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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? - Page 1027post #15392 of 166553/4/16 at 4:32ampost #15393 of 166553/4/16 at 5:44ampost #15394 of 166553/4/16 at 6:49amQuote:
I just worked with them on a jacket. Essentially they took their Ridley jacket (a more slim cut) and gave it the features of a J106 (a more boxy cut but has a D pocket) and were even able to slim that down for me. you definitely can to a certain extend but I didn't need much alteration other than an inch smaller in the waist and a half inch longer sleevepost #15395 of 166553/4/16 at 8:08ampost #15396 of 166553/4/16 at 8:19ampost #15397 of 166553/4/16 at 9:11ampost #15398 of 166553/4/16 at 9:26amQuote:
They don't do pattern remakes, afaik, but they will do things like adjust the sleeve and body length, and also change the taper in the jacket (contratry to popular belief, decreasing the taper and sizing down is actually what makes a jacket more "slim". Essentially, the shoulders, chest, and back, are narrower compared to the waist.
Some jacket styles are inherently slimmer than others. The board racer is one of those: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=2213
After my initial post, I received some rather angry emails and phone calls from Carrie at Thurston Bros (sorry Carrie, but I work all day, and it's my policy to not answer work calls during my workouts), asking that I fix factual errors in my post that she felt was damaging to her business. So here is my amended, factual post re. pros and cons about ordering from Thurston Bros. vs. ordering directly from Aero. Some people have been asking for this anyway, so it's as good a time as any to post:
Ordering from Thurston Bros:
I have two jackets from Thurston Bros, a cafe racer and a 1930s halfbelt. At the time when I ordered, both jackets were $1100. I see that the price has not changed, and that the upgrade to the Vicenzia leather is +$125, or $1225 (actually, both prices are $0.01 under the prices I just posted, but you actually can't get a piece of cheap gum for $0.01, so...) In stock items are the same price. Most of their models are $1099 or $$1224, depending on the leather. The "premium" models are nearly all $100 more, starting at $1199.
This included the fit jacket system, which is very useful, particularly if you are ordering a jacket for the first time. Thurston will send you out a "fit" jacket from their regular stock, and you can adjust sizing from there. The sizing change options that I was given at that time were lengthening or shortening the sleeves, and lengthening or shortening the torso.
Thurston Bros also has some nice models that are not offered as standard models from Aero directly, like the Fontana cafe racer. If you want one of those, get it from Thurston. Getting the angles for pockets correct can be a huge pain, and this may or may not be a special commission. There are others, like the "Sheene", a collared board racer, that seem more like a very nicely Frankensteined jacket.
They also have a certain allotment from Aero every month, and the turnaround is approximately 1-2 months, depending on when during any given month you order.
Ordering directly from Aero:
If you order directly from Aero, there is a bit more variation in the pricing. Just as a point of reference, let's use one of the always popular models, the cafe racer. 635 GBP (http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=62). The upcharge for the Vicenzia jacket is +75 GBP, or $106, using current exchange rates. Shipping is an additonal 40 GBP to the US or Canada (I don't know Thurston Bros. shipping price to Canada), for a total of 675 GBP, or roughly $961 USD, shipped for a standard leather with no upgrade). Aero direct seems to offer, on a regular basis, free shipping for in stock jackets, which are priced lower, at 600 GBP for the cafe racer, so for an in stock cafe racer, that comes out to roughly $854, shipped. I was charged about 50 % in customs on my last order, so that should be factored into the cost, about $905 total.
The lead time ordering directly from Aero is six to eight weeks: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/cart.php DHL shipping takes under a week to reach pretty much anywhere in the US.
Re. customization, here is Aero's policy: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/custom.php
I like this page: http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=2759. You can get some really good deals there. For example, this http://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/product-detail.php?id=2622 , in the Vicenzia leather, is 600 GBP, or 640 GBP shipped. Even factoring in import duties, you are looking at $880 for a unique jacket, compared to the $1250 that a custom jacket would cost from Thurston, if that type of customization (sleeve type changed) is even allowed. Incidentally, if you ordered that jacket, it would most likely be something around 710 GBP, or $918, or $970 shipped. Even accounting for say, $80 in customs, that is $1050, vs. $1250 from Thurston Bros.
