Originally Posted by Wes Bourne
Imakeyourshoes, as far as your firm is concerned, are we to understand that you install flush mounted plates on welted shoes the same way, whether as part of a MTO job, full bespoke or retrofitting?
What I mean by that is when a customer specifies flush mounted plates, do you finish the sole any differently to allow/prepare for that? I always assumed that even if it's specified by a customer right from the start, it is no different than a retrofitting: the `plate guy` (for lack of better/proper term) is handed a pair of shoes with fully finished soles to work on. Is that the case?
taps are fitted on finished shoes, there is no way to incorporate it into making, you dont know where the edge of the toe is until after its rounded and it then has to be stitched and trimmed, try stitching or trimming through a steel toe tap lol, even if you did it after stitching, the sole still must be scoured, after scouring, its no different fitting it before or after inking the sole and polishing it
Originally Posted by Roger
Just a small point here. It seems as though this would work fine as long as the channel is close to 2 mm. deep, but what if it isn't? Suppose the stitches sit at a 1 mm. depth from the sole surface, for example. Or, more generally, what if the stitches in the channel are at a depth that is less than the thickness of the toe plate? Does the cobbler then grind down the toe plate to make it sit flush?
channel depth is determined by the channel knife on the rounder, its the same on every shoe, probably around 1.5mm at a guess, then the stitches do pull tight into the leather somewhat due to the nature of sopping wet leather, and this is only around the very outer edge of the sole, and is only a problem at the 2 points on either side where tap meets bottom of sole, you can take more out of the middle of the toe than the edge, also remember this is after trimming where the edge is taken down to right beside the stitches, the screws then pull it in tight too, but the difference in height is fractions of a mm, its flush always
please dont worry about stitches being cut, it doesnt happen, if it ever did, there would still be nothing to worry about, the problem with shoes that wear out at the toe opening up is because once the stitches are gone, theres nothing to stop the leather seperating in extreme cases of glue failure, but the tap is there to stop it flexing apart, steel wont peel back like leather would