That look really works for the repro guys. Yeah, very Indiana Jones.
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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? - Page 716post #10726 of 172094/4/14 at 6:15ampost #10727 of 172094/4/14 at 6:42ampost #10728 of 172094/4/14 at 8:36ampost #10729 of 172094/4/14 at 8:49ampost #10730 of 172094/4/14 at 9:28ampost #10731 of 172094/4/14 at 9:44amQuote:Originally Posted by nicelynice
These jacket obviously aren't 10+ years old, but I want worn leather to look like this, not cracked and peeling
Go drum-dyed or go home
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
They use different dying processes? I have noticed that, for example, Drew's 5-zip looks great and doesn't show any signs of fading after ten or so years.post #10732 of 172094/4/14 at 9:53ampost #10733 of 172094/4/14 at 10:07amQuote:Originally Posted by chinesealpha
This is a pic of a Himel Bros. jacket made from Shinki horsehide, which is generally regarded as the best in the world. Mimosa bark tanned, aniline dyed. I'm not sure if it is spray-dyed (versus drum-dyed) but it sure looks that way. Spray-aniline dyed leather is the standard used in high-end repro flight jackets (Aero, Goodwear, Buzz Rickson's etc). Quite obviously, the dyed layer chips off pretty easily, giving rise to the crackly, spiderwebby wear patterns.
Just like slubby denim or scratchy tweed, spray aniline leather is a holdover technology whose flaws were once tolerated rather than venerated.
I own and love a beat-to-shit goatskin G1 from the 60s, but I wouldn't purchase a new jacket with spray-aniline leather. I know the cracking is to be expected, but to my eye, it just looks dried out and damaged. Too much patina, would you believe?
Cracking usually stems from not taking care of the leather properly while "browning" or "greying" comes from good wear and use. Most quality leathers will "brown" and "grey" over time because people are putting them to a lot of use. "Browning" and "greying" happens with jackets that are drum dyed (i.e. Vanson) as well as with jackets that are "spray" tanned (i.e. Chromexcel from Aero)... Even if both sides and the leather are dyed, it still will happen...You can see the beginnings of the process in the photo below...for a lot of people this process (earning one's "stripes," so to speak) is why they love these heavier jackets...
The last production meeting that we had with Aero included the topic of whether we should or shouldn't begin to carry Shinki hides...While Aero isn't sure (they like Horween's Chromexcel Leather better!), we're hoping that becomes a reality, as then we'll have two of the best leathers on Earth available for our customers!
Edited by AeroleathersTB - 4/4/14 at 10:29ampost #10734 of 172094/4/14 at 10:24ampost #10735 of 172094/4/14 at 10:36amQuote:
What in particular causes cracking? What can be done to prevent it?
Offering both Shinki and Horween CXL would indeed set Aero apart. I, for one, would certainly consider certain of Aero's broad assortment of models if offered in Shinki. That said, I inquired of Aero about this exact subject a short while ago, and its response suggested that Shinki is not being seriously considered. I hope you were able to change Aero's mind.post #10736 of 172094/4/14 at 10:41ampost #10737 of 172094/4/14 at 11:19amQuote:Originally Posted by Adroit
What in particular causes cracking? What can be done to prevent it?
Offering both Shinki and Horween CXL would indeed set Aero apart. I, for one, would certainly consider certain of Aero's broad assortment of models if offered in Shinki. That said, I inquired of Aero about this exact subject a short while ago, and its response suggested that Shinki is not being seriously considered. I hope you were able to change Aero's mind.
We use a product called Dr. Jackson's Hide Rejuvenator to keep our vintage jackets in good shape. Cracking is caused by the hide becoming dry. Dr. Jackson's is really good stuff...we've restored original 1930s jackets that were as hard as cardboard with it!
Aero is unsure about carrying the Shinki Hides because they look so much like their existing A-2 leathers--their "Jerky Horsehide"post #10738 of 172094/4/14 at 12:36pmpost #10739 of 172094/4/14 at 1:21pmpost #10740 of 172094/4/14 at 1:24pm
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