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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? - Page 713

post #10681 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post
 

 

 

I don't think that those types of jackets are what most SW&D users go for on here. 

 

SW&D users mostly go for slimmer fitting jackets with more of a taper from the chest to midsection and slimmer arms with higher armholes. 

 


TOJ is so popular on here because they're providing these classic styles with updated fits, which very few companies wish to do. 

 

 

 

 


There is a limit on how slim one can go while using thicker leather.  For example, Vanson, Himel, and our brand--Pacific Cycle Leathers--have copied the jacket shown below.  But, we have to stay true to the original pattern to get the cool look.  If we were to go slimmer, we'd have to use lambskin or naked cowhide, and those leathers won't approximate a vintage jacket's patina over time, which is something buyers are really drawn to...

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Edited by AeroleathersTB - 4/3/14 at 12:41pm
post #10682 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post


There is a limit on how slim one can go while using thicker leather.  For example, Vanson, Himel, and our brand--Pacific Cycle Leathers--have copied the jacket shown below.  But, we have to stay true to the original pattern to get the cool look.  If we were to go slimmer, we'd have to use lambskin or naked cowhide, and those leathers won't approximate a vintage jacket's patina over time, which is something buyers are really drawn to...
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I own a TOJ moto in calf. Their calf is pretty damn thick I would say, and they still fit very slim.
Maybe I just haven't seen the thick leather you are referring to. Though personally I doubt I'd be inclined to buy anything that's much thicker than the TOJ calf when used for a jacket.
post #10683 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lokesh View Post


I own a TOJ moto in calf. Their calf is pretty damn thick I would say, and they still fit very slim.
Maybe I just haven't seen the thick leather you are referring to. Though personally I doubt I'd be inclined to buy anything that's much thicker than the TOJ calf when used for a jacket.


I don't know a whole lot about TOJ jackets, but if someone on StyleForum.net owns a TOJ as well as a Vanson or Aero jacket, they might be able to comment...

post #10684 of 16909

I think @LA Guy and possibly @Mr. Moo  has had experience with both.

 

It's not just TOJ though there are some nuance to the fit of slim leathers. 

 

I own a Schott bomber (not a slim fit) made of thick naked cowhide and the armholes are so low that I feel very constricted while wearing it. 

post #10685 of 16909
The armholes are low or high?


How thick are the calfs used by Vanson, Himel, etc...? I vaguely remember ToJs lamb being ~1.5mm and I think their thickers ones are about 2mm and go as high as 2.5mm? Not really sure I Am accurate on those numbers though.
post #10686 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post

I think @LA Guy
 and possibly @Mr. Moo
  has had experience with both.

It's not just TOJ though there are some nuance to the fit of slim leathers. 

I own a Schott bomber made of thick naked cowhide and the armholes are so low that I feel very constricted while wearing it. 

The Aero more actually has more of a taper from the chest to the waist. The ToJ that I have is horse, one of the few he made. Horse is actually thinner than cow or calf of similar durability, because it is much denser.

The Aero is made for a more athletic frame. Fashion jackets are slim, but the fit is usually for a frame with narrower shoulders and chest.

For a typical, fit, but not athletic frame, the best fit is probably the Vanson metropolitan leather.
post #10687 of 16909
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post
 


There is a limit on how slim one can go while using thicker leather.  For example, Vanson, Himel, and our brand--Pacific Cycle Leathers--have copied the jacket shown below.  But, we have to stay true to the original pattern to get the cool look.  If we were to go slimmer, we'd have to use lambskin or naked cowhide, and those leathers won't approximate a vintage jacket's patina over time, which is something buyers are really drawn to...

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Agreed regards fit and the thickness of leather. My lewis could be slimmer around the arms - I had to size to my chest. Any additional reductions and I could see an issue with mobility and would certainly struggle with layering. For my personal preferences I couldn't go any thicker than the leather used on this but I'm amazed by the quality of the Aero's I've handled.

post #10688 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post


I don't think that those types of jackets are what most SW&D users go for on here. 

SW&D users mostly go for slimmer fitting jackets with more of a taper from the chest to midsection and slimmer arms with higher armholes. 



TOJ is so popular on here because they're providing these classic styles with updated fits, which very few companies wish to do. 



Not altogether accurate. There are different factions here. Also, brands like Junya collaborate with brands like Vanson because they feel that a brand like Vanson brings something valuable to the table.
post #10689 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post

How do StyleForum.net members like their leather jackets to age?  We purchase heavier leathers, such as Horween Chromexcel Leather and Vanson's Comp. Weight Leather so that our jackets age like 1950s originals. 

Here is a good example of the look we like to see from a rack of our vintage leather jackets...Both Aero and Vanson jackets develop this patina with time and wear...we like nothing more than to meet one of our customers who purchased a jacket from us 10 years ago...without doubt, his jacket is looking absolutely amazing! 

It depends -- I have a calf TOJ collared moto in the queue because I want it to age like that. But IMO something a little finer like goat or lamb can look tatty.

