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Fitting a Suit to Your Body Type - Page 2

post #16 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by beirut View Post
My body type is caused by a rather severe case of Crohn's disease, so it isn't changing any time soon. Actually, I eat 8 large meals a day to keep this "bulky" size. I'm willing to go MTM, if not bespoke, to find a suit that fits. My problem right now is that I don't know what features would complement my shape going into it. I LOVE three piece suits, although it's still unclear to me whether they are a fashion faux pas or not, but I'm not sure if a vest would contrast my body type too much. Any advice at all would be appreciated.
3p suits are fine, you could always skip the vest to make it a 2 piece. At your size bespoke is probably the best way to go as altering 38/36 patterns down to your size would still be too drastic a change. Try to select balder/larger prints to bulk you up visually. AVOID TRIM CLOTHES, you wouldn't want to appear like Dior Homme models. Have the tailor cut everything full, instead of close fitting and trim. Think Duke of Windsor (fitting but baggy style suits) instead of Ralph Lauren Black Label (fitting and trim suits) or Thom Brown.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I'm skeptical of rules attempting to match fits and styles to body types. It matters much more that something fits right. Anyway, a lot of rules just seem plain wrong to me. Larger fellows are often told they should wear longer, narrower point collars. The result is usually pretty egregious. I suspect a secret coalition of men's fashion magazines and menswear salespeople come up with these things.
how do you explain ill fitting by design then, such as yohji yamamoto or tom brown? or, beating the dead horse again, your great fitting but ill designed jacket?
post #17 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by vitaminc View Post
how do you explain ill fitting by design then, such as yohji yamamoto or tom brown? or, beating the dead horse again, your great fitting but ill designed jacket?

The answers to your questions are in your questions.
post #18 of 27
I dunno', there's only so much that clothing can do. If you go too full, you make yourself like wimpy in comparison to your clothing. Embrace your body type, if anything now is the time because the market has many options for tall skinny people. Why avoid looking like a Dior Homme model if that's what he basically is?
post #19 of 27
A designer suit is probably the only hope for a man's suit that can be tailored to fit such a body type. If that works in an "academic" environment, then go for it (and a corresponding slim tie, probably not black). Assuming the face is being pinched by starvation, go with a semi-spread collar to counter that. Since the unfortunate Crohn's probably means the feet look big compared to the rest of the body, downplay them with for example black captoe balmorals with closely cut, non-chunky soles.
post #20 of 27
Don't feel too terrible about your condition. Your dark cloud comes with a serious silver lining. Any kind of thinness - even disease induced, unless there is a risk that this will really kill you - is enviable in someone living in the rich West. Enjoy the fact that you can eat amounts that others can't even dream about. Most people spend their entire lives worrying about being fat.

When people think "wow that guy is scarily thin" it comes with no where near the venom that accompanies "what a fat ass." Anyway, embracing the Dior Homme look might be the way to go. Such a look won't even look that tight and unconservative on you. Super thin people in trim clothes still look better than those in baggy clothes. However, avoid the super slim black tie and go with a slim patterned tie. I think slightly lighter colors and patterned fabrics are a good way to go. The waistcoat sounds like a good idea.
post #21 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by mensimageconsultant View Post
Assuming the face is being pinched by starvation, go with a semi-spread collar to counter that.

So wrong.
post #22 of 27
I'd go for Dior Homme or any of those assorted trim designer brands out there.
post #23 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lel View Post
I dunno', there's only so much that clothing can do. If you go too full, you make yourself like wimpy in comparison to your clothing. Embrace your body type, if anything now is the time because the market has many options for tall skinny people. Why avoid looking like a Dior Homme model if that's what he basically is?

I agree. Coco Chanel said you should take your worst feature and make it the focus of your look. It will make you distinctive, stylish and memorable. Many people would love to look like a Dior model. Make lemonade!
post #24 of 27
Look towards bespoke british fits (for reference). Young British gentlemen since the beginnings of history have tended towards the [very] slender; you too can benefit from the sharply structured tailoring best showcased at houses like Huntsman. I actually have a friend who is your size, exceptionally well-dressed, and his secret is in the structured tailoring. I stridently disagree with everyone here who has suggested that you try to camoflage your proportions with extra fabric, no matter how well tailored. This will not end well as a the suit always depends on the body for its shape; where there is no body, there will be no shape. As for the specifics (based again on my friend's wardrobe): Go Made to Measure or, if you can afford it, full bespoke. If you can fly out to Hong Kong, I have some tailors to recommend you. The problem with made to measure is that the tailors are still working from a model which is based on a girthier man. The only place you will be able to find OTR cuts that fit is in Sweden. Brands like Tiger, J. Lindberg, and Eton will fit you better than anything you can find in America, although you will have to pick and chose as their clothing is quite modish. When finding shirts look for spread collars (if you have a long neck consider two-button) or button downs (as per academic dress code). Skinny ties are a must; you will have no problem finding these. Flat-front trousers; never pleated. Don't worry- you can have belt loops and cuffs, just not pleats, as they will add unnecessary room. Have your pants cut with very little break. As for the jackets- as I mentioned, look to places like Huntsman. A&S is probably too soft a fit for you, Geives and Hawkes will be another good, structured, jacket and has started a discounted MTM line. I would tend to advise that you not buy from these places, but instead use them as inspiration when having clothing made elsewhere. The exchange rate alone is a deal killer. Don't listen to people advising you against pinstripe or three piece suits. You can wear whatever you want as long as it is subtly textured and exceptionally well cut. I would advise against italian brands because they often use bolder fabrics (harder pinstripes for example) and softer cuts. Good luck finding something that works, by all means message me if you want the name of a good tailor in HK. EIx2
post #25 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by beirut View Post
Hello SFers!

I'm currently in the process of transforming myself from a rag wearing college student into a well-dressed, well spoken academic, but I've run into some problems along the way. After lurking in The Forum for a few weeks I've learned a great deal about suit materials, construction, and styles, but I still don't understand how to pair suit features to my body type.

I'm 6'1", but I weigh only 122lbs. I guess you can say I'm a bit "skeletal." Is it stylish for me to appear tall and skinny, or should I try to avoid elongating my form further? What type of shirt collar, button height, lapel width, tie width, and other suit features would complement my slim form to accomplish this (why? I really want to learn)?
Beirut,

Please try the website: http://www.ctda.com

And Choose FIND A TAILOR.

You'll be thrilled with the outcome and will have someone to help direct to what looks fabulous on you.

Good Luck!
nat
post #26 of 27
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
So wrong.

That's not constructive criticism. If you're thinking of a neck that's long and skinny, then probably the typical off-the-rack semi-spread collar dress shirt wouldn't be flattering, but a relatively high collar with that spread sounds like a good fit.
post #27 of 27
You might want to check out Philippe Dubuc; a designer based in Montreal. Dubuc himself is about 6'4"/155 lbs (or so the store clerk told me) and he designs clothes that would fit him well. I'm 6' / 160 lbs and his suits are pretty snug on me.
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