Custom shirts - Page 6

Shirtmaven, I'm glad you mentioned darts. Are these a sign of a poorly made custom shirt, or are they a necessity to achieve a slim fit at the waist?

Darts are simply a way of giving the shirt shape at the waist. Hiding the excess fabric in the back. A shirt can be shaped at the side seams but only so much. To much taper at the sides will effect the fit. Darts work well for Body builders and people with Sway or hollow back. The custom shop used darts for years because it was easier to shape the shirt with a sewing machine then cutting the bundles of shirts, and Then trimming down the side seams while the shirts were still on the cutting table

Shirtmaven, Many thanks. Incidentally, what is sway or hollow back?

Originally posted by Looking to Improve: I was in the store very briefly on Saturday. The Maffeis' look like a nice shirt: good single needle stitching, nice armhole attachment, plus good selection of fabric. I would suggest you try one and see how you like it.

Originally posted by T4phage: Well, I suppose in a month or so, when I've gathered all my courage I'll order a 'test-shirt' by Maffeis. Thank you for the feedback, I'm not all that great an expert on judging construction(-quality) so a more expert opinion is (always) helpful. I'll be sure to let you know how I like it when I receive the shirt. MtB.

The one Maffeis shirt that I have is indeed, quite nice. The only quibble I have is with the collar, which doesn't have the shape or elegance of a fine neapolitan collar.

As a reminder: I finally gathered all my courage and ordered the (m-t-m) 'test-shirt' yesterday. It's an 'antique'-striped blue shirt, french cuffs, and high spread-collar. I'm a bit anxious about the degree of spread but can't wait to see the end result. Estimated delivery time: about 4 weeks... MtB