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post #20461 of 33133

I'm looking at getting my first summer suit commissioned, I have a nice wool/linen 50/50 picked out in a light navy color. I was wondering if I should get the jacket fully lined or half lined? I work in NYC so some summer days can get pretty brutal and my initial impression was half lined, but after doing some research I've read conflicting reports on fully lined vs half lined especially in regards to linen/linen blends. Any help is appreciated.

post #20462 of 33133
Anyone know if this Oliver Spencer jacket can still be had anywhere?

https://vendingmachineonline.wordpress.com/2011/12/08/oliver-spencer-mens-wool-guard-coat/

I am in love...
post #20463 of 33133
Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnyGalt View Post

I'm looking at getting my first summer suit commissioned, I have a nice wool/linen 50/50 picked out in a light navy color. I was wondering if I should get the jacket fully lined or half lined? I work in NYC so some summer days can get pretty brutal and my initial impression was half lined, but after doing some research I've read conflicting reports on fully lined vs half lined especially in regards to linen/linen blends. Any help is appreciated.

I would say half lined. NYC summers can be brutal (I would know) and with linen the most important place to be lined is the sleeves. Embrace the wrinkles in the tail, which will be there regardless, although maybe slightly less so if it is fully lined. But wrinkles are part of the wonder of linen.
post #20464 of 33133

I want to know if peak lapels are acceptable on tall (6'3") heavy-set men (54L/54XL), or if I should stick with the standard notch lapels.

post #20465 of 33133
You should buy
fresco or somesuch
openweave fabric
for the hottest
summer days
in Manhattan;
because linen
(although beautiful)
wears hotter than
one might think.
post #20466 of 33133
Quote:
Originally Posted by wesny View Post


I would say half lined. NYC summers can be brutal (I would know) and with linen the most important place to be lined is the sleeves. Embrace the wrinkles in the tail, which will be there regardless, although maybe slightly less so if it is fully lined. But wrinkles are part of the wonder of linen.

 

I have three linen suits.  They crease like a bitch in no time at all.  Then you take the choice whether today is a day you want to look pressed and neat for an hour, or to just "embrace the wrinkles" as you put it.

 

I would also say half lined, although another factor is that linen, depending on type, can be quite transparent in a single layer in the light, so if you're wearing an odd jacket in a very light linen, it might look strange at the bottom when the sun catches you.  Also, because of the creasing and softness, it's inherently casual.  I wear my suits for all kinds of meetings, and offset the casual look by having all of them made up as three pieces, so I have the option of the inherent formality that way, albeit in a very summery look..  

post #20467 of 33133

Anyone know who produce Saint Crispin shoes?

post #20468 of 33133

Er...St Crispin.  Their factory, I believe, is in Romania.  I understand it's theirs, rather than a generic supplier to different brands.

post #20469 of 33133
I was wondering if I could get someone's advice on tailoring pants.

I did search, but I couldn't seem to find a definitive answer cause my inquiry seems a bit too specific (I'm really picky shog[1].gif)

I need some wool trousers for my internship this summer, and I had a couple questions.

I'm a really skinny asian college student, and so most of the pants I've found don't seem to fit me as slim as I want.
I'm looking for something with a 32 in waist, 10-10.5 inch rise, 11-11.5 inch thighs, a 7-7.5 inch opening, and 100% wool under $150 a piece. I know my measurements are a little weird, specially for the waist size, but I have a naturally thick waist (bone structure I guess), even though I'm pretty lean.

I know that my measurements aren't something I can easily find, so I was planning on just buying a pair of landend's tailored fit wool pants (since they're only $70) and just getting them altered.

My question was, how much can I alter these pants before they start getting weird? Can I slim down the legs 2 inches or so and also shorten the rise by 0.5-1 inch?

Thanks for all the help!
post #20470 of 33133
Will taking in sides of suit jacket shorten length?
post #20471 of 33133

Any recommendable tailors in SoHo/Lower Manhattan area? Primarily for just hemming some pants.

post #20472 of 33133
Quote:
Originally Posted by Mr Engineer View Post

Will taking in sides of suit jacket shorten length?
Nope.
post #20473 of 33133
Does formal shirt sizing in S, M, L, XL etc. rather than 40, 41, 42 etc. imply: 1) more casualness; 2) less precision in proportions?
post #20474 of 33133
Shirts are sized by collar measurement and sleeve length, e.g. 16"/34". Probably best just to steer clear of anything that is measured otherwise.
post #20475 of 33133
Quote:
Originally Posted by E,TF View Post

Shirts are sized by collar measurement and sleeve length, e.g. 16"/34". Probably best just to steer clear of anything that is measured otherwise.

+1.
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