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post #21316 of 32170
It will definitely work with chinos. Go to the RL website for some ideas.
post #21317 of 32170

Awesome...thanks...and a general thank you to everyone that has helped me build my wardrobe over the past month or so...

post #21318 of 32170
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlocke View Post


I already have a solid navy (well, pretty solid -- bird's-eye) suit, so this wouldn't be my first or only. I also wear suits maybe 6 times a year max, so this may not necessarily be a situation where I'm going to get the evil eye for wearing the same thing over and over again. (Maybe if I was going to only StyleForum conventions, but in the real world, it seems to me that most people -- even at white-shoe firms these days -- don't know or don't care about the differences in fabrics or suits.) I work at a big tech company where people wear pajama bottoms and clogs to work (and this is in NYC), and my friends are video-game and beer-pong types, so the bar is pretty low here.

Anyway, I was really looking for a solid charcoal suit that had some texture close up -- to mix it up a little -- and the herringbones seemed like the most interesting choices, especially considering I already have a bird's-eye. I was already leaning toward 2 or 3 but couldn't decide between them. 

On a related topic, is there any situation where a small pattern would be acceptable as your core "solid" navy or charcoal suit?

Well, the bar is quite low, but that doesn't mean yours should be as well smile.gif

I'm with you on texture. Ideally, you'd do flannel for the winter and something like fresco or linen for the summer, but you need one suit, so I'd stick with a basic worsted. If you really want the herringbone, go for it--it's your call at the end of the day, and you need to be happy with it. I just feel herringbone isn't as much of a staple as a solid. If you have a suit that fits (which I'd assume you would given the reviews that Kent Wang gets around here) then you'll already look great and be far ahead of the curve--and now you have a suit that can be used for everything from a night on the town to an interview to a funeral--just change up the shirt, shoes, and tie.
post #21319 of 32170
Quote:
Originally Posted by aravenel View Post


Well, the bar is quite low, but that doesn't mean yours should be as well smile.gif

I'm with you on texture. Ideally, you'd do flannel for the winter and something like fresco or linen for the summer, but you need one suit, so I'd stick with a basic worsted. If you really want the herringbone, go for it--it's your call at the end of the day, and you need to be happy with it. I just feel herringbone isn't as much of a staple as a solid. If you have a suit that fits (which I'd assume you would given the reviews that Kent Wang gets around here) then you'll already look great and be far ahead of the curve--and now you have a suit that can be used for everything from a night on the town to an interview to a funeral--just change up the shirt, shoes, and tie.

 

Ha, I agree, but the low bar is tempting...

 

Anyway, I've been really set on herringbone -- my original question was more about which herringbone rather than whether to go herringbone at all. I think after hearing from everyone on here, as consolation I'm going to go with no. 3, which is the smallest pattern and most likely to resemble a solid. Kent made my previous suit, which I love, so I'm pretty confident I'll love this one either way.

 

Also, this has been nagging me a bit: Won't the same people who notice that I'm wearing the same herringbone charcoal suit all the time be the ones to notice I'm wearing the same solid charcoal suit all the time? 

post #21320 of 32170
Quote:
Originally Posted by johnlocke View Post

 

Ha, I agree, but the low bar is tempting...

 

Anyway, I've been really set on herringbone -- my original question was more about which herringbone rather than whether to go herringbone at all. I think after hearing from everyone on here, as consolation I'm going to go with no. 3, which is the smallest pattern and most likely to resemble a solid. Kent made my previous suit, which I love, so I'm pretty confident I'll love this one either way.

 

Also, this has been nagging me a bit: Won't the same people who notice that I'm wearing the same herringbone charcoal suit all the time be the ones to notice I'm wearing the same solid charcoal suit all the time? 

Just be careful your herringbone doesn't end up looking like a self-stripe. I have one of these and don't wear it because of this.

 

Also, since you already have a bird's eye, I am going to go with the consensus that a solid is the best option. I like charcoal over navy (barely) because you can wear navy ties with it.

post #21321 of 32170
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

Just be careful your herringbone doesn't end up looking like a self-stripe. I have one of these and don't wear it because of this.

 

Also, since you already have a bird's eye, I am going to go with the consensus that a solid is the best option. I like charcoal over navy (barely) because you can wear navy ties with it.

Well, that was sort of my original question -- how do I tell if something will look like a self-stripe from just a swatch?

 

I'm leaning toward this: http://www.kentwang.com/suits/charcoal-herringbone.html or this: http://www.kentwang.com/suits/charcoal-herringbone-3.html.

 

For reference, Kent Wang's standard charcoal suit is made from this: http://www.kentwang.com/suits/charcoal-twill-3.html.

post #21322 of 32170

What is the consensus on "the gap" that is formed when buttoning a jacket that leaves the belt buckle and part of the shirt visible? I'm not sure if there's more accurate terminology I should be using here. To explain what I mean, I snagged a picture from the WAYWRN thread of our esteemed friend NewYorkIslander. It's not my intention to pick on NYI, but his picture demonstrated exactly what I'm curious about. 

