Styleforum members may not be aware that there is a world-class bespoke operation in Birmingham, Michigan. I am a customer at Paul Cicchini Custom Clothier, and a couple days ago, the shop graciously allowed me to take some photographs. This is a rare behind the scenes look at bespoke suit making. The shop is named for Paul Cicchini, who is a noted tailor and highly honored member (and former President) of the CTDA. Although I have seen posts here speculating to the contrary, Mr. Cicchini is still quite active at the shop. I just recently saw him sewing away at patch pockets on an odd jacket. Mr. Cicchini is originally from Vasto, Italy and is in his eighties. The main area of the store is dedicated to luxury ready-to-wear. However, this post will concentrate on the tailoring operation. Here is the cloth room--the selection and quality of cloth compares favorably with what I have seen in New York. In addition to the full-on bespoke, they offer a CMT option, which results in a product somewhere between MTM and bespoke. I have couple suits from them made this way. Now, on to the workroom, where garments are made in-house completely by hand. This picture was taken after hours. During the day this room is bustling with people making garments. Cicchini has 10-15 tailors on staff. These are not mere alterations tailors--most come from Italy, and many are trained pattern makers as well as sewers. Paper patterns for the "bench grade" suits. Suit in progress: Two exquisite chalkstripe jackets--One is blue and the other brown. Detail of Cicchini brown chalkstripe jacket lying on the work table. This suit was really impressive to see in person.
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8/23/08 at 3:07pm