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post #21421 of 31071

I want to confirm what I've learnt as to how long my sleeve length should be for dress shirts adhering to classic menswear rules.

According to Put This On and Reddit,

 

The end of the cuff should touch the start of the "V' between my index finger and thumb when fully unbuttoned as per the image below

 

 

and should button tight enough to rest at the root of my thumb, as per

 

 

And then my jacket sized to show only (1/2-3/4 inch) 1-2cm of cuff.

 

What do you think? Also, can RTW dress shirts' cuffs be tailored to be tighter?


Edited by stgrim - 4/30/13 at 3:51pm
post #21422 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by E,TF View Post

The simple fact is that these guys look like twats largely due to their tie clips -
...
and this guy doesn't
The non-twat looking guy is also clean shaven.

So many pop celebrities, male fashion models, etc., look like they should either grow a real beard, or shave more often than every 4th day.
post #21423 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post

The non-twat looking guy is also clean shaven.

So many pop celebrities, male fashion models, etc., look like they should either grow a real beard, or shave more often than every 4th day.

lol...and non-twat guy bears a striking resemblance to Sean Connery while the twat guy on the left looks like a Henry Rollins wanna be celebrity impersonator.
post #21424 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post

non-twat guy bears a striking resemblance to Sean Connery
I assume he is Sean Connery, from probably 50 years ago. I never much cared for James Bond movies, although the few I enjoy are almost all from the Sean Connery era.

I have no idea who the four guys in the other photograph are.
post #21425 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by 12345Michael54321 View Post

I assume he is Sean Connery, from probably 50 years ago. I never much cared for James Bond movies, although the few I enjoy are almost all from the Sean Connery era.

I have no idea who the four guys in the other photograph are.

I agree with your previous post Michael... and I was joking... yeah, that's definitely Sean Connery. nod[1].gif
post #21426 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by wing8tesqw View Post

I do own these blazers already. My current suits are all winter weight.  Budget not strong enough to invest in a suit I'd really really  want at this time. I'm thinking 200 max.



The nuptials are in the morning and the reception in the afternoon to early evening. All takes place at an Italian restaurant.  California location

Formality is business casual( i think).  The wedding party is definitely formal.

 
Since most of the events are taking place during the day, I'd go with the light blue jacket. I would go with a very light beige for the pants.
post #21427 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post

lol...and non-twat guy bears a striking resemblance to Sean Connery while the twat guy on the left looks like a Henry Rollins wanna be celebrity impersonator.

Yeah, that's because it is Sean Connery smile.gif
post #21428 of 31071

I bought a couple of pairs of Slim Fit Smart Pants of ASOS as an experiment... pictured here is the navy version. Aside from the other stuff that is wrong - the pants are very tight around my calves and thighs, creating this bunch up effect. It gathers in strange areas. The break is fine, the waist is great, the colours are fantastic (first navy suit pants in my wardrobe). 

 

Do I stick it out and wear them, and do they have a place in a classical menswear wardrobe? Or should I return them?

 

 

post #21429 of 31071
I have no idea who the four guys in the first photo are btw. But imagine them without tie clips - just a bunch of badly dressed guys, fine, no problem, lots of badly dressed guys in the world. That they all decided to add the little bit of man jewellery (at look-at-me eye catching height) is what elevates them to twatdom imo. Sean Connery manages to wear it in a way that doesn't scream "hey look at me and my tie clip, aren't we cool."
post #21430 of 31071

But also in a way that looks untidy and clumsy.  Because it's pulling against his shirt when he moves and is neither holding his tie in place (it's bowing out from his body), nor serving any function as his tie is tucked Mr Bean-style into his pants .  The four stooges are wearing their ties too short a-la-hipster, and Connery's is tucked into his waistband.  Frankly, both examples are awful.

 

Fleming's James Bond also was a great advocate of short sleeved shirts and nylon Y-fronts.  The James-Bond-As-Style-Reference thing is an eternal red herring.  The "real" Bond was, like most fictional heroes, a fantasy of his author, who like many creative types preferred lazy slip-on shoes, easy tie knots (if wearing a tie at all) and loose, utilitarian attire.  Hardly the SF-standard.  Peter Sellers, John Lennon...two more examples of great creators described by their peers as "too lazy to do up laces".  As for the movie Bonds, they have been just as susceptible to the whims of fashion, and more lately, sponsored sartorial idiocy, as any other media creation.  One might just as well cite Don Johnson in Miami Vice as an eternal style reference.  So just because Fleming's Bond didn't like windsor knots or proper shoes because they're time-consuming, or because Daniel Craig had a DJ with no waistcoat and a size too small. doesn't mean we should all follow.