 

 

When is it appropriate and when is it not appropriate? It seems to be more of a casual/odd SC thing, whereas a well-made suit would not display any gap? Am I right in guessing that "the gap" is just a little more casual vs a jacket that completely overlaps and does not show the gap?

post #21323 of 32170

I would say that the quarters are too open (that's the expression) in this pic of NYI.  In my opinion this is a little too nipped in the waist (the stretching/creases around the button are a giveaway, but this is very common with the fashion for a close fit these days), the quarters are just cut too open, and the trousers could have a slightly higher rise (again, the current fad is low rise; I dislike it).

 

Generally, if you can see your belt buckle, and certainly if you can see your shirt below the suit button, then that's a bad thing.  One of three things could be wrong: the buttoning point of the jacket is too high, the quarters are too open, or the trousers sit too low.  In this case I'd say the second, possibly with a hint of the third, AND that the jacket is just a touch too small around the body.  He's a splendid dresser for a schoolteacher though, isn't he?  Actually, he's a splendid dresser by any standard.

post #21324 of 32170
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

I would say that the quarters are too open (that's the expression) in this pic of NYI.  In my opinion this is a little too nipped in the waist (the stretching/creases around the button are a giveaway, but this is very common with the fashion for a close fit these days), the quarters are just cut too open, and the trousers could have a slightly higher rise (again, the current fad is low rise; I dislike it).

 

Generally, if you can see your belt buckle, and certainly if you can see your shirt below the suit button, then that's a bad thing.  One of three things could be wrong: the buttoning point of the jacket is too high, the quarters are too open, or the trousers sit too low.  In this case I'd say the second, possibly with a hint of the third, AND that the jacket is just a touch too small around the body.  He's a splendid dresser for a schoolteacher though, isn't he?  Actually, he's a splendid dresser by any standard.


Call me crazy but I actually dig it...the hint of metal juxtaposed with the tie is cool...I agree with the other poster that it's more casual than a suit...it lends it a certain something...or as the French say a certain je m'appelle insouciance. ;)

post #21325 of 32170
Quote:
Originally Posted by Irish View Post

Understood.  Mine was an accident -- I thought I was in the other forum.  I'm an old man, I'm confused!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=79YUknp1T7I

No worries, Irish. In hope that you find some folks over there who can help you out.
Cheers.
post #21326 of 32170

The French say "my name is insouciance"?  Weird.

 

Anyway, what I forgot to add was that there should be some gap.  And maybe a "hint of metal" as you put it, is OK.  But really, if you can see the whole thing and/or shirt and tie, then something's not quite right.

post #21327 of 32170
Quote:
Originally Posted by mimo View Post

The French say "my name is insouciance"?  Weird.

 

Anyway, what I forgot to add was that there should be some gap.  And maybe a "hint of metal" as you put it, is OK.  But really, if you can see the whole thing and/or shirt and tie, then something's not quite right.


I was being purposely malapropic with a phrase (hence the winky thingy)...I'm sure you were expecting "je ne sais quoi"...I thought it was clever...c'est la vie...jokes like fashion choices sometimes fall flat...non?

post #21328 of 32170

Haha...OK that's kind of what I thought...we're on the same page after all!

post #21329 of 32170
Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve Smith View Post

Skip this if you are not interested in minutiae of shirt measurement.



Now and then I am asked to measure a shirt like we measure a suit; shoulder seam to shoulder seam, and shoulder seam to end of sleeve. I have already provided actual collar and sleeve measurements (measured the traditional way) and usually have provided P2P. In my experience, if a shirt has the correct neck-sleeve size for me then the shoulder seam falls at the right spot. That is 100% of the time.

I know that the shoulder seam to end of sleeve measurement is unnecessary. If the sleeve length in the collar-sleeve size format is your sleeve length then the end of the sleeve will be in the right place at your wrist.

The question is whether the shoulder seam to shoulder seam measurement is of any use to anyone. Do any of you find that some OTR shirts which are of the correct size (collar-sleeve actual measurements) actually do not fit you because the shoulder seam to shoulder seam width is too wide or too narrow?

I actually find the 16-33 slim fits and extra slim fits that my neck and arms need from Brooks Brothers are slightly too wide in the shoulder. Maybe 1/4"-1/2" on each side. But so far it does not bother me enough to do anything about it.

post #21330 of 32170

I tried searching, but to no avail. I really do not know how waist suppression work, so here's my question:

 

Can a waist suppression on a suit jacket be undone? If yes, would it go back to the way it exactly was before the suppression was made? 

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