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Rolled two button suit?

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
I just got and HF boardroom suit off of ebay.  I didnt' notice when i first got it but today i went to wear a pocket sqaure with it and i noticed that the lapel covered half the pocket.  Looking closer i noticed that the lappel rolled the first top button.  I have never seen this before (still new to suits) and was wondering if this is common or if the suit was not properly stored and i should have the lapel re-pressed? Editne last question, the suit is only half-lined, is this good/bad, i think i briefly remember Flusser saying something about this in his book and how it cost more but most people think its cheaper? thanks Nik
post #2 of 17
I can't answer your first question, but all of the Oxxford jackets that I've seen are half-lined, if this is any indication of the quality.
post #3 of 17
I'm pretty new to this stuff too, but if I understand correctly, the lapel rolls, rather than "folds?"  If so, isn't that a good thing.  I wouldn't press the lapel.  Or do you mean that it is rolling beyond the point that it was made to roll?  I've always been under the impression that a good suit has a nice roll to the lapel, as opposed to more of a creased fold. edit: is it perhaps a two and a half button suit that you are mistaking for a three button? Dan
post #4 of 17
My "new" Hickey Freeman, currently being altered, is also only partially lined. The thinking is (so I understand) that the suit has to be well made in order for the maker to be willing to show the inside seams. A lot of sloppy work can be covered up by a lining. A vintage Norman Hilton suit that I'll eventually put on ebay (44L anyone?) is of the same level as H-F and is also only partially lined.
post #5 of 17
Thread Starter 
I might not fully understand "rolled lapel" so i may have used the term incorrectly. What i mean is the lapels are covering the first button hole out of 2 and that the lapels are covering half of the breast pocket.
post #6 of 17
The lapel covering half of the breast pocket is normal, ie: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws....37&rd=1 But the lapel shouldn't be covering the button hole entirely, though the lapel may roll slightly onto the button, such as in the suit linked to. Do you mean the lapel completely obscures the button when the suit is buttoned? Or is it like the Borrelli? Dan
post #7 of 17
Is this a two- or three-button suit? If it's a two (as from your posts I think it is) then the lapel should NOT roll over the top button. The roll should end just above that button. Covering a little of the breast pocket is a nice touch. Covering half is a bit much.
post #8 of 17
I disagree with the first point, Manton. I have seen many 2 buttons where the lapel rolls slightly over the top button -- several of the new Greenfield Golden Fleece models at BB are a good example. Now, it might be a matter of preference that the roll stops right at the top corner of the button hole, but it is not mandatory.
post #9 of 17
posting pic. with you wearing the jacket will recieve better suggestions.
post #10 of 17
A suit with partial lining is more labor intensive than a suit that's fully lined because the interior seams need to be finished.  Thus many believe that a partially lined suit to be of higher quality.  Fuller mentions that Americans could not comprehend this, and assumed that a fully lined coat was superior - so manufacturers made nearly all coats for America with full linings. Instead of an indicator of quality, I would describe the lining as a feature.  Partial lining is less bulky and cooler, so it's more common to see it on a lightweight summer suit. You can't look at it as a direct relationship with quality because although Oxxfords come partially lined, so does my fused Armani.
post #11 of 17
About half the Oxxfords I saw on my last trip to Filene's Basement were fully lined...are they changing their practice?
post #12 of 17
Thread Starter 
Here are some pics In the pic of the jacket button it does not seem as bad, but its the way i was holding the camera.  Its a little more dramatic and you can make out a little bit of lapel "rolling" over the button.  I'm not sure if this is a good or bad but all my other suits dont do this. Comments welcome. Also in the picture of the pocket square half the pocket is covered. Edit: Please ignore the shirt as well, its not something i would ever wear with this suit just what i was wearing at the time.
post #13 of 17
I don't think you've got a problem with the lapels and chest pocket. It simply makes your pocket square more subtle, which isn't a bad thing. I don't know that the lapel roll is that big an issue, either. Actually, I think pics less close up might be of more help.
post #14 of 17
I think it is rolled a little far, but it's not that bad. Chances are if it has been stored at all it could do with at least a good steaming to pop the lapel back into shape. IIRC the HF Boardroom has pad stitched lapels (correct me if I'm wrong) so it should snap back to the way it was meant to be. The pic with the button done up looks okay but as you said the breast pocket is covered a little much. Give it a shot of steam from underneath the lapel and see if it improves any. In any case, don't agonize, it looks pretty good as-is.
post #15 of 17
If you wear it buttoned (like you should), I don't see the problem.
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