring the appearance of an otherwise splendid jacket). There is also the matter of my unequal arm lengths (over 1/2" difference, apparently), but to factor this in if the alteration is being done at the sleeve bottom obviously complicates things enormously, as then there would be a rather obvious inequality of distance from the bottom button to the sleeve end between one arm and the other. (I should add that the tailor also mentioned simply removing all the buttons and their faux buttonholes, but again could not guarantee that marks would not be left...) The atmosphere at the tailor was rather tense, as I felt unsure of which way to proceed, and whenever I asked for his advice or suggestion, he would respond that he didn't know, that "*you* have to decide." When I asked what the response of other customers was to similar alterations, he said he didn't know, "they didn't tell me" (English is not his first language, and he does not seem to be an overly outgoing type, so I don't think he is too often engaging in feedback-seeking conversation with his English-speaking clientele). So I continued to ask questions and to silently consider my predicament, eventually him saying something along the lines of his losing money with the time all these back-and-forth considerations take. Still unsure of what to do, but at that point -- having already spent +-20 minutes in the shop -- I committed to plan A which was to make the arms equal lengths, with one button and faux buttonhole removed on each sleeve. The jacket is at the tailor's, pinned/chalked, to be worked on later this week. But... I am still concerned about those faux buttonholes leaving traces, the unequal arm length issue, and the tailor's seeming lack of interest in achieving the best possible outcome, throwing all decision-making responsibility onto me (I would think that someone who had decades of experience in a certain field would be able to offer observations on the optimal manner of proceeding, and indeed would be happy to do so). And although he did volunteer, unasked, to check my arm lengths and to make the sleeves unequal, he never suggested altering at the shoulder (which is also a job I would be concerned about, as this is a pinstripe jacket and I have had a bad experience in the past with a major alteration done to a pinstripe jacket where the pinstripes ended up noticeably asymmetrical between sides). So, given the above, what do I do? Let him proceed, and hope for the best? Head back there before he cuts away, and reclaim the jacket (giving him $10 for his wasted time) to further ponder my best course of action? And just how likely is it that the removed stitching of the faux buttonhole will be noticeable on this light wool jacket? (If it's likely not going to be noticeable, I would probably opt to simply have all the buttons and their faux holes removed and then have the sleeves shortened unequally at the bottom.) Have any of you had this done and regretted it? Were you ever able to wear the jacket again? Thanking you in advance for your replies, Dan
post #23361 of 33197
Does anyone have any experience with Ovadia and Sons sizing?

Looking at this item - http://www.gilt.com/brand/ovadia-sons/product/141260087-ovadia-sons-highlands-blackwatch-shooting-vest

and some trousers.

Any help greatly appreciated.
post #23362 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by JHT652 View Post

Is this ok? Or should I go with a lighter shirt? Thanks

Go with a white shirt. Let the tie get the attention.
post #23363 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielqtaylor View Post

Wall o' Text below! Dan

Don't worry about the faint shadow left over from the removed button. No one will see it, and you'll forget about it too.

Your sleeves should be the proper length for each arm. Human beings are not perfectly symmetrical, so our clothes shouldn't be either.
post #23364 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by hennree View Post

Anyone recommend a good reasonably priced place for MTM suits in the Cambridge (UK) area?

...or a tailor?

Thank you

What's your budget? Ede & Ravenscroft in Cambridge do MTM, starts at £900... Or there's always the train to london.
post #23365 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by becnal View Post


Don't worry about the faint shadow left over from the removed button. No one will see it, and you'll forget about it too.

Your sleeves should be the proper length for each arm. Human beings are not perfectly symmetrical, so our clothes shouldn't be either.

 

So there is absolutely no risk, then, in having all eight (4 x 2) buttons removed and the sleeves shortened unequally (without replacing the buttons: are they really needed anyway??). The tailor is not going to appreciate my changing my mind, so I really need to be sure this is the right thing to do! I guess I need some encouragement. That visit to the tailor was very stressful, and I don't look forward to a Part II. :) Thanks again, Dan
post #23366 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by danielqtaylor View Post

So there is absolutely no risk, then, in having all eight (4 x 2) buttons removed and the sleeves shortened unequally (without replacing the buttons: are they really needed anyway??) Dan

He's not replacing all eight. Only the bottom one on each sleeve. It'll be fine. How the jacket fits you in the shoulders and waist and overall length of jacket and sleeves is far far more important than sleev button issues.
post #23367 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by E,TF View Post

What's your budget? Ede & Ravenscroft in Cambridge do MTM, starts at £900... Or there's always the train to london.

Below that to be honest. Is it possible to get something for £500? I had been looking at Thick as Thieves in LA which I could get for around £450 shipped to the UK. I feel its a little risky though if theres something majorly wrong with the fit and I'm stuck in another country.
post #23368 of 33197

I'm not sure if this is the right thread to post this in, but I'm concerned that my suit jacket may have been cut too tight, as there is a large X forming around the center button. Is there a quick fix to this?

post #23369 of 33197

Yes, it's too tight around the middle.  Seems good across the shoulders, though.  The question is how much cloth is available at the seams to let it out a couple of inches (if it's tight standing like that, when you move it must be awful).  Take it to your local tailor and ask.  You might also want to take your trousers up just a touch.  They are cut very narrow too - seems to be the fashion - in which case an excess length shows more.  Best to try just a little, half an inch, and see how you get on.

post #23370 of 33197
Quote:
Originally Posted by Julian Wilson View Post


Yes, I'm unsure if they flair out too much. I've been told that slim all the way down is more of a trend, but I'm looking for more opinions. If I end up deciding to close it in a bit at the hem, how much would it cost? It's 14 inches all around right now. Sorry for the confusion. Thanks a lot.

 

No worries. I personally like chinos and jeans that taper all the way down (and I like the hems to end just short of a break) and I think those two things go hand in hand.

 

In terms of price, it depends on whether the tailor takes in from one seam or both seams. If you only need to take in a little bit, chances are he'll only need to take in from one seam. Should only cost around 20 dollars or so. If you're taking in a fair bit and you want to take in from both sides (to keep a bit of balance) it will cost double - $40. Those are Australian prices; I don't doubt in Europe and the US you could find tailors who can do it for cheaper.

 

14 inches all around means around 7 inches across. That's already fairly slim so you may not need to take in too much. If you're concerned about puddling around the ankles, also consider whether length is an issue. Might need to take them up a centimetre or two to get the desired look.

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