I have pretty much made up my mind to get a bespoke suit done by a local tailor here in Cambridge. I was speaking with him a few days ago, and he was showing me some of his work compared with an OTR Kiton he was working on and with the Oxxford I brought to him for some repair work. I was very, very impressed. At $1595 for a Loro Piana fabric (the English ones are just a bit too high priced for my taste, and the tailor thinks the distinction between Italian and English fabrics are minimal nowadays), I think this is an incredibly good price considering the workmanship he does (almost everything is by hand). So, as for the jacket, I'm thinking of going high two-button single breatsted, higher-gorge notch lapels (should I go on the slimmer side, or wider side, or standard?), sloped shoulder with very little padding and some roping at the sleeve head (think Brioni with a more sloped shoulder). Double vented of course. Flapped pockets. Pick stitching. Anything else I should consider on the jacket? As for pants, I'm thinking of a slightly lower rise, slightly slimmer fit through the seat, but with a full cut at the cuffs (i.e. straight legged). I'm debating flat front v. pleats, and am thinking that a single forward pleat might be a unique detail that splits the difference between the two styles. Thoughts? As for fabric, I was really like the Loro Piana "Winter Classics," not so aptly named -- they are 120s in a 10 oz. weight that should be good for 3 seasons at least. I was looking at a charcoal with very narrowly spaced fine pinstripes in a medium grey. Pattern -- but not the fabric -- resembles that Congressman suit on Polo.com. Any other suggestions? I want something young and stylish, but don't want to get so crazy that it can't be a staple in my business wardrobe.
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1/17/05 at 8:35pm