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post #22366 of 33125
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thanks SF (a new me) View Post

Any thoughts with the following options is much appreciated
Difficult to give you sound advice on MTM vs. OTR, when you don't say whether OTR typically fits you tolerably well. There are plenty of men who can buy OTR, get some rather basic alterations done, and have a suit which fits them splendidly. There are others for whom MTM wouuld be by far the more sensible choice, given that OTR suits do not fit them well at all.

So, into which category do you fall?

As a very general rule to which many exceptions exist, if OTR fits you fairly well, you will tend to get "more for your money" when buying OTR, than when buying MTM, assuming both suits are comparably priced (and that the price is below about $1000.) And no, I can offer no proof of this - it's just a conclusion I've reached over time. My guess is that it's due to various cost savings having to do with inventory issues and economies of scale which are available to an OTR retailer like, say, Brooks Brothers. Savings which are simply not present in anything like similar degree to the typical MTM tailor/retailer.

That having been said, if for whatever reason it does make sense to go the MTM route, I'd surely prefer having the tailor measure me in person, to emailing my various measurements to someone.

As for the MTM suit being full canvas and the OTR suit being (presumably) half canvas (as is the case with Brooks' 1818 line, I believe)... look, I get that one of the first things someone who starts educating himself about quality suits learns is that full canvas is quality, and half canvas is garbage. But the truth of the matter is, a current (yes, there have been significant improvement in this area over the years) half canvassed suit can actually be okay. And a full canvassed suit can still be disappointing.

I'm not denying that if I were dropping thousands of dollars on a bespoke suit, that I'd want it fully canvassed. Certainly I would. But I am suggesting that it's sometimes easy to place too much emphasis on this one point, to the extent that it takes on undue importance in the decision-making process - particularly when you're talking about quite good half canvassed suits, and relatively inexpensive fully canvassed ones. (And sub-$1000 MTM pretty much qualifies as relatively inexpensive.)

Oh, and particularly if you rarely wear suits (which you state to be the case), and therefore probably rarely need to have them cleaned and pressed, I wonder if the full vs. half issue might not be even less compelling. (At least in my experience, frequent cleaning and pressing will tend to exaggerate the difference between full and half canvas.)

Well, just some things maybe worth considering.
post #22367 of 33125
@12345Michael, thanks for your thoughtful response. Your points are well taken.
post #22368 of 33125


how is the fit and length of this suit?
post #22369 of 33125
sorry double post
post #22370 of 33125
Quote:
Originally Posted by GreenGranted View Post

Hey everyone,

 

Newbie building up his wardrobe (20 year old student). I already have dark brown suede desert boots, with which I'm very satisfied. I've come to the conclusion that I need bucks. My question is: which color should I get, and what material (in view of versatility, combined with the desert boots). I was thinking maybe light brown suede, like this:

 

https://svpply.com/item/415918/Sanders_Suede_Buck_Derby_Shoe_Dirty

 

Or should I go with a louder color, like olive or dark blue?

 

As a follow up, what kind of belt is appropriate with the dirty brown one? (or olive or dark blue)

 

I would go with suede navy bucks. But actually, why not black/burgundy penny loafers? These are more appropriate on campus and will dramatically increase the versatility of your shoes wardrobe. Suede bucks and suede desert boots are interchangeable and mostly casual; a pair of penny loafers can be used for both casual and slightly formal occasions while affording you much more variety in terms of texture and style.

post #22371 of 33125
Quote:
Originally Posted by kungfuninja View Post

how is the fit and length of this suit?
Almost impossible to determine, given that:

(1) your arms are not in the conventional "how does this suit fit?" position;
(2) it's extremely helpful in judging suit fit to see pics from not just in front, but also from the side and back;
(3) the untucked shirt makes it a little confusing to judge jacket length relative to your waist (as would jeans, even with a tucked shirt, since one typically wears jeans lower than one wears suit pants) (not that suit jacket length is best determined relative to one's waist, but given (1) and (2), above, it's about all that's left).

For what little it's worth, the suit jacket doesn't look ridiculously short or tight, as so many do these days given prevailing fashion trends. But more than that, I really can't say.

Why not try again, providing the three pictures I've suggested, with your hands hanging naturally at your sides, while wearing the pants that came with the suit and a tucked in shirt? Then, it'd be pretty easy to judge. (The pants will presumably be uncuffed. That's okay. Pants length can be ignored.)
post #22372 of 33125
Quote:
Originally Posted by ovlov View Post

I'm filling out my beginners wardrobe. I currently have 4 ties including a navy and a red/navy/white striped one that have the heaviest rotation. As I'm looking to add more is it bad I'm drawn to the same colours? Is it boring/pointless to end up with over half my ties some variant of navy/red even if they're all different shades and designs? Otherwise what else should I be looking out for?

