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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? - Page 961

post #14401 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by robinsongreen68 View Post

ah, if you plan to layer/zip then i'd stick with that! it was just the unzipped/t shirt only fit that i thought could be a little cleaner. i only ever wear mine unzipped, but i'm in london.

You also have the FW13 black calf right? There was a Spanish dude sitting across from me on the Tube wearing the same iteration as well. First 5zip sighting in London. Too bad I was not wearing mine that day...
post #14402 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

It looks great. To most people that's a slim cut, to SF folks especially on SW&D you could size down one to achieve the skinny look. I always veer in that direction. I get it if you're a chunky sweater guy though and then it'd be too tight. It should always feel somewhat restricting akin to a slim suit. Really it's personal preference. Leather looks nice.


if the jacket still has some room around the torso "slim/ trim" look, even if you stand slouching a little the jacket still looks clean, but if the jacket is really skinny, it looks clean only when you stand totally straight, any other pose less than standing straight will make lots of creases forming everywhere, just saying, I like both fit depending on the jacket style.

post #14403 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodog View Post

I know my way around leathers when it comes to shoes, but I must admit that when it comes to jackets I am completely in the dark on how different kind of leathers stretch. I am thinking that the most important area is the shoulders and upper chest. the rest I could probably have taken in if I want a snugger fit in the future? I guess that's doable, but I don't know for sure? Enlarging a smaller size is impossible however...

Anyway, I'd love to hear what someone with so much experience in this area as @LA Guy
 has to say.

I don't think you should expect much in dimensional changes with stretching of the leather. Most additional comfort will come from the softening of the leather as opposed to it stretching enough to see a true measurement difference. Especially with calf, any small stretching that takes place will be countered by the small wrinkles and rolls that develop in the leather.

Stretch (or shrinking) of leather is partly a product of the method of drying employed by the tannery. Some methods give dimensional stability, others allow shrinkage but no stretching, etc...
post #14404 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodog View Post


I know my way around leathers when it comes to shoes, but I must admit that when it comes to jackets I am completely in the dark on how different kind of leathers stretch. I am thinking that the most important area is the shoulders and upper chest. the rest I could probably have taken in if I want a snugger fit in the future? I guess that's doable, but I don't know for sure? Enlarging a smaller size is impossible however...

Anyway, I'd love to hear what someone with so much experience in this area as @LA Guy
 has to say.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisGold View Post


I don't think you should expect much in dimensional changes with stretching of the leather. Most additional comfort will come from the softening of the leather as opposed to it stretching enough to see a true measurement difference. Especially with calf, any small stretching that takes place will be countered by the small wrinkles and rolls that develop in the leather.

Stretch (or shrinking) of leather is partly a product of the method of drying employed by the tannery. Some methods give dimensional stability, others allow shrinkage but no stretching, etc...

I agree with @ChrisGold here. The only leathers that tend to be tanned in such a way that allow easy stretching are goat, garment quality bison, and there are a bunch of others, but it's not pertinent here.  And in any case, even with those leathers, if you deliberately get it very tight so that it will stretch, you can and very probably will, end up with some unexpected results.  I own a calfskin 5-zip, have worn it for years, and the leather used is definitely not particularly stretchy or pliable.

 

I think that getting the larger jacket, and if you are really unhappy with the way it looks (I think that it looks good as it is, but that is a matter of personal preference), a good leather specialist will be able to take in the body slightly, (bringing up sleeves at the shoulders costs more, but it can definitely be done), taper the arms a bit, etc... Relying on DIY methods to achieve the fit you want can be a recipe for disaster.  

 

Leather is like most other garments.  They can be altered.  The trick, of course, is getting a garment that fits the way you like it in the critical areas - the shoulders, especially, and then the chest, so that you have to do as few, if any, alterations, as possible.  

post #14405 of 16653
Mate it fits perfectly there! as it gets broken it it will drape even better. Don't need to size down. Look what happened to me!! It looks great on you and i actually quite like the properties of the calf too!!

Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodog View Post

Awww man, you just screwed up the unanimity! baldy%5B1%5D.gif

Anyway, thanks a lot for commenting. Keep in mind though that I am only wearing a thin cotton t-shirt in those pictures. I really would like to be able to wear something more substantial underneath sometimes, as I want this jacket to be usable through all seasons. And living in Sweden, things such as layering and, sometimes, zipping up is a necessity.

For reference, here are a couple of snaps (taken again with a crappy cell phone camera) where I am wearing a tee and a regular sweatshirt underneath the jacket.





