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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? - Page 948

post #14206 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by HeavenResign View Post

Ktown would you mind taking a fit pic with the sleeves and jacket zipped up. Thinking about this as an alternative to the Vanson sf collab that never came to fruition

Beautiful jacket though

Aero and Vanson are completely different companies with completely different styles.  Truth be told, Vanson is much more of a "pure" motorcycle leather specialist, while Aero is a fashion company, albeit one that specializes mostly in historical repros.  It sits in the same space as say, Himel Bros or The Real McCoy, but with a big catalogue of styles.

 

If you go with the Board racer, you are probably going to come closer to a fashion jacket than you would with a Vanson, unless you have a custom pattern with custom details.

post #14207 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

Looks really good.  

ToJ is a funny phenomenon.  A few hundred dollars more, and you have any number of choices (that Aero costs $1099, if anyone cares.) and significantly better quality, including in areas that you wouldn't see unless you have taken leather jackets apart and really broken them down - consistent tension, straight stitching, leather that is skived at the edges.)  

A month back I posted on another board some numbers on the Aero machinists, who make each jacket in its entirety after it's been cut. (and from seriously heavy leather in most cases) I always wondered who was actually making the TOJ jackets and how much experience they had in producing leathers at those price points. Julie, Aero's top machinist, has individually produced over 12,000 jackets, and there are three other women that are over 6,000. Julie's number is even more impressive when you realize she does most of the really complicated patterns (like RAF sheepskins) and jackets that are rarely produced. There's a good chance that she'll be making a certain Trucker very soon.
post #14208 of 16653
Yeah, that's actually preferable to me - the vanson was going to be the junya moto pattern with the shoulders brought in like the daredevil, anything else from vanson I don't think would really work for me. I still love the zipper layout of the junya moto though, which would be the only thing I would see if I could change for the aero. But at this point it's not a dealbreaker
post #14209 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisGold View Post


A month back I posted on another board some numbers on the Aero machinists, who make each jacket in its entirety after it's been cut. (and from seriously heavy leather in most cases) I always wondered who was actually making the TOJ jackets and how much experience they had in producing leathers at those price points. Julie, Aero's top machinist, has individually produced over 12,000 jackets, and there are three other women that are over 6,000. Julie's number is even more impressive when you realize she does most of the really complicated patterns (like RAF sheepskins) and jackets that are rarely produced. There's a good chance that she'll be making a certain Trucker very soon.

If it's the trucker I am thinking of, it would be awesome to have such a qualified set of hands on it, especially since I specifically asked for "the heaviest hide you can find", which means that it will be a beast to work with.  I'm hoping for something 1.6mm or something insane like that, and working with leather like that is not easy, especially on things like armholes.

post #14210 of 16653

Perhaps tomorrow I'll take a pic for you. The fit is very similar to this:

 

http://www.styleforum.net/t/71625/leather-jackets-post-pictures-of-the-best-youve-seen-owned/13750_50#post_7892467

 

My fit adjustments were 1" less in sleeve length, 0.5" less body length, taper bottom hem 0.25" on each side. When I zip up the sleeve fully it wraps nicely right around my wrist.

post #14211 of 16653

I don't know how you guys handle the super thick leathers. My fit jacket was steerhide and that thing was almost uncomfortably thick and heavy for me. The jacket I posted above is in Italian Vicenza, one of their more malleable leathers.

 

P.S. Many thanks to @ChrisGold and @proteinnerd for answering a bunch of questions for me via PM when I was planning out my order.

post #14212 of 16653
I've been stopping by Johnson Leathers in Russian Hill where they make everything in-house. Pretty nice stuff with a huge choice of leathers, including a certain cafe racer jacket that fits great right off the rack. I'm wondering if I'm starting down an expensive road here...

Fok, did you happen to stop by there when you were last in SF? Alan (the owner) is a really great guy. He showed me a varsity jacket they did for Comme de Garçon that was pretty amazing.
post #14213 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktown View Post

I don't know how you guys handle the super thick leathers. My fit jacket was steerhide and that thing was almost uncomfortably thick and heavy for me. The jacket I posted above is in Italian Vicenza, one of their more malleable leathers.

P.S. Many thanks to @ChrisGold
and @proteinnerd
for answering a bunch of questions for me via PM when I was planning out my order.

It was my pleasure, I'm glad it turned out as well as it did. The Vincenza is a super hide and it's very easy to break in. The heavier leathers can take some time to get used to, but once you do, it's hard to describe... like a soft suit of armor once it's broken in.
post #14214 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

I've been stopping by Johnson Leathers in Russian Hill where they make everything in-house. Pretty nice stuff with a huge choice of leathers, including a certain cafe racer jacket that fits great right off the rack. I'm wondering if I'm starting down an expensive road here...

