It's because despite what some (opportunistic?) voices are saying recently after the fiasco, most if not all TOJ designs were pretty damn good.
I'm sure there were many disasters due to leaving up to the customer full control over measurements, but that's not what I'm talking about.
What I'm talking about is very recent criticism towards the designs themselves, quality, etc. As if the designs had anything to do with the management fiasco.
do you mean more curve on the cut of the armhole on the front panel that would result in smaller/ narrower chest? I see that forward facing sleeves on some CR, would be tidier and also feel nicer when driving/ riding I suppose.
Will that eliminate the rib cage looking creases normally seen on CR right after/ below the breast pockets? before I suspect this is caused or aggravated by the presence of horizontally placed metal zip chest pockets& its square leather backing and typical snug fit of CR, without chest pocket or when the pocket zip is vertical or very deep angled on the chest, most of the time the creases are less dramatic, and some loose/ relax fit CR also has much less creases,
and if the front part has side panel under the arm, so it hangs more 3 dimensionally, I think it will also has less crease... but probably then it would be further away from CR look.
I mean the actual slope of the shoulder.
Do this experiment. Take a jacket, and put int on a good wooden hanger with contoured shoulders. The shoulders are filled out, and the jacket falls nice and clean on the sides. Now, take the same jacket, and put it on a bent wire hanger. because the shoulders are now "dragged down", there is excess material under the armpits and through the front. No matter how small you make the jacket in the chest, you will still get the same bunching. This has little do do with the pockets, and is nearly entirely an issue with the fit through the shoulders. If you get the fit of the shoulders correct, nearly everything else can be made to look good.
Some guys (like @Synthese, have good shoulders - angular, but not exaggeratedly square or wide (which also presents fit issues). This is the main reason stuff looks good on him, even if sized up or sized down. For those without as good genetics, myself included, have to be a bit more careful. Incidentally, this has nearly nothing to do with how muscular your shoulders are, at least not for tailored garments. In fact, having built up deltoids (I'm in between - I had pronounced delts, but with my lack of lifting these days, considerably less), gives you more slopped shoulders - what's commonly called "boxer's shoulders".