Manton, you b----rd. Why did you have to link up that Attolni blazer... [MUST NOT BUY, MUST NOT BUY]. I think I misdescribed the pants I'm going for. I want the pants to sit about 1" below my navel -- not low rise as in casual pants low rise, but a lower rise than I typically find on off the rack suits. What I'm really looking for is to recreate the Belvest flat front odd trousers I picked up at Louis, which have a perfect rise for me if I want the pants to sit 3/4" to 1" below my navel and are slimmer than average in the seat and upper thigh (I have no seat and have non-stocky legs). The only difference is that I want it to be about 1.5" wider through the calf and ankle -- I think straight-legged was probably a misnomer here. My bad. I'm going for about a 17.5 - 18" cuff, I think. For the pants, the idea was to have the cloth not drape so excessively around the crotch area -- it could be I just want an "appropriate rise" as opposed to a low rise. The single foward pleat was so I could have just a little but of fullness in the crease of the pant, which I find looks better both with the jacket and when you have the jacket off wearing a tie, but still keep that cleanness that I'm going for. The forward pleat to me resembles the flat front pants more than does the reverse pleat. So, as you see, what I want is a little leaner silhouette in the pants, without it being too narrow in the lower leg (I just think that cuts down on the elongating properties of the pants if it's too narrow, and I need the elongation since I'm only 5'10"). I don't want a 2 1/2 button -- I like them, but I think it is difficult to execute perfectly and I also just like the look of the high 2 button a bit better. But I do want a lean fit in the shoulders (hence, the reason why I'd like them lightly padded and sloped, which I find leaner in appearance), smaller armholes, and a close fit in the torso. Tapered sleeves is of course going to be the norm here. I'll try to find a picture of what I'm trying to recreate to get comments later. I think I'm going to officially pick a fabric and do a fitting in early February (depending on when I have the courage to tell my wife that I'm spending part of my Christmas bonus on a bespoke suit!
. LA Guy, yes this is Rizzo. Had another great conversation with him today, as we were comparing his work to Kiton and Oxxford. Fascinating. The coats I saw him working on were definitely first-rate, and he admits that he could be charging more but doesn't want to. He is an immigrant artist first, in his opinion. He is not a businessman. He showed me how the Kiton label was machine stitched into the inside of the jacket, then showed his label, which was entirely handstitched. I asked him why he did it, and he said because he likes doing things by hand. I asked him how long it took, he said, "Who cares." I saw the Kiton jacket he had altered for someone and I looked at the sleeves and said, "He didn't want working buttonholes." He said, "No, he did . . . look." The handstitching he did on the buttonholes was so fine and incredible that they honestly looked like well-done faux buttonholes. I have little hesitance that he will do an impeccable job over the course of three fittings.