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tailors in seoul korea? - Page 19

post #271 of 524
hey impolyt
you are still in korea?
who is your go-to tailor? do you have a favorite?
post #272 of 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by pvrhye View Post

The shirts I got must have been from the same factory. The collar stays are definitely fused right into the collars. The fabric was alright at Dynasty though. Last batch of shirts had some wonky buttons, which I really wasn't happy with, so I'm probably done with them for shirts. Always got good service on my suits though (just gotta be clear with what you want so you don't get a horrible style).

Not necessarily the same factory; the point I was making was that the models and work flows used across Korea (and this pretty much goes for any kind of business) are the same. They don't spend time worrying about that stuff when they can copy. Get somebody who has worked elsewhere, get them to set up the new stuff, etc, and it spawns on, unchanged.
You probably weren't here to notice this, but there was a breaking point where all the cheap DDM and street stuff like women's shoes, clothes - those went from being all Korean made to being largely imported from China, etc. Just couldn't keep selling at the same prices, they used to have women's shoes at like 3 pairs for 20,000W. Anyway, with those, those were factory runoff of the same thing they were selling in department stores for like 200,000W, and those too were like the men's shirt situation - they were made on the same lasts year after year, had by and large the same patterns, but the materials and detailing were changed model to model obviously. Still, there was always something awkward about them, that made them look cheap when put next to steel-shafted Italian made women's shoes. I saw a picture of a woman in Myongdong in like, 1965, and sure enough, her heels looked just like the ones they sold 5 years ago. Same last, same pump, etc. There are a lot of examples of this. Men's shoes are the exact same story. Basically, the reason the things like removable collar stays on shirts, felted undercollars on suit jackets, welted and steel shafted shoe construction never take place in Korea is that Koreans in the days of yore just learned from looking at pictures of stuff in foreign magazines, etc. They never had any real examples to reverse engineer, so the things they couldn't see, they just didn't include, naturally.

It's not inherently bad, and it's not like a restaurant re-using food or something, it's not that. It's just that these big-volume factories exist to produce junk that they know will be thrown away within 3 months, and so they've never bothered to really seek any new technologies after the American mall brand stores stopped producing stuff here in the '80's and '90s, and they've never rearranged their work flows, or improved on their value. I think someday we'll wake up and the clothing factories will just be completely gone. People will want 10,000W an hour minimum wage to work at McDonald's, nobody will want to sew.
It's a shame because Koreans did a decent job at it when they did truly do it. They could re-arrange their manufacturing setups to be a value proposition. Nobody will though, very stubborn, and the more time you spend arguing with a Korean person nowadays about things that will benefit them, that is just time off your life at that point. Koreans are all just driving themselves to the brink of an economic holocaust here, for the sake of their pride.
Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post

hey impolyt
you are still in korea?
who is your go-to tailor? do you have a favorite?

I've been using Savile Row. They are about 80% there - the service is alright, the workmanship is 90%, the fit is always good (this is their real value)... but I came in with a friend to refer, and got talked into buying a second suit, and they still weren't gonna give me a discount. I was about ready to say I'd never use Savile Row again, but my friend went back for a fitting and told them they did me wrong, and they coughed up a pretty meager 50,000W discount. I am still kind of peeved about that, considering I know what the numbers on this stuff are, and I was giving them the easiest sale in history - same pattern as the first, in-house fabric, yada, yada...

I have a private source in my own factory now, so I am gonna probably have him try making me suits reverse engineered from the SR ones. I might try have him making me one, but am not hoping for much. Can't just take a tape measure to a jacket and have it turn out that well. You gotta start from the body and have a paper pattern.

In reality though, I am likely to start testing out Japanese bespoke, as well as a lot of Japanese OTR stuff that I get tailored to fit. The prices between well-made Japanese OTR stuff in great fabric and the Korean crapshoot stuff in good fabric are no different. It's a no-brainer really.
post #273 of 524
oh
so you are in the clothing industry somehow
no wonder you know so much about designers and the actual manufacturing process and what not

well i got my first suit made at savile row and just ordered a second one from them
i am very happy with the quality of the suit for the money
i would be willing to spend a little more if there is a noticeable difference in the fit and feel
but for now, savile row's price point and product is perfect for me
post #274 of 524
Savile Row will be fine. They're generally good all around, better than Hahn's. Also, despite being twice what you paid at the other places, it will be more than twice as good, and last more than twice as long, so the price is fair enough.
post #275 of 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post



holy cow
are those suits canvassed at all? or fused?
how do they make a profit if they are making you an actual suit for $150 or less?


