Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned?

You started the process with Thurston without knowing what they do?

Understatesman said:

So it leaves me wondering these questions. What does she mean "we'll need to investigate the Japanese pattern sizing with Vanson"? Is Vanson not making my jacket? Who is we? If Thurston is a different maker, will they have access to the same hides Vanson does? My cowhide on the 9B is apparently somewhat unique and that's part of why I like it so much.

Click to expand...

I wonder if someone you're already corresponding with, like for instance Carrie, could answer those questions.

sounds like thurston is the liaison between you and vanson

oulipien said:

You started the process with Thurston without knowing what they do?



I wonder if someone you're already corresponding with, like for instance Carrie, could answer those questions.

Click to expand...

His whole experience with buying leather jackets can be summed by saying he starts the process without knowing what he's doing (and gives tax advice along the way).

Fuuma said:

His whole experience with buying jacket can be summed up with starting the process without knowing what he's doing (and giving tax advice along the way).

Click to expand...

Understatesman said:

Can you expand on this? What exactly is Thurston, a brand of jacket maker? A retailer of other brands? Who would be making/branding the custom jacket, Thurston or Vanson?

Click to expand...

Thurston is a leather jacket and motorcycle supply dealer in Seattle, which is pretty much the best way to get MTO/MTM for their stocked brands (currently Aero, Vanson, and Thedi) because they will send you a stock jacket of the same pattern in your size, and have you try it on so they have a sizing reference point for your custom order, so it avoids the pitfalls of placing the MTO spec site unseen. They also have their own queue so you basically jump to the front of the customs line with each maker.

They also are able to source some exclusive leathers that you can't get from these makers directly. (They were Aero's original hookup for Vicenza horsehide, they also supply Bainbridge and Vancouver cowhides to Vanson and Aero etc). Some patterns (Aero's Ridley for instance) are exclusive Thurston jackets and they have some of their own exclusive Vansons as well, however they can source you anything that those brands make. They can even hook you up with the Japanese market patterns/models.

Carrie put through an order for me with all the 1950s jacket details and trims I like, but in the slim modern Ridley pattern, for example.

Understatesman said:

I've started the process with Carrie and this was her first email to me: "The specs that you want are no problem! Let's do this...we'll start the custom process with a deposit of $600. If we get into the sizing and it turns out that we need to send you a jacket for fitting (we'll need to investigate the Japanese pattern sizing with Vanson), then we'll figure it out at that point."

Click to expand...

"We" there refers to Thurston and Vanson.

Understatesman said:

So it leaves me wondering these questions. What does she mean "we'll need to investigate the Japanese pattern sizing with Vanson"? Is Vanson not making my jacket? Who is we? If Thurston is a different maker, will they have access to the same hides Vanson does? My cowhide on the 9B is apparently somewhat unique and that's part of why I like it so much.

Click to expand...

Vanson would be making your jacket. She just means she'd want to make sure you're getting the exact pattern/model that you currently have, not a superficially similar jacket with a different pattern.

If Vanson has tweaked the pattern since your jacket was made, she'd send you a 'fit jacket' (i.e. a jacket in the current version of that pattern) to try on and take pictures in, so she can make sure Vanson has those fit pics/sizing notes as a reference while making your custom.

I just went through this process myself, so it's fresh in mind.

^ Awesome! Sounds like this should be good. Last question: How long was the turnaround, from paying deposit to receiving your final jacket?

The gift that keeps on giving…

Understatesman said:

^ Awesome! Sounds like this should be good. Last question: How long was the turnaround, from paying deposit to receiving your final jacket?

Click to expand...

That'll depend because the leather industry is experiencing some shortages across the board, so for instance my jacket hasn't been made yet because the specific leather I want has been low in production so far. This should be less of a problem with Vanson because they have a smaller variety of leathers though COVID also means some degree of delay. Thurston is still faster than a direct order, though, because they get x number of slots for each month.

The order will be put through to Vanson after you've tried on the fit jacket, so they can include the fit notes. But yeah, this is the best way to order from those makers in the US– especially in the case of Thedi since it avoids the language/cross cultural communication issues of dealing with a Greek workshop.

Understatesman said:

View attachment 1689243

Click to expand...

my go to quote for ridiculousness

Understatesman said:

^ Awesome! Sounds like this should be good. Last question: How long was the turnaround, from paying deposit to receiving your final jacket?

Click to expand...

guessing 3-6 months

I visited the Vanson factory a few times over the years and really enjoyed it. I tried a jacket in their midweight leather but eventually sold it. It doesn't seem to age, crease or change at all. Obviously that's a good trait for most consumers but wasn't what I was after. The old competition weight moto jackets on display are a stunning sight.

I keep looking at old Bates, Beck, Brooks, Kehoe, etc. jackets (and Vanson's) and thinking they may scratch that itch for me as a replacement cafe racer. My RMC J100 is broken in relatively nicely after 2 years of ownership but it's too big now. Fortunately I can still wear the dark sea/brown vicenza board racer.

3-6 months?? WTF?!?!?!?

patrick_b said:

I visited the Vanson factory a few times over the years and really enjoyed it. I tried a jacket in their midweight leather but eventually sold it. It doesn't seem to age, crease or change at all. Obviously that's a good trait for most consumers but wasn't what I was after. The old competition weight moto jackets on display are a stunning sight.

Click to expand...

My bro lives in Seattle. I really should make a trip out there and do this right.

Understatesman said:

The original Vanson.

View attachment 1689165

Click to expand...

Let me know if/when you let this one go.

Understatesman said:

^ Awesome! Sounds like this should be good. Last question: How long was the turnaround, from paying deposit to receiving your final jacket?

Click to expand...

I can't speak for Vanson, but I can tell you Thedi is 6+ months through Thurston. I started my custom process back in late March. Got a fitting jacket and made some fit tweaks. Then, we went through the specs and leather selection process. I think my order went in at the last couple days of April. She said approximately 5-6 months at the time. October is the 6th month, so I'm hoping to get it in November. We shall see. Don't know the turnaround times for Vanson, obviously, but I'd say buckle up.