Other Aero stockists:
You can also order some jackets from Bench&Loom (http://bench-loom.myshopify.com/products/aero-leathers-cafe-racer-horsehide-jacket) who price similarly to Thurston Bros, but they don't have the try on system, and they apparently like thier jackets HUUUUGE. In nearly all the jackets I have, had or have tried on, I take a size 38, with the size 40 being big on me in an unflattering way, and I am a 5'11", 175-180 lb man, pretty much a straight up 40US/50EU in nearly all "slimmer" brands, aka not Old Navy or cheaper Nike. Their lead time is fast though, three to four weeks, if you fit into a stock size with no adjustments, and want something fast, though...
If you are ordering an in stock jacket for some of the more common jackets, and know your sizing needs, it's certainly monetarily favorable to order from Aero directly, by about $195, about 18% of the purchase price The same goes for any of the jackets in the "sales" section of the aero site. Most of these seem to be stock jackets or MTO jackets that didn't work out for some reason. You'll also get them super fast. If you are ordering a custom jacket, the savings are less certain, and you don't have the advantage of the fit program, should you need it, so it is probably better to purchase directly from Thurston Bros. Even if there is a price disadvantage, and this can range from about $100 to minimal, you buy a lot of peace of mind. Some adjustments can come post manufacture (shortening sleeves). some cannot (lengthening body), and nearly all are more expensive than getting it right the first time.
Aero direct: Pros: Prices are typically better, significantly so for in stock items, samples, overruns, sales items, etc Some evidence of greater customization options, though this seems to be a matter of contention.
Cons: You really need to know your sizing. Potentiallly longer wait time depending on when you order.
Thurston Bros: Pros: Try on jacket system. Models that seem to be exclusive to them. Consistent delivery times.
Cons: Prices can be significantly higher - aka ain't nothing free - you are paying for the convenience and peace of mind.
*Note - I cannot speak for why Thurston charges a little more for most jackets, but, having been on both sides of the retail fence, my guess would be that the markups are based on DDP, i.e. the landed price, rather than the raw wholesale price. After all, the cost of goods sold must include those necessary expenses.post #15399 of 166553/4/16 at 9:31amQuote:Originally Posted by Takoda
What's wrong with a mistake ? Is that worth to response to like that ?
I don't understand that for me because I never do things like that XD I only encourage or respect , but guess that's just the difference between you and me
But I do understand you and all who Criticize
1. People try to bring people down, to make themselves feel better
2. Don't criticize if you don't did yourself make something better, you got no right to
3. They say people who criticize you like that, is nothing personal but how they see themselves
So putting it in this perspective, it only shows your and mine position in Life, That's All
Just to let you know that it does nothing to me to be honest bcuz I know where it comes from
well for one, you're not supposed to be advertising your own goods without admin approval. and two, your endless optimism and goodwill is refreshing, but misplaced. and three, your jacket is still ugly. sorry to break it to you.post #15400 of 166553/4/16 at 10:45ampost #15401 of 166553/4/16 at 11:32ampost #15402 of 166553/4/16 at 1:32pmQuote:
They have some of their jackets that come in a "premier" fit. That is a slimmer cut, higher arm holes, etc... they also have the STF Bootlegger, which is a tight fit design. Otherwise, they generally keep the shoulder width and sleeve diameters the same, and alter things like jacket and sleeve length, as well as tapering in or out to the waist measurement.post #15403 of 166553/4/16 at 2:35pmQuote:
That's more of a concept piece than anything. Margiela took postmodern ideas of deconstructionism and brought them into fashion, making designers rethink how garments could be made and shaped. There were other designers in the '90s associated with deconstructionism, like Rei Kawakubo and Jun Takahashi, but Margiela really made a name for himself under this kind of concept. A lot of what we see in contemporary fashion owes itself to that '90s work.
There are some great books showing some of those early Margiela pieces. I think some of the images might also be on Rosenrot's blog.
Anyway, the important difference is that jacket isn't really meant to be worn (not really, anyway). It's meant to make you think differently about fashion and design.post #15404 of 166553/4/16 at 2:36pmI’m planning to buy a J100. Considering the Aero Board Racer, the Simmons Bilt’s Cafe Racer or the Real McCoy’s Buco J-100. They all look good on the respective websites. The Real McCoy jacket is twice as expensive as the other jackets. I wonder if it is twice as good too.
Does anybody know how they compare quality wise?
Also had a look at a similar jacket fro Lewis Leather; it's quite nice, but the big logo on the chest is not my thing.post #15405 of 166553/4/16 at 3:02pm
its also actually a womans jacket andQuote:
It's also actually a woman's jacket, and a rather revealing one at that.
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