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post #19831 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nicola View Post


Well a trench coat is double breasted so you aren't looking for a trench.

The general rule is lighter colours make you look bigger. Darker smaller.

Well, I think you are referring to a classic trench coat. I personally think that a modern trench coat can be single breasted. I know a lighter color makes me look bigger but somebody said that a small guy (shorter than 6') shouldn't wear a double breasted trench coat (especially a light color double breasted trench coat). So, I'm wondering that should I wear a light color trench coat (single breasted) since I'm only 5'8" :(

post #19832 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

What is the purpose of working buttonholes on a jacket? Costs me an extra forty dollars to have the sleeves adjusted. I know their historical purpose...do they have any anymore?
To show everyone else that you have expensive/custom-made clothing. Of course, to do this, you have to leave the last one unbuttoned.
post #19833 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

To show everyone else that you have expensive/custom-made clothing. Of course, to do this, you have to leave the last one unbuttoned.


...and you can leave the last one unbuttoned to show your Rolex...
post #19834 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by Claghorn View Post

What is the purpose of working buttonholes on a jacket? Costs me an extra forty dollars to have the sleeves adjusted. I know their historical purpose...do they have any anymore?


I've always thought of them as a "nice touch" rather than a useful thing.  Dressing well is about the details and we don't really have many places in which to add some tasteful flair.  Working/surgeon's cuffs just shows (to anyone who knows to look) that you have spent some attention and money on your suit.  Some folks wear the last button undone for a little bit of flash.  I think it might be a bit gauche.. but I admit I have done it.

 

When I had my first suit made with surgeons cuffs I read about their history and from what I recall surgeons asked to have them on their suits to keep their cuffs clean in surgery.  This effectually separated them from the lower-classes and was a sign of stature. 

 

I think that last bit is where they still have a purpose, if any. 

post #19835 of 32467
I think I'll get more "Clags, youre missing some buttons" than anything else if I leave them unbuttoned. Perhaps I'll leave my shirt cuffs unbuttoned and try to pass it off as steez

Also, if I suddenly crack and go Patrick Bateman on someone, I'll be able to keep the sleeves clean, so there's that, too.
post #19836 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by azumi View Post

Well, I think you are referring to a classic trench coat. I personally think that a modern trench coat can be single breasted. I know a lighter color makes me look bigger but somebody said that a small guy (shorter than 6') shouldn't wear a double breasted trench coat (especially a light color double breasted trench coat). So, I'm wondering that should I wear a light color trench coat (single breasted) since I'm only 5'8" frown.gif

You can call a duck a cat but it's still a duck. A trench is double breasted. It has a belt plus a few other features.

5'8 is pretty much average.




Okay it's not a trench but he's basically your height and wearing a light coloured coat.
post #19837 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanGent View Post


I've always thought of them as a "nice touch" rather than a useful thing.  Dressing well is about the details and we don't really have many places in which to add some tasteful flair.  Working/surgeon's cuffs just shows (to anyone who knows to look) that you have spent some attention and money on your suit.  Some folks wear the last button undone for a little bit of flash.  I think it might be a bit gauche.. but I admit I have done it.

 

When I had my first suit made with surgeons cuffs I read about their history and from what I recall surgeons asked to have them on their suits to keep their cuffs clean in surgery.  This effectually separated them from the lower-classes and was a sign of stature. 

 

I think that last bit is where they still have a purpose, if any. 

I'm not really sure there is a good argument for getting working button holes to keep one's cuffs from getting messy. It takes 20x as long to unbutton all of the buttons (less if you leave the last one undone) than it does to simply remove the jacket.

post #19838 of 32467
I'm in a bit of a pinch - how do you advise packing suits into a large duffle bag? Same goes for shirts.
post #19839 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by Chase H View Post

With what he has?

 

By the way, I don't really understand the problem with a tie with a vest but no coat. I'm aware it's hardly traditional, but it doesn't exactly make you look like a Jehovah's Witness.


post #19840 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

To show everyone else that you have expensive/custom-made clothing. Of course, to do this, you have to leave the last one unbuttoned.

lol8[1].gif

Seriously though, please don't do this. It's a very gauche look.

Really, they are just a "nice touch"--if you've got buttons there, they should work, right? Definitely avoid anything that comes new with working buttonholes as you won't be able to easily alter the sleeve length. I do have buttonholes put on most of my jackets just because it drives me crazy to have the non-working buttons, but yeah, they have no practical use.
post #19841 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by AmericanGent View Post

I've always thought of them as a "nice touch" rather than a useful thing.  Dressing well is about the details and we don't really have many places in which to add some tasteful flair.  Working/surgeon's cuffs just shows (to anyone who knows to look) that you have spent some attention and money on your suit.  Some folks wear the last button undone for a little bit of flash.  I think it might be a bit gauche.. but I admit I have done it.

When I had my first suit made with surgeons cuffs I read about their history and from what I recall surgeons asked to have them on their suits to keep their cuffs clean in surgery.  This effectually separated them from the lower-classes and was a sign of stature. 