Fok, did you happen to stop by there when you were last in SF? Alan (the owner) is a really great guy. He showed me a varsity jacket they did for Comme de Garçon that was pretty amazing.

The good thing about Johnson is that if you can keep from buying a bunch of jackets from him, then you won't spend very much as their prices are more than reasonable. On the other hand, once you realize they can make almost anything, then keeping to one jacket might be an issue.
post #14215 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

If it's the trucker I am thinking of, it would be awesome to have such a qualified set of hands on it, especially since I specifically asked for "the heaviest hide you can find", which means that it will be a beast to work with.  I'm hoping for something 1.6mm or something insane like that, and working with leather like that is not easy, especially on things like armholes.

Yes, and you've got some serious layers to sew around those top pockets. I can't wait to see how it turns out. It's definitely a challenge to put that jacket together.
post #14216 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktown View Post

I don't know how you guys handle the super thick leathers. My fit jacket was steerhide and that thing was almost uncomfortably thick and heavy for me. The jacket I posted above is in Italian Vicenza, one of their more malleable leathers.

P.S. Many thanks to @ChrisGold
and @proteinnerd
for answering a bunch of questions for me via PM when I was planning out my order.

congratz on the jacket!

what is Italian Vicenza exactly?
post #14217 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by sinnedk View Post

congratz on the jacket!

what is Italian Vicenza exactly?

It's a vegetable tanned Italian horsehide, sourced jointly by Thurston and Goodwear, and now also available from Aero directly. (was briefly a Thurston exclusive with Aero) It's slightly lighter than Horween's CXL FQHH, more pliable and showing more grain right away. It has a ton of character and looks especially good on vintage styled jackets.
post #14218 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisGold View Post

It's a vegetable tanned Italian horsehide, sourced jointly by Thurston and Goodwear, and now also available from Aero directly. (was briefly a Thurston exclusive with Aero) It's slightly lighter than Horween's CXL FQHH, more pliable and showing more grain right away. It has a ton of character and looks especially good on vintage styled jackets.

awesome, i really dig that jacket, may ditch my Toj tongue.gif for it
post #14219 of 16653
I think for most people, turning to a Johnson (or any other repro maker) for a fashion jacket isn't going to turn out very well. There's nobody to provide the taste/design required, much less spec-ing. If you want reprowear type stuff it's a good option, but most posters here are not capable of producing something good on their own.
post #14220 of 16653
Quote:
Originally Posted by ktown View Post
 

I don't know how you guys handle the super thick leathers. My fit jacket was steerhide and that thing was almost uncomfortably thick and heavy for me. The jacket I posted above is in Italian Vicenza, one of their more malleable leathers.

 

P.S. Many thanks to @ChrisGold and @proteinnerd for answering a bunch of questions for me via PM when I was planning out my order.

As important as physical comfort is psychological comfort.  I take my clothing through a beating, and not only that, but I feel constricted if I feel like I can break my clothes.  So for me, it's either heavy denim and heavier leathers, or abrasion resistant tech fabrics that have a ridiculous amount of stretch in them so I can literally do a fly jump kick and have room to stretch.  Or things made from military tents that are reinforced at all the stress points with additonal material.  Or materials that are made to be grabbed and pulled with all the strength a 280 lb man (about the biggest guy I've sparred with) who is trying to separate your arm from your shoulder.   I hear about these guys who squat down, and split the seam of their pants.  To me, the very fact that the pants could split that way makes me uncomfortable wearing them. Even on non-jeans, I asked for a felled seam on the seat and crotch.  

 

tldr; I dunno - you just get used to it, and after that, anything light (for me, anything under 3.5 ounces or so) feels uncomfortably flimsy.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by UrbanComposition View Post

I've been stopping by Johnson Leathers in Russian Hill where they make everything in-house. Pretty nice stuff with a huge choice of leathers, including a certain cafe racer jacket that fits great right off the rack. I'm wondering if I'm starting down an expensive road here...

Fok, did you happen to stop by there when you were last in SF? Alan (the owner) is a really great guy. He showed me a varsity jacket they did for Comme de Garçon that was pretty amazing.

Yeah, I was there, and had a jacket adjusted.  Nice guy. Alan.

 

Quote:
Originally Posted by ChrisGold View Post

The good thing about Johnson is that if you can keep from buying a bunch of jackets from him, then you won't spend very much as their prices are more than reasonable. On the other hand, once you realize they can make almost anything, then keeping to one jacket might be an issue.

I'm going to have him make me a suit of armor for my next project.  I am going to get 4.5 ounce leather sleeves with zips put on a 21 ounce denim vest, and then have the yoke and front panels of the denim vest covered in the same leather.

 

I dress for the zombie apocalypse.  Either it's so tough that the meanest zombie just gives up, or it's made so that I can run at top speed away from those brain eaters.

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