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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? - Page 982

post #14716 of 16648
Quote:
Originally Posted by jglenn777 View Post


MA-1 looks stellar sir

 

It's because despite what some (opportunistic?) voices are saying recently after the fiasco, most if not all TOJ designs were pretty damn good.

post #14717 of 16648
I think a lot of the criticism was directed towards how badly some of the MTM stuff turned out
post #14718 of 16648
Quote:
Originally Posted by milosh View Post

I think a lot of the criticism was directed towards how badly some of the MTM stuff turned out

 

I'm sure there were many disasters due to leaving up to the customer full control over measurements, but that's not what I'm talking about.

 

What I'm talking about is very recent criticism towards the designs themselves, quality, etc. As if the designs had anything to do with the management fiasco.

post #14719 of 16648
Quote:
Originally Posted by navetsea View Post
 

do you mean more curve on the cut of the armhole on the front panel that would result in smaller/ narrower chest? I see that forward facing sleeves on some CR, would be tidier and also feel nicer when driving/ riding I suppose.

 

Will that eliminate the rib cage looking creases normally seen on CR right after/ below the breast pockets? before I suspect this is caused or aggravated by the presence of horizontally placed metal zip chest pockets& its square leather backing and typical snug fit of CR, without chest pocket or when the pocket zip is vertical or very deep angled on the chest, most of the time the creases are less dramatic, and some loose/ relax fit CR also has much less creases,

and if the front part has side panel under the arm, so it hangs more 3 dimensionally, I think it will also has less crease... but probably then it would be  further away from CR look.

I mean the actual slope of the shoulder.

 

Do this experiment.  Take a jacket, and put int on a good wooden hanger with contoured shoulders.  The shoulders are filled out, and the jacket falls nice and clean on the sides.  Now, take the same jacket, and put it on a bent wire hanger.  because the shoulders are now "dragged down", there is excess material under the armpits and through the front.  No matter how small you make the jacket in the chest, you will still get the same bunching.  This has little do do with the pockets, and is nearly entirely an issue with the fit through the shoulders.  If you get the fit of the shoulders correct, nearly everything else can be  made to look good.  

 

Some guys (like @Synthese, have good shoulders - angular, but not exaggeratedly square or wide (which also presents fit issues).  This is the main reason stuff looks good on him, even if sized up or sized down.  For those without as good genetics, myself included, have to be a bit more careful.  Incidentally, this has nearly nothing to do with how muscular your shoulders are, at least not for tailored garments. In fact, having built up deltoids (I'm in between - I had pronounced delts, but with my lack of lifting these days, considerably less), gives you more slopped shoulders - what's commonly called "boxer's shoulders".  

post #14720 of 16648
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

I mean the actual slope of the shoulder.

Do this experiment.  Take a jacket, and put int on a good wooden hanger with contoured shoulders.  The shoulders are filled out, and the jacket falls nice and clean on the sides.  Now, take the same jacket, and put it on a bent wire hanger.  because the shoulders are now "dragged down", there is excess material under the armpits and through the front.  No matter how small you make the jacket in the chest, you will still get the same bunching.  This has little do do with the pockets, and is nearly entirely an issue with the fit through the shoulders.  If you get the fit of the shoulders correct, nearly everything else can be  made to look good.  

Some guys (like @Synthese
, have good shoulders - angular, but not exaggeratedly square or wide (which also presents fit issues).  This is the main reason stuff looks good on him, even if sized up or sized down.  For those without as good genetics, myself included, have to be a bit more careful.  Incidentally, this has nearly nothing to do with how muscular your shoulders are, at least not for tailored garments. In fact, having built up deltoids (I'm in between - I had pronounced delts, but with my lack of lifting these days, considerably less), gives you more slopped shoulders - what's commonly called "boxer's shoulders".  

It makes a huge difference in the fit of the jacket. Langlitz, for example, has three different patterns based on shoulder slope.
post #14721 of 16648
FW15 on Ssense:
Fendi lambskin raglan jacket with "Felted cashmere paneling at front featuring a croc inspired tonal leather appliqué." icon_gu_b_slayer[1].gif

post #14722 of 16648

Ahhhh so close, yet so far. Reminds me of that legit crocodile leather shirt Hermes did. 

post #14723 of 16648
At least the Fendi is "affordable" at under $4K USD. Hermes croc tops were at least 5x that (10x?) iirc.

For posterity:



post #14724 of 16648
Balmain had some before too, right?
post #14725 of 16648
Here's the All Saint's jacket. Seems about an inch or so long, but eh.

Edited by UrbanComposition - 9/11/15 at 4:36pm
post #14726 of 16648
Excuse the rest of the outfit; I just came from work in dirty jeans & Docs.

Stopped by Fog City Leather on Union Street & talked to the owner (Jack). They also make jackets right there in-house. Tried on the Schott 626 there in a medium. Too tight in the shoulders & a bit long at 26". The 519 measures about the same in a medium. Jack said he was going to make one for himself at 25" length, no belt and stars, and darker hardware, all of which I like. The cost would be the same as his store price for the Schott: $700. Will check back in a few weeks to see how it turns out.
post #14727 of 16648

@Vickt That bomber is amazing, where is it from, if you don't mind me asking.

post #14728 of 16648
Quote:
Originally Posted by asuh88 View Post

@Vickt
 That bomber is amazing, where is it from, if you don't mind me asking.

No problem. It's a TOJ, which I guess is basically Falcon Garments now. No guarantee it's exactly the same, not sure what went on with the pattern carryover. They have an affiliate thread on here you can check out though. Avoid the TOJ one at all costs.
post #14729 of 16648
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

Here's the All Saint's jacket. Seems about an inch or so long, but eh.

Maybe just a little long but overall great fit and seems to have enough of a hip flair that it's not very noticeable. Nice jacket.
post #14730 of 16648
Thanks. My first "fashion" leather jacket. Definitely not my last.
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