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Modified Brooks Brothers OCBD: Improvement or Crime against Nature?

post #1 of 103
Thread Starter 
Over the years, I've bought more than a dozen OCBDs from Brooks Brothers and gave Mercer a crack. I would've tried J. Press, but their stock shirts are tents on me and they don't do made-to-measure OCBDs. Until now, no OCBD has completely satisfied me.

So, I decided to give Brooks Brothers' made-to-measure program another try--but this time, I implemented some modifications to the classic format.




To make the collar higher and improve the collar roll, I had them implement a two-button collar. The old, single-button collar tended to flatten on my neck; this one stays up and looks better with a jacket. In the interest of making the shirt dressier, I also replaced the standard placket with a French placket (or 'no placket', if you prefer).




I've never liked the way a rounded barrel cuff looks poking out of a jacket sleeve, so I got rid of the standard OCBD cuff and added a two-button mitered cuff.

I also eliminated the chest pocket and back pleats. The final shirt is more usable to me. Worn by itself, it looks dressier. It also looks better with a jacket and tie since the collar stands up better and there is more space for a tie knot. Yet, it works just as well as the original when worn casually with jeans, and it's just as durable.

Thoughts? Have I created something that shouldn't be?
post #2 of 103
The changes you made sound good to me and in line with changes I'd consider making myself given the occasion, certainly no crime against nature has been committed How about some pics of your modified OCBD in action?
post #3 of 103
I don't think it's a big deal.

The Italian RTW shirtmakers do this type of stuff all the time with the BD format, so if it is a sin against those who treat the Ivy League look as a set costume, well, it is a sin that has been committed many times over already.

Is a two button collar close really a BB MTM option? I guess it must be...

At least you didn't put double-cuffs on it....

Overall, though, I prefer Thom Browne's stock version of the BB OCBD to yours, but I doubt any of his standard sizes would fit you.


- B
post #4 of 103
I just don't know about the two-button collar on an OCBD.
post #5 of 103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirSuturesALot View Post
How about some pics of your modified OCBD in action?

Maybe after I fail the bar next week.

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
The Italian RTW shirtmakers do this type of stuff all the time with the BD format, so if it is a sin against those who treat the Ivy League look as a set costume, well, it is a sin that has been committed many times over already.

Well, I've never wanted to emulate the 'Ivy Leaguge' look; I just like certain elements associated with it.

Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Is a two button collar close really a BB MTM option?

Yessir. The photo was for proof.
post #6 of 103
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
I just don't know about the two-button collar on an OCBD.

I would have considered a higher, one-button collar, but they can't do that for some reason.
post #7 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
I just don't know about the two-button collar on an OCBD.

I have several Borrellis like this, but they are executed with a bit more refinement than the BB MTM version that M. commissioned...the two buttons at the collar are staggered on the Borrellis.

It does result in a higher neck, which is something that I prefer for myself, and I guess M. does as well.

There's an element of overkill to it, but why worry if it works.


- B
post #8 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by mafoofan View Post
I would have considered a higher, one-button collar, but they can't do that for some reason.

Why can't Matuozzo make you an OCBD?
post #9 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
Why can't Matuozzo make you an OCBD?

Haaaaa!

How about Kabbaz?

- B
post #10 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by RJman View Post
Why can't Bijan make you an OCBD?
What are you, mini-tep?
post #11 of 103
I don't like it. I don't know if I am just being a purist, or if that is my considered aethetic judgement. Maybe a bit of both.

I modified the classic design a little with my CEGO OCBDs, but not that much.

Keep in mind I have never liked mitered or two button cuffs. I also don't like French fronts. And I agree with Captain Snark that a two button collar on an OCBD just seems transgressional in a bad way.
post #12 of 103
I don't think OCBD's should be so "formal." They are inherently casual shirts. French placket, mitered cuff...
post #13 of 103
I like it. I would buy it.

The button down collar alone signifies a more casual shirt, anything beyond that is just preference and most people will not notice.
post #14 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by voxsartoria View Post
Haaaaa!

How about Kabbaz?

- B
That would be a Triple K D then.

Quote:
Originally Posted by iammatt View Post
What are you, mini-tep?
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
Captain Snark... OCBD
Am I supposed to be flattered?

Is OCBD a CBD OBCD?
post #15 of 103
Quote:
Originally Posted by Manton View Post
I don't like it. I don't know if I am just being a purist, or if that is my considered aethetic judgement. Maybe a bit of both.

What if M. left one of the two collar buttons unbuttoned...you know, to show that it's online MTM and not what the BB hoi polloi who walk out of the store at the semi-annual sale wear.

Same thing with the two button barrel cuffs. Button three of the four.

- B
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