 

The gentlemen (and I use the word loosely) in the other picture look awful for all sorts of reasons, mostly related to their awful suits and pretentious posturing, but also silly hair, awful ties and general hipster wankery.  The only thing bothersome about the tie clips is that they all seem to match, giving a rather peculiar sense of boy band clubbishness.  But for all that, their hideous ties are all perfectly straight and flush to the body.  Sean's isn't.  Then again,  Sean Connery  still looked like Sean Connery in a poly-cotton safari shirt and sandals.  But it's all relative.  

 

Personally, as I said, I don't really like tie clips an awful lot - really only when I have that short back blade issue, as I mentioned - in which case it goes in its most functional location.

post #21431 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by Archer View Post

Should I return them?

 

 

 

 

Yes.  They don't fit.  Your jacket also looks a little big for you around the chest: if you've gone for a slim fit, perhaps try a standard fit in a smaller size instead.

 

But your tie clip is in the right place.  lol8[1].gif

post #21432 of 31071

Should I spend 80 dollars on these hangers? 

http://www.butlerluxury.com/product-p/dmw-sh-1.htm

http://www.butlerluxury.com/product-p/dmw-su-1.htm

Or are there any good alternatives?

post #21433 of 31071
I need some recommendations for spring/summer RTW trousers.

Current options are:

Tropical Wool from Howard Yount at £125
or alternatively
Local MTM in Minnis fresco for £295

Opinions welcome.
post #21434 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by BossMoore View Post

Should I spend 80 dollars on these hangers? 
http://www.butlerluxury.com/product-p/dmw-sh-1.htm
http://www.butlerluxury.com/product-p/dmw-su-1.htm
Or are there any good alternatives?

I think Steve Smith (on the forum) is selling a bunch of Golden Fleece hangars.
post #21435 of 31071
Quote:
Originally Posted by inimitable View Post

Current options are:

Tropical Wool from Howard Yount at £125
or alternatively
Local MTM in Minnis fresco for £295
Start with the fit question - do the tropical wool trousers from Howard Yount fit you well? Is there a need to spend far more for MTM trousers for a proper fit?

Naturally, there are considerations beyond fit - fabric is but one of the more obvious additional considerations. But fit should always be the first thing to consider. Because no matter how wonderful the trousers, if they do not fit you properly, you shouldn't be wearing them. (And I'm talking about meaningful problems with fit, not trivial stuff which can be fixed by an alterations tailor without much trouble or expense.)

If the Howard Younts do fit you, then you have to determine whether whatever it is the local MTM trousers offer is worth an extra £170 per pair to you. And there's no real way for us to answer that question for you. Only you know how much you value whatever it is the MTM trousers offer over and above what the Howard Younts offer, and only you can judge whether you value it more than you do an extra £170.

I would only note that while MTM clothing can be very nice, on a purely "value for dollar (or pound, or Euro, or whatever)" basis, assuming off-the-rack fits you, off-the-rack will tend to win. It will tend to give you more than will MTM at an equivalent price point, in most cases short of the very high end of the price scale. If your body is such that off-the-rack is not a good fit - perhaps you have an uncommon physique due to obesity, weightlifting, genetics, whatever - then MTM can be the sensible choice. Or if there's some specific clothing feature you value, which off-the-rack does not commonly offer, but which can be obtained from MTM, well, that's the other big reason to go that route. But off-the-rack simply represents certain economies of production with which MTM cannot easily compete. (If it could easily compete, off-the-rack wouldn't exist, and all clothing would be MTM (or bespoke, in limited cases).

So, to recap -

How do those Howard Younts fit you? If they fit fine, great. If they don't, then that also suggests which way you need to go with this. If you don't know, because you've never tried on a pair of Howard Younts, well, then you're essentially buying blind. Okay, you're soliciting advice from others, which is something even if it's not nearly as valuable as simply trying the damn things on, so let's say you're flying half-blind.

Next, assuming they fit okay, tell me specifically what it is about those MTM trousers which you really value very highly, and which the Howard Younts cannot provide. If you can't do this, then again, your choice is easy to make.

Finally, if the Howard Younts fit you okay, but you can name specific reasons why you believe the MTM trousers would make you happier, ask yourself whether those qualities you value so highly in the MTM trousers would make you happier than would having an extra £170 (per pair) in your wallet. And again, figuring out how to go from there is obvious.
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