I would go for a balance.  A few solids are a fantastic addition to any wardrobe.  Red, Navy and Burgundy are almost a must in my opinion.  A black tie for more formal / black tie events and a light blue / pink solid tie can also work to provide breadth and diversity to your wardrobe.  Also, getting a few regimental stripes is definitely required, especially if you are wearing these ties for corporate functions or the office.  Neat patterns (repeating small patterns) general work very well also, like small squares, dots etc.

 

Finally, I would add some novelty ties, like the Hermes / Ferragamo / Vineyard Vines style ties with animal motif prints.  They can really bring an outfit to life, and are more exciting than some of the more traditional (though classic) ties. 

 

In general, I would have the vast majority of my ties in Navy, Burgundy, Red (traditional) and Light Blue and Lilac to help balance things out and add some flair to your wardrobe.  Then, I would balance out the remaining (20% or so) with more playful colors like orange, light green etc that you can wear to weddings, St. Patricks day etc, or just in general if you are going for a more fun look.

 

Please feel free to read up more about neckties on my blog at http://suitupdressup.wordpress.com/category/ties/ or feel free to sign up for the blog's first ever newsletter, a 27 page detailed insight into neckties at: http://suitupdressup.wordpress.com/newsletter-signup-2/

 

Please feel free to message me on here with any questions you may have.

post #22373 of 33125
^An event that says "Black tie" demands a tuxedo and a black BOWTIE. While a skinny black tie or whatnot might be fun for cocktail parties, a long tie should never be worn for black tie. It's grown more common these days, but it's still incorrect, and it looks really stupid.
post #22374 of 33125

Exactly so.  A long black tie is for funerals, and should be of normal width.  Unless you're starting a Ska band/ Blues Brothers tribute.

post #22375 of 33125
Quote:
Originally Posted by cptjeff View Post

^An event that says "Black tie" demands a tuxedo and a black BOWTIE. While a skinny black tie or whatnot might be fun for cocktail parties, a long tie should never be worn for black tie. It's grown more common these days, but it's still incorrect, and it looks really stupid.

Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

Exactly so.  A long black tie is for funerals, and should be of normal width.  Unless you're starting a Ska band/ Blues Brothers tribute.

Definitely. That was some pretty bad advice there. Long black ties for formalwear and Vineyard Vines ties to "bring an outfit to life"? uhoh.gif
post #22376 of 33125
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post



Definitely. That was some pretty bad advice there. Long black ties for formalwear and Vineyard Vines ties to "bring an outfit to life"? uhoh.gif

I'm also not clear why a regimental stripe tie is a must for business functions. I would never wear a regimental stripe tie in any kind of formal business environment. They are fine in a more casual office environment, but certainly not a "must."

post #22377 of 33125

Hi Guys,

 

I'm just entering my teens and starting to develop my 'proper wear' for professional purposes and it is something I like to follow. At the moment I've got 2 blue ties (one Sam Hober), pair of Florsheim black shoes, 1 navy and 1 charcoal suit, a few shirts that are white and navy. General advice I'm looking for is what are other good items to buy as I start up, I have a fairly small figure so when I was looking for suits/shirts there was difficulty. I might look to buy shoes next since my Florsheims have peeled at the toe. Thanks for any advice.

post #22378 of 33125
I would ditch the navy shirts and get more in light blue.

I probably wouldn't spend too much on clothing at this point. Since you are just entering your teens, you are going to outgrow almost everything you buy, in some cases, within a year.

As for what else to buy, I recommend more ties, and in burgundy. If you are wearing adult-sized ties, these will last you for a while. You might also consider a navy odd jacket and some type of mid-gray trouser.
post #22379 of 33125
I bought a Hugo Boss super 150 suit about five years ago, and now I need to have the pants taken out a bit. I used to be a 34 waist. Now I am more comfortable in a 36. I am trying to figure out where to get this alteration done. Could anyone advise me as to what level of skill this alteration requires? I live in Battery Park, in Manhattan, and I was looking at Fidi Cleaners, Wagner and King's as possibilities. Can anyone recommend a tailor or advise how I can go about finding one who will do this properly? I've read a bit on the forums about some of the better tailors in Manhattan. I get the impression that they might be a bit out of my price range or reluctant to do alterations for people who are not bespoke clients. From what I've read, Bhambi's might strike a balance between quality and price. Please let me know your thoughts. Thanks in advance.
post #22380 of 33125

Phil,

 

What M Sulinski said.

 

Plus, regarding your new shoes, I am hoping someone can find you a company in the US that sells proper goodyear welted shoes for a reasonable price.  Sure, you grow out of shoes quickly, but it's a shame when they fall apart - and I know how often that happened to me even at your age.

 

In the mean time, I've recommended this UK company to others as a cheap source of reasonably well-made shoes.  They're still cheap shoes, but they shouldn't come to pieces and have a decent selection - if the postage etc works for you.  I got some for my son (14) as he's also growing fast.  They're not bad for the money.

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