The RTW made-in-Italy Oxxford shirts carried at Saks are just decent, and overpriced. The buttonholes are done decently by hand, but some of the machine stitching seems a little crude, price and company reputation considered. The yApre' shirts made by IS are also decent...but overpriced. If you're willing to go to a shirtmaker besides a true custom atelier, such as IS/Oxxford MTM, Ike Behar has a "custom" program with quite a few good fabrics(including 200s) and prices within your desired range. This program has no minimum. The customer has the option of buying his pattern for $500. Few experiences can stack up to having true custom shirts made. Paris-based Lanvin makes excellent custom shirts with no minimum order. They will give you all the fittings you need. However, I don't think that they normally travel to meet clients.