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Custom-tailored suit abroad: breast pocket, cuffs and fabric

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Hi - bit of a newbie question.
What do you guys think of a suit altogether without a breast pocket?
I'm getting a suit tailor-made while I'm visiting India (Vitale Barberis 120s material for $52 a meter!).

The material is navy with wide gold pinstripes (Edit: I mean they are wide apart - the pinstripes themselves are thin). I opted for side vents, 2-button, Italian cut, flap front pockets (the tailor actually mentioned exactly what someone else said on the besom pocket thread when I brought that up: that you can just tuck in the flaps), and slightly longer front. Unfortunately, I didn't check before asking for no breast pocket. Is this okay? This is for interviews and work in an investment banking (hopefully) setting.

I tried on something else that the tailor stitched that was roughly in my size (although the fit was obviously not very close), and it was good enough that I decided to go with him.

Two other questions - what's the stance on pant cuffs? My sister, who works for GAP, Inc recommended against it, but I thought there might be dissenting opinions here; and second, I'm considering getting more material, which is slightly less conservative, I think. What do you think of a suit with alternating equally thick stripes of navy and black, about half a centimeter thick each. The material was excellent by my limited judgment, and looked great, 130s I think, it was about $43 a meter; I just went for the navy pintriped because I figured it was more conservative. What do you guys think? I'm thinking about just getting the material for later anyway.

Also, any and all advice to check for the fit and cut when I go in for the fitting tomorrow, to see if the guy knows what he's about, is welcome and appreciated!

post #2 of 6
Originally Posted by harry2quinn View Post

A suit altogether without a breast pocket?


Originally Posted by harry2quinn View Post

The material is navy with wide gold pinstripes.

This sounds loud. Pictures?
post #3 of 6
so you're planning to have a tailor make you a breast pocketless blue and gold wide striped suit with a slightly longer front? and you also want to have another suit made that's even less conservative? I wouldn't worry much about the fit if you're dead set on getting these.
post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
The pattern's not quite loud, possibly a little bolder than white, but that's about it. It's not like a glaring yellow gold, possibly a cream-ish or even a light copper color, sort of. I wish I could post pictures, but I don't have my camera with me. I'll try to find a similar design online.

*edit* just realized what my description sounded like. The pinstripes aren't wide, they're actually quite thin, maybe one thread. The gap between them is wide, about half an inch - this is what I meant.
God, I just realized the mental image of wide-gold pinstripes and almost retched.

Sigh Knew it was rash to ask for no breast pocket. Calling tailor now, hopefully he can correct it by tomorrow's fitting.

Also, from the slightly derogatory comment about the long front from the gentleman above - may I know if there's a problem with this? Again, just to clarify, I mean that the jacket itself is an inch or some longer than a normal jacket, because the tailor suggested it would make me look taller than my 5.8 thin frame, not that the front is longer than the back or something.

Forgive me, while I don't necessarily have bad taste about what looks good, I may not know the correct terms for what something is, or what the rule of thumb about things like breast pockets might be.
post #5 of 6
Thread Starter 
Nope, he can't put in the breast pocket . Says I might have had a shot if I'd let him know yesterday but he already finished that part. He says there's no way to fix this, gonna ask him about making it just look like there's a pocket there even if there actually isn't...
I guess it's true that you can't get it all right on your first M2M suit.
How much of a faux pas is this? I'm hoping no one will be specifically looking for this, or if they do, not care. I also read another forum online (I think Ask Andy) where they were talking about this being a breast-pocketless style an alternative - albeit an uncommon one - for a dinner jacket, how back in the day suits used to usually go without them. Is this true/does this apply to suits?
post #6 of 6
For many years Jil Sander made suit jackets without breast pockets, and I think that they look good. I have worn these suits in an investment banking environment without anyone passing comment.
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