I read this thread with vicarious dismay. I'm a pretty standard size (16-16.5/34) and over the years have picked up a closetful of very fine shirts, nearly all second hand or on the very deepest of discounts. It's a bit dispiriting that at your price point and with a willingness to buy in quantity you don't have more options. I can say without a doubt that the finest shirts I've worn have been bespoke Charvet--perhaps not a single hand-stitch on the shirt, but constructed with absolute precision and fanatical attention to detail; with extra material for collars and cuffs the shirts should last for decades. Bespoke T&A can also be very good as well. I must say that I think the Neapolitans (the big names, at least) have taken a mis-step somewhere along the line. I have some Borrelli shirts from the early to mid nineties that are still going strong. But back then they seemed to use a more substantial and durable fabric (often with a subtle irridescent sheen) and engaged in much less of what seems to be novelty handwork (I like to see all those handstitches too, but in the end it's really only the visible expression of artisanal labor and does not necessarily make for a superior shirt). As others have noted, I think one of the keys to getting the bespoke shirt you want will be finding exactly the right fabric. The idea of buying fabric from T&A is alluring to me, but perhaps that's not to everyone's taste. I'm sure, however, that you will be able to save some money by procuring the fabric yourself and then bringing it to a shirtmaker (just remember to buy extra for refurbishing later on). The IS shirts I've seen have been nothing special, but much of the reason for that may be that the customers are not that demanding and don't have clear ideas about what they want. As with any bespoke product successful collaboration is the cornerstone, so if you know what you want and can find a skilled tailor or shirtmaker who understands and is sympathetic to your inclinations much of the battle is already won at that point. BTW. I've seen a couple of those Y'Apre shirts and they were quite a cruel joke--all of the elements were absolutely top-notch (fabric, buttons, workmanship) and yet the shirts themselves were an undistinguished jumble.