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The Amazing Blazer Suit - Page 14

post #196 of 203
Thread Starter 
Originally Posted by brescd01 View Post
2) What are swelled edges?

At the edge of a lapel or pocket flap (or patch pocket), there is a narrow band of "tape" that reinforces the edge of the innards. Actually, I know this is true of a lapel, but I don't think there is tape inside a pocket flap. However, there is a narrow band of excess cloth -- the seam allowance -- that has been folded back and tucked under the facing (showing) cloth.

Anyway, this seam allowance (and, where appliciable, tape) is inside the pocket flap or lapel. You can't see it. It's covered by the top cloth that is meant to show. Tailors typically reinforce the edge -- the very edge, milimeters from where it ends -- with a pick stitch that holds all the layers together and maintains a crispness to edge.

However, sometimes they add an additional stitch, a centimeter or two from the edge, that runs parallel to the one at the extreme edge. This second stitch highlights the additional width caused by the seam allowances and the tape, making the edge appear to be a bit swelled or thicker than the rest of the lapel. Actually, on all lapels the edge is thicker because of the tape and the seam allowances. But without that second stitch, you will probably not notice unless you feel it with your fingers.
post #197 of 203
Thanks. I love the suit, if only because it shows what is possible with bespoke (and good taste).
post #198 of 203
I don't know if anyone's mentioned it yet, but Ralph Lauren has used Manton's idea - I saw a Polo BlazerSuit earlier today... with a gold buttoned blazer!! At first I thought someone just mistakenly hung a blazer over an odd pair of trousers, but the material was identical on both and I could only see one price tag...
post #199 of 203
Swiss Army Suit now on Steed's blog.
post #200 of 203
I'm thinking of having the blazer suit made in January.
post #201 of 203
Wow so amazingly versatile. I like 10/10.
post #202 of 203
Originally Posted by pocketsquareguy View Post
I'm thinking of having the blazer suit made in January.

Swelled edges as well?
post #203 of 203

I like the look of brown buttons on a blue blazer. Very subtle and classy.


Originally Posted by Manton View Post

Originally Posted by kngrimm View Post
work on the shitty buttons on your shirt =p

MOP. Not the best MOP, but good enough for me.


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