 

On another forum for Western expats in Korea I messaged with a guy who had used Mr. Ban for 10+ years and considered him the best guy in Korea.  Mr. Ban also told me his suits were fully canvassed (although to be fair, there are CERTAINLY unscrupulous Korean vendors out there).  His suits on display were canvassed at least along the lapel.  His materials however did not seem as nice as what the other guys were running, so I'd imagine that's part of his cost (and one of the reasons I went with Mr. Lim).  At that price, I would definitely not mind giving him a shot were I to go back for an extended period of itme.

post #276 of 524
You touch the suit anywhere to find out where there is canvassing. It feels like canvas. Hence they call it canvassing.
post #277 of 524
non-dick answer - the type canvas you need to make a suit, even the cheap stuff sold in Korea, is too expensive per yard for them to put into a $300 suit. The canvas itself, the cheap type, is about $15 a yard here. It can go way up from there, and if you knew what they looked like, you get to verify at the jacket fitting stage before they attach the collar piece to the jacket, when the jacket is half basted.
post #278 of 524
Hmm, so from what I'm reading, going to tailors for alterations are often a no-go. Can anyone recommend a "clothing repair" that speaks English, preferably near Sinchon/City Hall? If not, tips for finding one?

I have a 3/4 length wool coat with a torn lining, and I'd like to have it replaced. Should I still go to a clothing repair shop, or try a tailor?
post #279 of 524
go to the line of alteration shops directly in front of the main gate of Ewha. There is a cluster of about 5-10 alteration/repair shops there and scattered around the vicinity. Tailors don't do alterations unless you have bought significant amounts of product from them, you need to be in the several thousand dollar club before they start doing your laundry basically.
post #280 of 524
They could reline my jacket, too? Should I bring fabric, or will they have it / source it somehow?

Also from what I've read, I might as well get shirts from places that do only shirts, as opposed to suit tailors. Any names I should be looking for? And again, any near Sinchon/Ewha/City Hall?
post #281 of 524
Hi,
I hope I'm not hijacking the thread, but does anyone of you know where to find a decent tailor in Busan?
post #282 of 524
my reorder from savile row came!

rps20110927_143407.jpg

"this suit is NOT black!" -borat
midnight blue

rps20110927_143339.jpg

sorry the pictures don't show all the details too well
maybe i can get better pictures up later

i asked mr.choi to make the pants waist 1/2 inch smaller than my first order
asked for everything else to be same
the suit fits beautifully
i am very happy with this suit
and feel confident in reordering some more in the future

the only thing would be choosing the fabric
for now i've stuck to solid charcoal and midnight blue... i guess i would need a fabric swatch
Edited by XKxRome0ox - 9/29/11 at 5:46pm
post #283 of 524
wish i could make another trip to korea...
want to get my next suit made a bit longer (i asked mr.choi to shorten the jacket length at my fitting... i shortened it a little too much)

during the past few months, i bought and returned a hickey freeman suit from the neiman outlet... it was $340 or so... but after tailoring, it would have cost upwards of $400
at which point, i'd rather just get another suit sent from savile row for a little more

and i just picked up a brand new brooks brothers suit (saxxon wool, glen plaid in fitzgerald cut) off ebay for just $265ish but i am spending $80 on tailoring it
still a good deal and it does feel very well made
but it doesn't quite have that "made for me" feel... and i don't have working cuff buttons on these O_O
but i should at least wait for it to be tailored to see how it looks and feels then




for those who've commissioned suits at savile row and/or hanh's and like places...
is it worth paying extra for the imported fabric? or is it no longer such a great value as just using the domestic wool?
post #284 of 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by XKxRome0ox View Post

wish i could make another trip to korea...
want to get my next suit made a bit longer (i asked mr.choi to shorten the jacket length at my fitting... i shortened it a little too much)
during the past few months, i bought and returned a hickey freeman suit from the neiman outlet... it was $340 or so... but after tailoring, it would have cost upwards of $400
at which point, i'd rather just get another suit sent from savile row for a little more
and i just picked up a brand new brooks brothers suit (saxxon wool, glen plaid in fitzgerald cut) off ebay for just $265ish but i am spending $80 on tailoring it
still a good deal and it does feel very well made
but it doesn't quite have that "made for me" feel... and i don't have working cuff buttons on these O_O
but i should at least wait for it to be tailored to see how it looks and feels then
for those who've commissioned suits at savile row and/or hanh's and like places...
is it worth paying extra for the imported fabric? or is it no longer such a great value as just using the domestic wool?

I don't see much point in importing fabric for the most part. The Korean stuff's quite good, so unless you have some very specific on your mind like Tonik or something that isn't popular in Korea like tweed, I'd use domestic fabric.
post #285 of 524
Quote:
Originally Posted by pvrhye View Post

I don't see much point in importing fabric for the most part. The Korean stuff's quite good, so unless you have some very specific on your mind like Tonik or something that isn't popular in Korea like tweed, I'd use domestic fabric.

I would have to disagree.
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