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Leather Jackets: Post Pictures of the Best You've Seen/Owned? - Page 676

post #10126 of 11940

I have a question for you guys:

What makes jacket leather 'good' quality?

Is it the thickness? The texture? The treatment? The hand feel? Is a leather good quality if it has that rubbery, meaty feel to it? Is it bad if it has that dry, smooth feel?

 

There are some designers that treat their lambskin so heavily that it ends up feeling almost like pleather in terms of hand feel, to the point to where it doesn't have that feeling of wet, fleshy silk when held loosely. At the same time there are entry-level brands like Schott who put out a naked cowhide leather that feels very substantial in that rubbery type of way that just feels like 'good quality' to hold.

 

I just feel like there are elements I'm not quite getting here in terms of gauging quality. 

post #10127 of 11940

I think someone said this before.

 

Styleforum logic:

Great quality = if you like it.

Bad quality = if you don't like it. 

post #10128 of 11940
Quote:
Originally Posted by einstine View Post
 

Great quality = if SF likes it.

Bad quality = if SF doesn't like it. 

ftfy

post #10129 of 11940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post

I have a question for you guys:


What makes jacket leather 'good' quality?
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
Is it the thickness? The texture? The treatment? The hand feel? Is a leather good quality if it has that rubbery, meaty feel to it? Is it bad if it has that dry, smooth feel?

There are some designers that treat their lambskin so heavily that it ends up feeling almost like pleather in terms of hand feel, to the point to where it doesn't have that feeling of wet, fleshy silk when held loosely. At the same time there are entry-level brands like Schott who put out a naked cowhide leather that feels very substantial in that rubbery type of way that just feels like 'good quality' to hold.

I just feel like there are elements I'm not quite getting here in terms of gauging quality. 

I'm sure most don't want to hear it, but let's face it, if your leather is $400 it's not going to be as nice as $4000. Yes, there is a scale of diminishing returns as you price up, but that's part of the luxury equation.
post #10130 of 11940
One of the things that struck me at the Saint Laurent boutique was that even though the jackets were not distressed in any way, the leather had "crinkling" in a lot of places that looked more like paper than like leather. I don't know that this is actually indicative of bad quality, but it looked cheap to me.
post #10131 of 11940
I have the same problem I think Distorbiant. I can tell different leather jackets feel and look different but I couldn't say which feeling/look is indicative of better quality.
post #10132 of 11940
It's hard to define. Some leather are meant to be sturdy and be able to take a beating like Schotts and others that are actually meant for riding while others like Ann D tends to be on the thinner and softer side to drape better but quality is still good, they don't use cheap ones Wilsons use.


Good quality leather jacket doesn't end with good leather used, build and construction also plays a part because whats the point of using the best leather available if the jacket falls apart?
post #10133 of 11940

ok more seriously, I think it's all pretty subjective. quality of leather itself is probably mostly about thickness, grain, sheen but you can't just look at that on its own in any of these streetwear brands. the dye and extra treatments are a large part of the appeal, and that varies quite a bit based on intended aesthetic. I think the best gauge is really just to wear it and decide if you look/feel cool enough to not mind the price tag. I am also just making all this shit up.

post #10134 of 11940

Honestly, quality is simply personal preference. 

post #10135 of 11940

Well I can assure you that isn't true.

post #10136 of 11940

I don't buy the "If you like it, it's good quality" argument. There has to be such a thing as objectively high quality leather. Otherwise the TOJ thread wouldn't have been masturbating to NZ lamb for so many years (and rightfully so).

 

I suppose artisanal fashion blurs the lines the most when the desired aesthetic of the leather takes precedence over pure quantifiable leather quality. I just can't help but feel that some of these designers are using finishes and processing as an excuse to use poor leather for their creations, simply because no one can tell what the true quality is--if that matters.

 

Here's a quote by Drew about a burberry leather:

Quote:
Originally Posted by impolyt_one View Post
I seriously bet that Burberry's own cost on that jacket is less than $50 (5 thin hides, some processing, a few zippers they order gazillions of, and some lining they also order a gazillion yards of, all made by children), maybe even quite lower depending on where it's made. 
 
 

Perhaps one of our local designers like @Zamb can shed some light on this. His leathers have a reputation for quality by SFers who own them.

post #10137 of 11940

http://putthison.com/post/25094786416/how-to-examine-quality-in-leather-goods-part-i-i

 

I think the takeaway from this is that you want full grain leather as opposed to corrected grain, and you want unblemished hides without defects.

post #10138 of 11940

@LaymanX  with all due respect, most people here know what full grain leather is. This discussion of quality is framed within the context of leather used in mid to high-end leather jackets.

post #10139 of 11940
Quote:
Originally Posted by RFX45 View Post

It's hard to define. Some leather are meant to be sturdy and be able to take a beating like Schotts and others that are actually meant for riding while others like Ann D tends to be on the thinner and softer side to drape better but quality is still good, they don't use cheap ones Wilsons use.


Good quality leather jacket doesn't end with good leather used, build and construction also plays a part because whats the point of using the best leather available if the jacket falls apart?

 

I'd say it's more along these lines.  In general, the evenness of the grain and size of the hides are factors, but the purpose of the jacket has a lot to do with what qualities of the leather will be considered quality.  If you're getting a leather jacket for durability, the thickness and stiffness of the leather as well as the seam construction (open vs closed, single vs double stitched, etc) would probably be at the top of the list for what makes a quality jacket. When you get into the aesthetic side of things, the physical quality of the leather used can vary to suit the garment's structural needs, because at this point, leather is just a material, and there aren't huge debates about how the thickness of cotton determines a cotton jacket's quality.

 

For example:

Louis Vuitton Fall 2010 

The leather on this is literally paper-thin, like a 40 lb stock, and it's treated to be kind of waxy.  But it's designed to emulate a nylon anorak, which would normally made of a fairly thin material, which is itself usually somewhat slick with a sheen. So, even though the leather itself isn't thick or tough, I'd still give it the "quality" stamp of approval.  It's well constructed and finished (the stitches are straight and even, etc) and the leather's physical qualities were consciously chosen to support the jacket's aesthetic.

post #10140 of 11940
Quote:
Originally Posted by Distorbiant View Post
 

@LaymanX  with all due respect, most people here know what full grain leather is. This discussion of quality is framed within the context of leather used in mid to high-end leather jackets.

 

Ah.. roger. I think once you get past the basic requirement of full grain unblemished leather, it becomes subjective no?

 

Some people would consider the buttery soft lambskin from ToJ or SLP to be the epitome of quality while others would prefer a hard wearing horse hide. Both could potentially be considered high end leather but share very little in thickness, stiffness, hand feel characteristics.

 

edit: Futuresailors said it way better than me. lol

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