Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Bespoke Shirts...what are my options?
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

Bespoke Shirts...what are my options? - Page 3

post #31 of 50
If you're not completely happy with Borrelli MTM, don't buy MTM from Battistoni, Finamore, Lorenzini et al if there's a hefty minimum involved. You ought to get true custom for the amount you would spend buying MTM shirts from these makers. Go to Italy or France for custom shirts.
post #32 of 50
To Iwantstyle: Turnbull sells cloth in pre-made packages in the store. They have a broad variety of exclusives, superfine cottons, and Sea Island quality poplins. The starting price is $75 a package. It's in the bespoke shirt department. I do not know if they will sell cloth "out of the book" since they are shirtmakers and are in the business of making shirts. (It could be similar to someone going to a restaurant and asking for a raw piece of meat to go.) I would call and ask for either Simon Hobbs or Michael Marshall in the NYC shop. To Jekv12: I have found Individualized Shirts to match the stripes at the shoulder. I do not know if they do so at the sleeve gauntlet. I am wearing a Bruce Cameron Clark shirt now, and it matches at the gauntlet.
post #33 of 50
Further note to Jekv12 on Individualized Shirts: I have found them to be very good shirts for the money (less than 1/2 of Turnbull.) They aren't on the level of Turnbull or Borrelli. I would say that IS is one step below them, and that it is the best of the American, widely available MTM class. (Better than Brooks Bros. present MTM; IS used to make Brooks's MTM.) I also buy them once in a while at a discounter in NYC, LS Clothing, which sells them at an average price of $125. IS has a "bespoke" line sold under Oxxford Bespoke and Y'Pres. (This is made by a small, dedicatated team of the best craftsmen at IS.) The level of manufacture appears to equal or exceed Turnbull. I'm trying one of its shirts which should be delivered soon. I'll see if all of the patterns match, and I'll post my opinion in about 1 month. I'll say this for Turnbull: It has an excellent, edited selection of shirt cloths including its exclusive stripes and plaids, classics, and higher end selections. Turnbull's selection is superior to Borrelli and other makers. IS's selection is a little dull by comparison, but the price is right. Cheers.
post #34 of 50
What does Oxxford bespoke charge? Or is this the same price as the regular IS product?
post #35 of 50
yApre' shirts can approach $500.
post #36 of 50
Oxxford bespoke starts at about $200 and goes up to $400. It seems that the bespoke is approx. $75-100 greater in price than the regular IS shirts.
post #37 of 50
Since it has not already been mentioned - Mike at Geneva makes a good shirt in your price range. Quality is quite good and customer service is excellent. Highly recommended. The place I have had the least success with is Ascot Chang - but given some satisfied customers in these forums, you may have a better experience. Prices range from approx. $125 to 500. A decent shirtmaker with great fabric selection is Riddle McIntyre in Chicago - no need to go there if you are in the NY area though.
post #38 of 50
RE: Individualized - I've been getting them for about 6 years now, though I didn't get any this past year. I agree - it's a decent shirt for the money, and I don't care (much) about the sleeve placket not lininig up. But for the areas that are visible - stripes on the collar tip, stripes/patterns on the cuff ends and anything going across the front of a casual shirt (ie you can't hide a mismatch with a tie) they should do a better job, IMHO.
post #39 of 50
For what's it's worth, I have heard that Geneva used to make Sulka's shirts. I also have a recommendation from the former bespoke manager at Turnbull who used to be a Geneva customer. You can get it cheaper and without "losses in translation" if you go direct to Geneva rather than through Saks.
post #40 of 50
Just checked an Individualized Shirt from Saks that I'm wearing today. Yes, the stripes aren't matched at the shoulder and at the gauntlet at the forearm. However, I have some IS striped shirts with matching elements. As I indicated in early posts, the IS is on the B level of quality overall as compared to Turnbull which is on the A level. However, IS is half the price. I have also found the IS to wear longer than Turnbull. I have had some Turnbulls start to fray after a few wearings. I have had bespoke shirts from the almighty Turnbull with non-matching elements. If Turnbull delivered such shirts to me today I would demand matching elements in view of the hefty price. I'll let you know how the "bespoke" model from IS turns out.
post #41 of 50
I read this thread with vicarious dismay. I'm a pretty standard size (16-16.5/34) and over the years have picked up a closetful of very fine shirts, nearly all second hand or on the very deepest of discounts. It's a bit dispiriting that at your price point and with a willingness to buy in quantity you don't have more options. I can say without a doubt that the finest shirts I've worn have been bespoke Charvet--perhaps not a single hand-stitch on the shirt, but constructed with absolute precision and fanatical attention to detail; with extra material for collars and cuffs the shirts should last for decades. Bespoke T&A can also be very good as well. I must say that I think the Neapolitans (the big names, at least) have taken a mis-step somewhere along the line. I have some Borrelli shirts from the early to mid nineties that are still going strong. But back then they seemed to use a more substantial and durable fabric (often with a subtle irridescent sheen) and engaged in much less of what seems to be novelty handwork (I like to see all those handstitches too, but in the end it's really only the visible expression of artisanal labor and does not necessarily make for a superior shirt). As others have noted, I think one of the keys to getting the bespoke shirt you want will be finding exactly the right fabric. The idea of buying fabric from T&A is alluring to me, but perhaps that's not to everyone's taste. I'm sure, however, that you will be able to save some money by procuring the fabric yourself and then bringing it to a shirtmaker (just remember to buy extra for refurbishing later on). The IS shirts I've seen have been nothing special, but much of the reason for that may be that the customers are not that demanding and don't have clear ideas about what they want. As with any bespoke product successful collaboration is the cornerstone, so if you know what you want and can find a skilled tailor or shirtmaker who understands and is sympathetic to your inclinations much of the battle is already won at that point. BTW. I've seen a couple of those Y'Apre shirts and they were quite a cruel joke--all of the elements were absolutely top-notch (fabric, buttons, workmanship) and yet the shirts themselves were an undistinguished jumble.
post #42 of 50
I also don't care for the yApre' shirts.
post #43 of 50
Foxx, in your first post in this thread you mention a minimum of 6 at a cost of $350 each. Is this essentially the maximum amount you are willing to pay for custom shirts; 6 x $350 = $2100? There are shirtmakers who charge more than $350 for a shirt and there are shirtmakers who charge well under $350, some who do not require a minimum order and some who do. There are shirtmakers who charge more than $350 for a shirt but have no minimum. There are shirtmakers who charge much less than $350 for a shirt, and even with a minimum order, can allow you to stay well within your budget.
post #44 of 50
Thread Starter 
thanks to all for the valuable advice and information. As i've just purchased my first pair of lobb shoes today, shirts will have to take a back-burner for this month, but the oxxford MTM seems to be a good option-- provided i can control the tie-space at the collar, sleeve length, and possibly collar height. I'll be the first to admit I'm a clothing snob, but also please understand i'm originally from the midwest-- things made in japan, taiwan, and other far-eastern locations were (and still are, from a recent conversation with my sister about automobiles) looked down upon; I can remember my father scraping the 'made in japan' from a pair of pliers he had mistakenly thought was made in the USA. I guess i'd much rather pay for the traditions and 'passing down' of sartorial knowledge of the british and italians when it comes to clothing, especially after seeing some of the photos of "real steals" on shirts and suits made in the orient-- none of them looked quite right to me. Again, feel free to accuse me of needless snobbery; what do you expect from a guy who wears jacket sleeve buttons undone, right??
post #45 of 50
feel free to accuse me of needless snobbery
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › Bespoke Shirts...what are my options?