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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? - Page 677

post #10141 of 11618

@LaymanX  with all due respect, most people here know what full grain leather is. This discussion of quality is framed within the context of leather used in mid to high-end leather jackets.

post #10142 of 11618
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFX45 View Post

It's hard to define. Some leather are meant to be sturdy and be able to take a beating like Schotts and others that are actually meant for riding while others like Ann D tends to be on the thinner and softer side to drape better but quality is still good, they don't use cheap ones Wilsons use.


Good quality leather jacket doesn't end with good leather used, build and construction also plays a part because whats the point of using the best leather available if the jacket falls apart?

 

I'd say it's more along these lines.  In general, the evenness of the grain and size of the hides are factors, but the purpose of the jacket has a lot to do with what qualities of the leather will be considered quality.  If you're getting a leather jacket for durability, the thickness and stiffness of the leather as well as the seam construction (open vs closed, single vs double stitched, etc) would probably be at the top of the list for what makes a quality jacket. When you get into the aesthetic side of things, the physical quality of the leather used can vary to suit the garment's structural needs, because at this point, leather is just a material, and there aren't huge debates about how the thickness of cotton determines a cotton jacket's quality.

 

For example:

Louis Vuitton Fall 2010 

The leather on this is literally paper-thin, like a 40 lb stock, and it's treated to be kind of waxy.  But it's designed to emulate a nylon anorak, which would normally made of a fairly thin material, which is itself usually somewhat slick with a sheen. So, even though the leather itself isn't thick or tough, I'd still give it the "quality" stamp of approval.  It's well constructed and finished (the stitches are straight and even, etc) and the leather's physical qualities were consciously chosen to support the jacket's aesthetic.

post #10143 of 11618
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post
 

@LaymanX  with all due respect, most people here know what full grain leather is. This discussion of quality is framed within the context of leather used in mid to high-end leather jackets.

 

Ah.. roger. I think once you get past the basic requirement of full grain unblemished leather, it becomes subjective no?

 

Some people would consider the buttery soft lambskin from ToJ or SLP to be the epitome of quality while others would prefer a hard wearing horse hide. Both could potentially be considered high end leather but share very little in thickness, stiffness, hand feel characteristics.

 

edit: Futuresailors said it way better than me. lol

post #10144 of 11618

@futuresailors Good point. It's amusing how we fashion hobbyists get very specific about leather but not so much with other fabrics. God forbid we enter a cotton-quality arms race. When you treat leather just like another fabric, the desired standards become far less prioritized. 

 

@LaymanX What if full grain leather isn't necessary? What if split grain can achieve the visual effect in a jacket like the one futuresailors posted? Which brings us back to drew's claim that the Burberry leather, something that costs thousands, only costs them $50 to produce. Can we really say that, if a leather jacket is only costing a brand $50-$100 to produce and selling for $2k-$3k, that it's "good" quality, even if it achieves the intended aesthetic?

 

Then again, this might go back to the whole cotton/fabric point again. I just can't help but feel there should be some sort of preexisting value to the leather itself.

post #10145 of 11618
Regarding leather quality vs cotton etc I'm pretty sure a good amount of people care about all fabrics. Good portion of MC stuff would say which mill the fabric is from or what cotton it's made from. Or selvedge denim you get details on fabric as well. Most MC footwear also has very clear sources for leather and other components. Baller sw&d footwear as well. There is also which part of the cow section is used which could cause great differences in final product (like the meermins using same museum leather as john lobb but using lots of sections that john lobb discarded thus resulting in poor creasing in areas that normally shouldn't be creased)

Leather jackets might be harder to gauge unless you see it in person. And as future sailors and others have mentioned it also depends on how the jacket is intended to be designed / used. The 5 zip I just got has nice thicker leather but it's not amazing. Smells slightly chemically, and leather at stitch points on front zips is already quite wrinkled. But it feels perfect for the jacket weight wise and drapes as it's intended. And given drew only has 5 zips I put it in my head that it's probably nicer than it actually is. I have a N. Hollywood bomber that has thinner calf but is a much nicer leather than the MMM in both feel and wear. I haven't worn it enough though as it's been too hot so no idea how it will age. Sold my TOJ bomber since i preferred a more matte leather and calf over lamb for a bomber. All quality pieces but very different leathers. Also factor in pricing, TOJ is a steal at retail price, MMM definitely not. And N. Hollywood was priced quite high though in line with other Japanese brands
post #10146 of 11618
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post

@futuresailors
 What if full grain leather isn't necessary? What if split grain can achieve the visual effect in a jacket like the one futuresailors posted? Which brings us back to drew's claim that the Burberry leather, something that costs thousands, only costs them $50 to produce. Can we really say that, if a leather jacket is only costing a brand $50-$100 to produce and selling for $2k-$3k, that it's "good" quality, even if it achieves the intended aesthetic?

Curious about this claim about the Burberry leather; I missed that. Is this referencing the Brit line or any Burberry leather, because I've noticed quite a difference between Prorsum and Brit, but the latter is not $2K (rather $800). On a similar note, what does $50 to produce mean...the whole jacket, just the leather itself, etc.
post #10147 of 11618

@stevent I didn't mean to imply that people don't care about textile quality, but rather than there isn't the same preoccupation with how substantial textiles are.  If Fashion House X produced a heavy wool blazer and a thin super 150s wool blazer, the thick wool wouldn't be considered better quality just because it's thicker.  Switch "leather" for "wool" and you'll see that very judgment being passed.

 

@Distorbiant I think the value of leather in a fashion context is that, unlike most other materials, it carries some cultural connotations (rebellious, luxurious, "edgy", etc).  With leather, you're not just paying for the material, but its implications as well. 

post #10148 of 11618
Quote:
Originally Posted by SirGrotius View Post

Curious about this claim about the Burberry leather; I missed that. Is this referencing the Brit line or any Burberry leather, because I've noticed quite a difference between Prorsum and Brit, but the latter is not $2K (rather $800). On a similar note, what does $50 to produce mean...the whole jacket, just the leather itself, etc.

well those are three different tiers of the line there; Prorsum > Burberry > Brit.
post #10149 of 11618
Quote:
Originally Posted by Kid Nickels View Post


well those are three different tiers of the line there; Prorsum > Burberry > Brit.

 

I believe it was a regular Burberry costing $1300 in 2009. 

post #10150 of 11618
^ ya ok... and I agree with what you said above... almost certainly not worth it. Very little if any of their stuff is still produced in Wales or the UK since they moved manufacturing to China. Just that branding and marketing ...
post #10151 of 11618

If you look at the original post he also talks about how Burberry has larger overheads for storefronts and advertising and such.

 

Besides, how can you call a jacket good quality if it can't hold a sandwich, passport, and a book?

post #10152 of 11618
^Lol at RO reference
post #10153 of 11618
post #10154 of 11618
For those who have/tried both, how do XS Rick Owens jackets fit size-wise compared to Julius size 1? Or does it vary on season/model?

I have an 09 Julius jut neck which is borderline too tight to wear zipped up comfortably. I'm a slimmish/athletic build, definitely not skinny
Edited by Elysium - 2/16/14 at 3:14am
post #10155 of 11618

It varies. This last season of rick ran about 2  US sizes small. 

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