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Sartorial Color Photos From 1940 - A Look Back - Page 2

post #16 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post
Take a careful look at the "bum" on the far left and how the shoulder of his coat is cut.

The shoulder seam appears angled backwards like this:
This is a feature found today only on high end bespoke items. You will see it on a Rubinacci but not on an Attolini, Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford, or Borelli. It is a sign that the arm scye has been cut as a backwardly angled oval shape, to help make the scye depth as shallow as possible. It is also thought to make the collar snugger and improves the fit around the neck-shoulder area.

This is hyperbole. You'll also find it on Vestimenta RTW, among other places. IIRC, David Chu might have done some of his shoulders that way the first year, but I couldn't swear to it.
post #17 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post
Take a careful look at the "bum" on the far left and how the shoulder of his coat is cut.

The shoulder seam appears angled backwards like this:


Sator, that's a great observation. I have also noticed this feature on vintage clothing.

This is a suit from the late 1940's:

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sator View Post
This is a feature found today only on high end bespoke items. You will see it on a Rubinacci but not on an Attolini, Kiton, Brioni, Oxxford, or Borelli.

But wait! What's going on here? This is an Oxxford DB I bought on ebay new with tags--it has to be only a couple years old. It also has that kind of shoulder seam.
post #18 of 59
If only men still had such style.
post #19 of 59
Quote:
Originally Posted by grimslade View Post
This is hyperbole. You'll also find it on Vestimenta RTW, among other places. IIRC, David Chu might have done some of his shoulders that way the first year, but I couldn't swear to it.

I've personally never seen it on RTW. It is certainly possible but takes a bit more effort in the making up of the coat. It is an effort most makers won't make and certainly not any maker that a bum might wear today.
post #20 of 59
Bums, coats, seams...who cares. The pic of the girl is beautiful.
post #21 of 59
post #22 of 59
^^^ This picture makes me die a little inside.
post #23 of 59


That is one amazing picture of NY.
post #24 of 59
Those are awesome pics on the site, I got to see my town from 60+ years ago and the land where my college was built on before the school. I found this one funny, OUCH ! Favorite
post #25 of 59
Old pictures are great. Here are a couple of pictures from my neighbourhood in 1907. Standards have changed somewhat. People don't even dress this well for weddings anymore. These people are going to a baseball game: I couldn't imagine buying tires from someone in a double breasted or three piece suit. Unreal:
post #26 of 59
...
post #27 of 59
...a few observations regarding the wonderful pictures on the site:

---love the floppy unfused collars

---many men really did wear brown shoes back in the 1940's.

---The people are really slender! There are not that many pot bellies. No fat girls on the beach. I wonder if the photographer deliberately took pictures of attractive subjects only.
post #28 of 59
This man was ahead of his time. Anticipating the catwalk couture house styles of our time, he named his goat Dandy:



This view of Regent St, London in 1961 is interesting. The man appears to be wearing a bowler hat:

post #29 of 59
How about this for women's daywear in San Francisco?

post #30 of 59
Here is a street hawker in London:



I wonder if you would see a crowd gathering dressed like this today.

A "battery bum":



Note the belted back on the coat.
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