Please critique my Nialma shirt

I'm pretty happy with the trunk, but the sleeves definitely need some work. If I were to guess, I'd say...

1. Cuffs too small, making my wrists seem really puny. How much should I add, an inch or so?

2. Sleeves too long. You can see that they hang a lot better when they're unbuttoned, but when I button them, they bunch up. Here again, would an inch be the right amount to take away?

3. Sleeves too wide/billowy. I'd like them to fit a little closer. Would I do that by adjusting the width of the armholes? Any suggestions on how much?

4. What about the sleeveheads/shoulder seams? Are they in about the right place, or should they be a little farther inward?

5. Finally, you can see that there's some extra fabric in the underarm area. Reducing the armhole measurement might take care of this, but I was also wondering if the chest measurement might be slightly too large.

I'd be grateful for any feedback. I should mention I'd also like to be able to wear this casually, untucked and unbuttoned at the top.

Also, I'll just give Nialma a thumbs up. I clearly need to make some adjustments to the measurements here, but I was really happy with their communication and turnaround time. Also, I'm no expert, but I really like this fabric. I got the one listed as "Classic Rich, Soft White Twill," and I do find it really soft and comfortable.

Thanks a ton for any help.

Oh, and no need to point out how crappy those khakis are. I'm working on it.

One more pic...

cuffs are definitely too small. If it were my shirt, i would just wear it with the sleeves rolled up

not bad.
Has the shirt been washed more then once?
if ir has been washed, shorten sleeves 1"
if it has not been washed, shorten 1/2"
add 1/4-1/2" to cuff circumfrence

add to chest at least 1.5" it is too tight. i would also add at least an 1" to waist and hips
I would add darts to the back if you are looking for a super slim shirt.
remember this is a dress shirt. not a t-shirt. you need room to move
you are lrft low on the shoulder.
A back photo would help

Carl

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

Click to expand...

not bad.
Has the shirt been washed more then once?
if ir has been washed, shorten sleeves 1"
if it has not been washed, shorten 1/2"
add 1/4-1/2" to cuff circumfrence

add to chest at least 1.5" it is too tight. i would also add at least an 1" to waist and hips
I would add darts to the back if you are looking for a super slim shirt.
remember this is a dress shirt. not a t-shirt. you need room to move
you are lrft low on the shoulder.
A back photo would help

Carl
So the crease in the armpit/chest area is because he needs to increase the chest? I have the same problem, and like the poster I thought my shirt chest measurement was too big.

I really appreciate the help. The shirt has been washed and worn a few times, so I'll take your advice, Carl, and shorten the sleeves by 1" and add 1/2" to the cuffs. I'll also take your advice on the chest, waist, and hips. I was going for a slim fit, but I'll go a little roomier if it'll hang better. The shoulder seams/sleeveheads look OK though? But jeez, from the back, I can really see what you mean about one shoulder being lower. Is it the same shoulder that you noticed in the front shots? I can't see it as clearly from the front. Not sure what to do about that. I guess a custom shirtmaker could deemphasize it a little with a split yoke? Probably difficult to manage online however. I'm moving out to San Francisco on Tuesday, or I'd think about coming up to New York for a visit to your shop. Hmm... I'll have to ponder this a little. It's gonna bug me to have the line of the yoke running diagonally like that. Any good (not super expensive) custom shirtmakers in San Francisco perhaps? A search here didn't turn up very much.

Shirt looks almost there I have a split yoke with different shoulder lengths on all of my Nialma shirts. I Email them and make special requests before ordering they also asked me for an extra measurement across my back. Maybe it will help sort that? My left shoulder goes up exactly the same as yours

Thanks, coogie!

That's a good idea to just ask Nialma if they can adjust for the shoulder tilt. They were very responsive and helpful on the first go-round.

What did they do in your case, does the yoke come down a little farther on the higher shoulder, so that the line of the yoke looks straight? Although then you've got a straight line, but the yoke is bigger on one side. It's hard for me to picture quite how to effectively compensate.

Of course, I may also just decide to live with it...

They asked me to measure the shoulders normally to check the measurement, but measure from the middle (neck) down to each shoulder. The two measurements should add up to the same as the normal shoulder measurement of course. My left shoulder is about 0.25 inches shorter than my right ! They then make a line/seam down the middle of the neck (a split-yoke) with the different shoulder measurements for each shoulder. I think it solved the problem for me, and my posture is almost exactly the same as yours. Also they had another measurement they wanted me to take (i emailed a picture of my back), it was on the back from under one armpit to the other. But I think that is unrelated and to get rid of bunching