I'm a big fan of biker-style jackets -- I think the classic rider is one of the great American designs -- but since I don't ride (though my great uncle had several hundred historic motorcycles in his collection) I'd probably avoid "real" biker gear like Vanson or some of the more moto Aero styles. But some of the ones Thurston Bro has posted are truly gorgeous.

I do know from being a cyclist that functional leathers don't necessarily work off the bike, because you need long arms and a really body hugging fit so you aren't acting like a sail. Just like functional cycle clothing doesn't feel right when your're not in the riding position.
post #10690 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFX45 View Post

The armholes are low or high?


How thick are the calfs used by Vanson, Himel, etc...? I vaguely remember ToJs lamb being ~1.5mm and I think their thickers ones are about 2mm and go as high as 2.5mm? Not really sure I Am accurate on those numbers though.


Some of Schott's armholes are pretty low...if that's the brand you're asking about...while in other styles, the armholes are pretty high (i.e. the Schott CAF1...)...

 

Our Vanson Leather is around 3.25 oz. in the Comp. Weight and our Aero Front Quarter Horsehide is about 3.25 oz. too.  Aero's Chromexcel Steerhide is about 3.5 oz.  The thicker leather allows for a very cool look (see photo below)...we like it a lot!

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #10691 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFX45 View Post

The armholes are low or high?


How thick are the calfs used by Vanson, Himel, etc...? I vaguely remember ToJs lamb being ~1.5mm and I think their thickers ones are about 2mm and go as high as 2.5mm? Not really sure I Am accurate on those numbers though.

I think that you might be thinking in ounces.

A 2.5 mm leather is about 6 ounces. I use that for leather straps. On a jacket, at the shoulder, that would be a preposterous 1 cm thickness. For comparison, 9-11 ounces is bridle leather. That's for really thick belts.

A lamb with a 1.5 mm skin would be the lamb to kick all other lambs' asses.
post #10692 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post


Not altogether accurate. There are different factions here. Also, brands like Junya collaborate with brands like Vanson because they feel that a brand like Vanson brings something valuable to the table.


I think the fashion brand collaborate with Vanson to get the leather...it's truly something to behold!

post #10693 of 16909
FWIW, my aero steerhide was incredibly supple from day 1. Horse is much stiffer.
post #10694 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Peter1 View Post


It depends -- I have a calf TOJ collared moto in the queue because I want it to age like that. But IMO something a little finer like goat or lamb can look tatty.

I'm a big fan of biker-style jackets -- I think the classic rider is one of the great American designs -- but since I don't ride (though my great uncle had several hundred historic motorcycles in his collection) I'd probably avoid "real" biker gear like Vanson or some of the more moto Aero styles. But some of the ones Thurston Bro has posted are truly gorgeous.

I do know from being a cyclist that functional leathers don't necessarily work off the bike, because you need long arms and a really body hugging fit so you aren't acting like a sail. Just like functional cycle clothing doesn't feel right when your're not in the riding position.


I hear ya on this...a lot of times it's working with the thicker leather to make it work for you, to work with your style...My Aero J106 in Horween Chromexcel Steerhide is a tremendous jacket...I love it, but the way I wear it certainly isn't for everyone...

 

 

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
post #10695 of 16909
Quote:
Originally Posted by Thurston Bros View Post


Some of Schott's armholes are pretty low...if that's the brand you're asking about...while in other styles, the armholes are pretty high (i.e. the Schott CAF1...)...

Our Vanson Leather is around 3.25 oz. in the Comp. Weight and our Aero Front Quarter Horsehide is about 3.25 oz. too.  Aero's Chromexcel Steerhide is about 3.5 oz.  The thicker leather allows for a very cool look (see photo below)...we like it a lot!

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I was asking Distorbiant with his jacket because he said the armhole is low and very restrictive but to my experience, it's the high armholes that feels more restrictive.

Quote:
Originally Posted by LA Guy View Post

I think that you might be thinking in ounces.

A 2.5 mm leather is about 6 ounces. I use that for leather straps. On a jacket, at the shoulder, that would be a preposterous 1 cm thickness. For comparison, 9-11 ounces is bridle leather. That's for really thick belts.

A lamb with a 1.5 mm skin would be the lamb to kick all other lambs' asses.


Both of you are probably right, my recollection is a bit blurry as it's been a while since I tried to get ToJ and pay attention to the leathers used. I did see this on the ToJ thread upon a quick search and Drew talks about 1.5mm lamb jackets.
Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post

also, to clarify if that doesn't make any sense to people - that Blackbird article is about mouko soaking his Robby Geller jacket (made in Korea, of Italian-sourced thin nappa - it's like under 1mm thick) so with that little density and thickness, yeah, it did shrink - with TOJ, we use lamb that is at least 1.5mm thick if you go with our standard stuff, and so while it'll shrink a little, the extra thickness means it won't shrink as much. Math at play here. Harder leather like calf and horse won't even be affected to be honest.
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