Here's a brief description of oxxford's workmanship, taken from the pamphlet (like the ones with Borrelli items): (hope this doesn't sound like a commercial for oxxford; i really just bought my very first item, a sportcoat.) I. ...silk thread, linings, silesias, pocketings, in fact all the trimmings are the very best. buttons are made from the tips of horns that once adorned african water buffalos. II all goods are thoroughly examined, sponged, steamed, and processed b4 cutting. III garments are ind. hand cut with shears for precise accuracy and matching. IV more and wider outlets are provided so that, when nec., the clothes can be let out without losing balance. V each pattern is laid onthe cloth straight- without bias- so the finished garment will keep its shape. VI stripes and plaids are matchd with precise attention to detail. to accomplish this, about 1/4 yard more of material is used than in most other suits. VII b4 an oxxford garment is ready for shipment, it has undergone close scrutiny by competent craftsmen. VIII the sack coat is given far more prep or under-pressings than any other make. the coat "hits the iron' 32 times while in the process of manufacture. this pressing is in addition to the final off pressing of the finished garment. the prep pressings are the cornerstone of oxxford construction. their purpose is to mold into the garment the shape acquired in sewing. IX the oxxford coat front...or hymo, or canvas, as it is sometimes called...is the finest procurable. the canvas is thoroughly cold water shrunk b4 being set in the garment. X the collar and lapels are hand padded with hundreds of fine stitches, to assure softness and proper roll that is sewn in the garment for life. XI the edge tapes of pure linen are felled by hand - on both sides. XII edges themselves are hand stitched, a refinement which still further assures that the edges will be smooth and flat. XIII the armholes are drawn by hand with a chain back-stitch for resiliency, which permits the armhole to give without stretching. XIV for smooth, thin contour, all seams are hand turned and cross stitched. XV the armhole seams are pressed open by hand all around, in order to keep the resiliency, comfort, and thinness. XVI double arm shields are provided, hand felled all the way around, not merely tacked, as is customary. XVII the button holes are made by hand. they are worked on both sides of the opening, really two buttonholes, one on top of the other, for durability and impeccable appearance. XVIII the buttons, sewn on by hand with a strong shank, permit the garment to move freely even when buttoned. XIX another dist. feature of oxxford clothes is the matching body lining and sleeve lining - both ind. hand cut for each particular garment. XX the pockets have linen stays, to prevent sagging,and have complete bellows lining on the inside. the bellows is to permit the pocket to expand to the inside rather than bulge to the outside. XXI each trouser has a secret pocket in the right hand side of the waistband. pictures at: http://www.oxxfordclothes.com/phototour.asp
*whew.* thought this whole thing was interesting, and did sort of convince me to make my next suit an oxxford.