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Is Denim really this complicated? - Page 2

post #16 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orange View Post
Here are the rules I abide by and they're the ones you should follow too if you're going for the fades and creases.

If we're talking about raw denim put on a size where you can just button the jeans. They should be slightly uncomfortable at this point but they'll stretch out and you'll be thankful you didn't go for a bigger size later.

Don't do a wash before wearing them. It fades better if you wear it for a while before the first wash.

When you need to wash it, do it in cold water and then hang dry them. Doing so will ensure that they won't shrink as much from the hot water or from the dryer.

a lot of wrong info here. your advice might work for one single brand, APC.

If you want to keep it simple, you can probably get away with buying your true size in the waist as the tagged size, for most jeans. Your true size is the measurement of the waist of a pair of jeans you already have and fit well.

There are always exceptions to the rule, some brands measure their waist simply incorrectly, like APC. You will need to try these on or do some research. Sucks, but it's true. To keep it simple you can also simply avoid this brand and all other brands which are known to have sizing issues. I can only think of 2 or 3 brands which are like this.
post #17 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by JoelF View Post
The chance of getting it right on your first pair of $250+ raw denim is virtually zero. Best to budget for 2 or 3 test pairs, plus the one that finally works.
This is crucial. I went through five different pair of jeans, and ended up selling them all or giving them away to goodwill, before I ended up buying the jeans that actually "got it right" for me. Good thing they were all lower end raw denim with the most expensive running at $112, still that was about $400 wasted. Just imagine fucking up like that on jeans that run for $250+.
post #18 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarmac View Post
If you want to keep it simple, you can probably get away with buying your true size in the waist as the tagged size, for most jeans. Your true size is the measurement of the waist of a pair of jeans you already have and fit well. There are always exceptions to the rule, some brands measure their waist simply incorrectly, like APC. You will need to try these on or do some research. Sucks, but it's true. To keep it simple you can also simply avoid this brand and all other brands which are known to have sizing issues. I can only think of 2 or 3 brands which are like this.
Many brands waist are larger than tagged, not just APC. It's called vanity sizing and is very common in the US.
post #19 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Tarmac View Post
a lot of wrong info here. your advice might work for one single brand, APC.

If you want to keep it simple, you can probably get away with buying your true size in the waist as the tagged size, for most jeans. Your true size is the measurement of the waist of a pair of jeans you already have and fit well.

There are always exceptions to the rule, some brands measure their waist simply incorrectly, like APC. You will need to try these on or do some research. Sucks, but it's true. To keep it simple you can also simply avoid this brand and all other brands which are known to have sizing issues. I can only think of 2 or 3 brands which are like this.

I never said anything about sizing down. I only mentioned to keep them snug because all raw denim stretches. Go to any of the high end jean stores and they will offer you the same advice for raw denim. The stretching will probably meansure an inch to an inch and a half.

Washing them in hot water and putting them in a dryer could reduce that stretch but I find it easier to just wash in cold water and to hang dry after sizing down which makes the jeans fit me better.
post #20 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by onion View Post
Many brands waist are larger than tagged, not just APC. It's called vanity sizing and is very common in the US.

I didn't mean douchebag brands. You can try all douchebag brands at the mall, and they don't shrink, so there is no problem there.
post #21 of 28
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by laphroaig View Post
If you're trying on one wash or sanforised jeans, make sure they fit tight because they will stretch.
If you're trying on raw jeans, make sure they fit well because they will shrink after the first hot soak and stretch out again after a bit of wear.

Depending on the jeans, they may never get back all the way to the raw size or they may stretch to bigger than when raw. Some jeans just stretch more than others, so before you leave, read up on the brands and models you are interested in to find out how much people think they end up stretching and compensate based on that.

Finally, ALWAYS do one hot wash (with or without detergent) or at one hot soak of raw jeans before wearing them to destruction.

So this is the way I want to size it? Can anyone confirm? Should I just ignore the other post with the APC fitting method?
post #22 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by jtran33 View Post
So this is the way I want to size it? Can anyone confirm? Should I just ignore the other post with the APC fitting method?

You could but if we're talking 250+ dollar jeans you'll regret it. You have to break jeans in no other way around it.
post #23 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Orange View Post
The jeans will shrink as in contract. The fabric themselves do not shift lol. The destruction will look different but I don't see how they would be in the wrong spots so to say.
Jeans shrink in length as well as in width. They will shorten by several inches in a hot wash and everything on the legs will move up. Of course, if you want to pamper your jeans, i.e. never get them wet and never wash them (especially in hot water) and plan to just dry clean, then you don't need to get the shrinkage out before wearing and just start of raw. But that is too much effort for jeans. They are meant to be abused.
post #24 of 28
wow, didn't know there was so much to denim till recently and it seems like a very interesting process on developing a specific pair you like
post #25 of 28
Get some 514's first, then move up to the more expensive jeans.
post #26 of 28
It's much simpler than it sounds. It's just that when people are searching for top notch shit and dropping 200 bones + for their jawnz, the nuances really become apparent.
post #27 of 28
^ I think it's forum paranoia rubbing off on newbies, more so than money.

Denim isn't complicated. In fact, it could probably be summarized in 3 steps:

1) Buy jeans
2) If jeans are not pre shrunk, soak jeans. If they are pre shrunk, no soak necessary.
3) Wear jeans.
post #28 of 28
No kidding it can be complicated...

For you:
  1. B/e Japan: research to narrow down choices
  2. In Japan: listen to the store associate (but I'm not sure if all of them can be trusted?)
  3. In Japan: try diferent jeans (but be aware that the fit would generally change)
  4. In Japan: still got Internet - post questions here
  5. Finally: yes, be prepared that you may not get it "juuust" right the first couple of times; some people are lucky and get what they like (or get used to what they got), others are less lucky or maybe more demanding

You may also be able to sell the jeans here if they don't work out...

Just for reference, let me give you a personal example: (among others) I have Diesels Rabox and Levi's 501 both in waist 32. Rabox falls off (vanity sizing?), 501 is a bit loose after the washer and dryer (= before stretching from wear, then even looser, of course). I was looking for something with a normal / higher rise and am very happy with the forum recommendation to try Sugar Cane Okinawa (Japanese repro 501 from '47) - it was dead on. A couple of other recommendations from the forum had features that I don't think look good on me - like low back pockets. I.e. - you still have to make a decision on your own

So: when I was researching for Sugar Cane size, I was told that they are true to size, and also that they are smaller than tagged. I got Sugar Cane in 32 (which is larger than my true size right now)and in retrospect they could certainly be 31 and maybe even 30. Fit is not exactly what I wanted, but they still fit *well* - just don't hug my thighs and butt as much as I wanted. The original 501 was not designed to hug thighs and butt too much, so I'm closer to the *intended* fit than my ideal *interpretation* - that's OK

Personally - if I'm buying these again I would go for a smaller size. BUT: by then I may have gained weight / muscle, or dropped - my weight varies. So you never know...

I hope this helps
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