  MORE pics... (Click to show)







post #14406 of 16653
I like the larger size, personally. Although it's hard to tell in photos cause calf provides its own structure, so sometimes the "giveaways" in whether something is too large or big aren't as evident when something fits so clean (if only because the material is so stiff). In this photo, the creasing around the arms does kind of suggest the body is slightly too big.

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I think that crease happens because of your dropped shoulder, but also maybe because of the extra space? I feel like only you would know since you know how close the jacket is to your body.

Anyway, I wouldn't overthink it. I don't think casualwear needs to fit as precisely as tailored clothing. Pick what you like best.

FWIW, I have a leather jacket that's just a hair too big. I took it to my alterations tailor and we agreed slicing about a half inch from both sides would be too much, but a quarter inch is so small that I don't even know if it would be worth it. Once you slim the sides, the shoulders can look a little exaggerated by proportion (it'll make the shoulders look extended by relative distance to the body, if that makes sense). I didn't like the extended shoulder look, but then altering the shoulders would end up costing a few hundred bucks. I've decided to just layer an open flannel underneath to take up the space. Doesn't make it as versatile, but it kind of works if you have a larger wardrobe to play with. If you only want to wear a t-shirt one day, pick X jacket; if you want to layer, pick Y jacket.

Anyway, thanks to ghettotasty for the kind words, but there are lots of people who prob have a better eye for this than me (and more experience with the five zip). I bought my first five zip after seeing Fok in one a few years ago when we went out for dinner.
post #14407 of 16653
You'll grow into it
post #14408 of 16653

Thanks everyone for your comments and for sharing your in depth knowledge. I really appreciate it! This is what truly makes SF so awesome. :cheers:

 

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by dieworkwear View Post

I In this photo, the creasing around the arms does kind of suggest the body is slightly too big.
  Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

 

Are you talking about this crease, close to the armpit?

 

 

I'll have to take a closer look while trying on the jacket again tomorrow, but I do think this is caused by me having a rather large chest for my build, in combination with the stiffness of the leather. Maybe my dropped shoulder has something to with it too, as you said. When wearing a sweatshirt underneath I can actually feel the front of the jacket pressing against most of my frontal chest area and some in the corresponding area in the back, so I am pretty sure it fits ok in the chest. 

post #14409 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodog View Post

Are you talking about this crease, close to the armpit?

I'll have to take a closer look while trying on the jacket again tomorrow, but I do think this is caused by me having a rather large chest for my build, in combination with the stiffness of the leather. Maybe my dropped shoulder has something to with it too, as you said. When wearing a sweatshirt underneath I can actually feel the front of the jacket pressing against most of my frontal chest area and some in the corresponding area in the back, so I am pretty sure it fits ok in the chest. 

Yea, that usually shows up on shirts because of people's dropped shoulders. I wouldn't worry too much about it on casual clothing cause you don't need (or sometimes even want) that clean of a fit, but maybe that section is also caused because of a big chest.

If it feels good to you though, I say go with the larger size. I personally like the longer length better.
post #14410 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by hoodog View Post

Are you talking about this crease, close to the armpit?


I'll have to take a closer look while trying on the jacket again tomorrow, but I do think this is caused by me having a rather large chest for my build, in combination with the stiffness of the leather. Maybe my dropped shoulder has something to with it too, as you said. When wearing a sweatshirt underneath I can actually feel the front of the jacket pressing against most of my frontal chest area and some in the corresponding area in the back, so I am pretty sure it fits ok in the chest. 

As you noted, once you break it in more you will get a lot of smaller creases and big ones like that will go away. I've spent the last week pulling out my newest leather jacket at least twice a day, rolling it up into a ball, putting all of my weight on it, then unrolling and rolling it the other way, then switching from vertical rolling to horizontal, etc... and repeating. Not that you necessarily want to do that to a 5-zip but my jacket is being tamed and it will now conform to me instead of just riding up.
post #14411 of 16653
I agree with the sentiment that the jacket will not necessarily stretch as so much as it well soften up and hang better. I don't see how it will stretch more for a well fitted jacket versus something more slim fitting.

Wear in good health.
post #14412 of 16653
the creasing is there because the jacket is slightly too big when worn with just a t shirt, which is why i suggested trying a size down earlier. second pic below is more how i wanted mine to fit. but i can't get more than a skinny knit under mine and hardly ever zip up anyway, so if you want to layer for winter then i think what you have is good.
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
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post #14413 of 16653
Honestly, I think the brown one you posted awhile back is my favorite of all three.
post #14414 of 16653
Layer-0 via Lift. First is calf, second is horse. Must.. resist.. urge.. to.. buy..








post #14415 of 16653

First is really cool, the second one looks surprisingly good considering it's both a blazer/sportjacket-ish thing and it has buttons (which both usually are :uhoh:)

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