I think that last bit is where they still have a purpose, if any. 

Of course nowadays all of the cheaper fashion-forward brands (Charles Tyrwhitt and Suit Supply off the top of my head) are aware that this is a detail people want, and all of their suits have it. So it's no longer a sign of having spent money or attention.

Sort of like spoilers on cars. Believe it or not, there was once a time when they only appeared on cars that actually needed them to stay planted on the road while cornering at speed. But once people associated them with "cool" cars they started appearing on everything.

Anyway, people will need to come up with a new dog whistle to discreetly show off how special their high-end suits are, because surgeon's cuffs no longer do it.
post #19842 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcbrown View Post

Of course nowadays all of the cheaper fashion-forward brands (Charles Tyrwhitt and Suit Supply off the top of my head) are aware that this is a detail people want, and all of their suits have it. So it's no longer a sign of having spent money or attention.

Sort of like spoilers on cars. Believe it or not, there was once a time when they only appeared on cars that actually needed them to stay planted on the road while cornering at speed. But once people associated them with "cool" cars they started appearing on everything.

Anyway, people will need to come up with a new dog whistle to discreetly show off how special their high-end suits are, because surgeon's cuffs no longer do it.

Yep. First it was pick stitching, then working buttons... Wonder what will be next?
post #19843 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by mcbrown View Post


Of course nowadays all of the cheaper fashion-forward brands (Charles Tyrwhitt and Suit Supply off the top of my head) are aware that this is a detail people want, and all of their suits have it. So it's no longer a sign of having spent money or attention.

Sort of like spoilers on cars. Believe it or not, there was once a time when they only appeared on cars that actually needed them to stay planted on the road while cornering at speed. But once people associated them with "cool" cars they started appearing on everything.

Anyway, people will need to come up with a new dog whistle to discreetly show off how special their high-end suits are, because surgeon's cuffs no longer do it.

I've actually some guys who take OTR suits and have the buttons opened to achieve the look of a higher-end suit.  I was trying to think of an analogy earlier- but the spoiler one was better than what I came up with.  I still think I will ask for them on my next suit.   

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by msulinski View Post

I'm not really sure there is a good argument for getting working button holes to keep one's cuffs from getting messy. It takes 20x as long to unbutton all of the buttons (less if you leave the last one undone) than it does to simply remove the jacket.


I think this was in the Edwardian era?  But I'd have to look it up. 

 

EDIT: Just looked it up and found a paragraph about surgeon's cuffs:

 

Savile Row was inhabited largely by surgeons before the tailors moved in during the 19th century, and their influence can be seen in the “surgeon's cuff”. On the most expensive suits the cuff buttons, which mirror the pips of military rank, can be undone, allowing the sleeve to be rolled back. This let surgeons attend patients spouting blood without removing their coats—an important distinction that set them apart from shirt-sleeved tradesmen of the lower orders. Surgeon's shirts, with detachable cuffs, are still made to order by London tailors.

http://www.economist.com/node/17722802


Edited by AmericanGent - 1/18/13 at 9:56am
post #19844 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by azumi View Post

Well, I think you are referring to a classic trench coat. I personally think that a modern trench coat can be single breasted. I know a lighter color makes me look bigger but somebody said that a small guy (shorter than 6') shouldn't wear a double breasted trench coat (especially a light color double breasted trench coat). So, I'm wondering that should I wear a light color trench coat (single breasted) since I'm only 5'8" frown.gif

What you are referring to is not a trench coat. You can certainly have single breasted raincoats, and they look perfectly fine, but they are not trenchcoats. Words have meanings, and trenchcoat is a specific type of raincoat, not just a word used to describe any classic raincoat you want. Basically, double breasted and belted are the key elements to a trenchcoat- some would also say it has to be mid length, but makers have been playing around with the length from day one, so I wouldn't include that.

As for color, your size doesn't matter, whoever told you that you shouldn't wear a real trenchcoat was wrong. Wear what you like, just make sure it's sized appropriately. I'm 5'6" and own both a classic tan trenchcoat and a black Mackintosh (single breasted raincoat with a covered fly, probably what you're looking at). I find the trench gets more wear when I'm dressed fairly formally and the Mac more wear when I'm in business casual. YMMV. Tan is certainly a perfectly acceptable color for a smaller guy to wear, as is navy. Pick whichever you like.
post #19845 of 32467
Quote:
Originally Posted by mixedmajik View Post

Has anyone tried the Mr. B's line (from Aldo) Chastin shoes? They look like white bucks and are on sale right now...have a leather sole too...not sure about the brand or this shoe from them in particular...google mr. b chastin and you can find it...in class right now so I can't get too distracted looking for the link.

I haven't tried these particular shoes, but have the Blake boot my Mr. B's which is really quite awesome. I'm not sure the "Chastin" has a leather sole -- i think it's that reddish rubber. One thing, the boots run very large and wide, and these shoes might as well. I normally wear EU41 but got EU39.
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