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Puckered collars on suit jackets?

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
Noticed recently in Intolerable Cruelty that most of George Clooney's jackets collars were "puckered" (not sure if this is the term but sort of bubbled) around the seams and not ironed out . And I presume he was wearing quality suits. I have also seen this on upmarket suits from Zegna and even Brioni and Oxxford (from pics on eBay and in stores). My question is - is this a flaw of manufacture or is it considered acceptable? ** EDIT** I have also seen this on cheap suits like Cerruti which is fused.
post #2 of 6
I think that you're talking about the hand-finishing on the lapels. It's actually considered by some to be the mark of a good suit.
post #3 of 6
The "puckering" you see is the evidence of hand tailoring, in contrast to a machine which produces clean, flat, and nearly invisible seams. Some machine-made suits will include touches of hand tailoring in the most visible parts of a coat--the lapels and the pockets. A small and savvy group of people considers the evidence of hand tailoring desirable because it shows the work of the human hand, faults and all. It also appeals to people who have an appreciation for artisinal products and the labor and craftsmanship that go into creating them.
post #4 of 6
Do you have a particular picture about this 'puckering' suit?
post #5 of 6
Or, the "puckering" could be the result of a cheaply fused suit---pieces of the garment glued together. After a few trips to the dry cleaners, the heat of the cleaning process causes a breakdown of the glue and the cloth puckers. Zegna is famous for fusing their suits.
post #6 of 6
Hmm, Is it really good to have the edge of the lapel pucker? I always figured that the lapel should be smooth. Maybe you are refering to something else, like pic-stitching(spelling correct?). I haven't seen the movie so I can't comment on it particularly. I would like to know everyone's comment, this is a good topic to discuss. I figure that puckering of any kind is not desired. Isn't the concept for the suit to be of smooth, clean lines? -HitMan009
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