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Frustrated with pants vs. body type

post #1 of 18
Thread Starter 
OK......So I have done many searches and have ended up with very little information. As I continue in my SF endeavor seeing more and more great fits day in and day out (Phat Guido, bmulford, pandarts, yfyf, voxsartoria, just to name a few) that I want to emulate with my own style flare I get very frustrated when I can't seem to get items that work with my body. I do take note that most SF'ers are in rather good shape so I know that of course helps with clothing "fit".

If money were no issue this obviously wouldn't be a problem (MTM, Bespoke), and if I had the time to get back into the gym this would also resolve the issue but at this time in my life (hectic job) time does not permit nor is my mental drive fixed on working out (it's on job and family).

My main issue is with pants. I am 5' 8" and weigh about 212. I used to be very heavy into working out and used to be around 188 and solid. At that time this was not an issue, but life has taken it's toll and now I am 33 with a stocky build along with a little belly. I find that most quality pants (with or without pleats) when worn at my waist just fall to my hips leaving me with a saggy crotch that I just can't stand. I find myself much more comfortable wearing pants at my hips so that I don't have to keep hiking them up just to have them fall right back down again because of my belly. Most pants that I have come to search out on sale forum, e-bay, etc..., that are well respected here on SF have a rise of 11" or more and seem to be made for the pants to be worn at the natural waist which I just can't do. There is a pair of Loro Piana super 120's pants in brown and beige glen plaid on the sales forum that I would love to pick up right now, but they have an 11.5" rise .

It is sad to say but most of my pants are the Express 100% wool producer pants (low rise) because they fit me very well, but there fabric options are very limited and I want to amp up the quality of my wardrobe just like many other SF'ers.

Jackets and shirts can be tailored to fit so my problem resides with pants. Can rise be altered? Am I just screwed and destined to stay in the land of Express? Is the only answer getting my fat ass to the gym? For those of you that have taken the time to read my very long winded post....I appreciate it and welcome any direction, ideas, or makers that will help my cause. Thank you.
post #2 of 18
I'm kinda in the same boat: 5'5", bouncing between 180-185 lbs thus 38W, 44s jacket.
If I find a 44s jacket, it will end up in my closet after the sleeves get taken up. Pants wise, I have really good luck with Lands End, but you got to jump on the short rise pants fast. Once they are gone, rarely ever get them in stock again.

Good luck.
post #3 of 18
Bad news only, I'm afraid. You can't alter the rise on pants. You've got three options:

1. Go to made-to-measure - and be dissatisfied with how you look for the amount of money you spend and then decide to go to the gym,
2. Go to the gym now and spend the money later
3. Live with how you look now

My bet is that you'll pick 2. I know that BMI is a crude benchmark, but by its standards you're carrying 40lbs too much. Address that first and then deal with how you dress.
post #4 of 18
Thread Starter 
There has to be other folks out there with at least similar problems. Can I assume that they all have the financial ability to go with MTM? Are there no brands that have a shorter rise? I am not looking for an ultra low rise to the point that my ass is hanging out of my pants and my member is crushed all day long, but something a little less than 11"-11.5". The pants that I am wearing right now have a 9" rise, and I would say that is pushing ball crunching territory. Is there no maker with a certain model pant that has a 10"-10.5" rise?

Thank you for your input, letmebefell. I wish I could get to the gym and just work off this issue, but I just can't right now. Arman, I will check out Lands End, but I am looking for higher quality wool trousers, or wool/cashmere blends. Thank you for your input.
post #5 of 18
Most of the higher end pant makers have what you are looking for. incotex, Borrelli, Mabitex, Kiton etc. I did not see your waist measurement in your post, but assuming you are between a 32-36, you will not have a problem finding pants with 9.5-10.5 inch rises from the above makers. If your waist size is 38 or above, finding RTW pants with a 10 inch or lower rise is more difficult.
post #6 of 18
Thread Starter 
Thank you edmorel, I will definitely look for styles by those makers on the sales forum and elsewhere. My waist measurement in most pants are 35"-36" with a 30" inseam. Are there certain "style names" within those labels that I should be watching out for (i.e. how certain labels sub-name their different style/fits)?
post #7 of 18
Just have a competent tailor lower the rise.
post #8 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by letmebefell View Post
Bad news only, I'm afraid. You can't alter the rise on pants. You've got three options:

1. Go to made-to-measure - and be dissatisfied with how you look for the amount of money you spend and then decide to go to the gym,
2. Go to the gym now and spend the money later
3. Live with how you look now

My bet is that you'll pick 2. I know that BMI is a crude benchmark, but by its standards you're carrying 40lbs too much. Address that first and then deal with how you dress.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tomasso View Post
Just have a competent tailor lower the rise.

I was under the impression that pant rise could not be altered ?
post #9 of 18
I don't think you will ever find the answer you are looking for. Those guys you named have a different body type than you. The pants drape differently if you have a huge belly vs if you have none.

I can sympathize, I am kind of getting a belly these days, I'm the same age as you. There is no way in hell my suits would as look good if I continue to gain more weight. It has to hang below the belly and then your shirt bulges out, and a suit jacket looks like it's a support sack for your gut. I think what you describe is pretty typical for someone with your body type, even MTM will not be that satisfying.
post #10 of 18
The rise can be altered but my impression is that it basically involves re-making the pants. Whether this results in other compromises, I am not sure.

M
post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt B View Post
The rise can be altered but my impression is that it basically involves re-making the pants.
Lowering the rise is not as involved as a re-cut, if that's what you meant by re-make.
post #12 of 18
Find 30 minutes a day for exercise, and change your diet, the rest will come in time
post #13 of 18
When I was in Italy a few weeks ago, I noticed most pants there were cut with a lower rise. I know that probably doesn't help but if you ever find yourself in Europe you might want to pick some pairs up. Also, you may want to try Zara, H&M, etc for lower rise pants. I know what you are going through. I have trouble finding the same thing.
post #14 of 18
While there will be many dissenters, if you are most concerned with rise then you could look at lower tier garments. J Crew makes low rise dress pants and while they do not compare sartorially to other makes it would address your problem.
post #15 of 18
shortening the rise is a alteration that can be done. the waistband is removed along with the lining. the raw top of the trouser now exposed is cut down by the amount to be shortened. then the waistband and lining are returned. sounds simple but it is time consuming. usually 1" is about the most that is practical. all the pockets will be closer to the waistband. the zipper will be shorter. the total length [outseam] will be shorter.
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