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Custom shirts - Page 5

post #61 of 82
Originally posted by Looking to Improve:
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..Florence... And I probably will go, because I still want to peek inside Neuber's and revisit Eredi Chiarini Royal. It shan't be soon, though... Where would I find this outlet centre?
If you are going to Italy soon, shy don't you buy your MTM shirt there since it is alway cheaper (by at least Euro 50) than ordering it in Nederlands?
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I do go to Oger in The Hague... They also are the Maffeis enthusiasts.
I haven't been there for awhile, I'll check out those Maffeis' soon. As an aside, if you like Santonis, check out Klijsen near Bonnetrie on Hoogstraat, they have a pretty good sale on the handmade (goodyear) monkstrap, nice casual shoe.
post #62 of 82
T4phage, Good question. No, I wasn't ordering an existing suit. I went to Condotti, selected some fabric, and was asked what features I wanted in the suit. I don't remember having an extensive discussion about the matter, or being shown any style books, quite possibly because what the salesman was proposing was perfectly fine with me. I was somewhat surprised, though, by the salesman's method of measuring for the suit. As I mentioned before, the suit looks very nice, and it certainly fits me, but I can't help wondering whether it could have been just that bit better tailored. If you want to know all of the details, I could add that the MTM shirts I ordered at the same time came with sleeves that were slightly too long. However, I simply mailed them off to the NY store, which fixed them immediately, and mailed them right back to me, all at no charge.
post #63 of 82
Originally posted by T4phage:
Quote:
Originally posted by Looking to Improve:
Quote:
..Florence... And I probably will go, because I still want to peek inside Neuber's and revisit Eredi Chiarini Royal. It shan't be soon, though... Where would I find this outlet centre?
If you are going to Italy soon, shy don't you buy your MTM shirt there since it is alway cheaper (by at least Euro 50) than ordering it in Nederlands?
Actually, I'm not going anytime soon :-( . A EUR 50,00 saving per m-t-m shirt would have been worthwile. Originally posted by T4phage:
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Quote:
I do go to Oger in The Hague...  They also are the Maffeis enthusiasts.
I haven't been there for awhile, I'll check out those Maffeis' soon. As an aside, if you like Santonis, check out Klijsen near Bonnetrie on Hoogstraat, they have a pretty good sale on the handmade (goodyear) monkstrap, nice casual shoe.
I would be VERY interested in your opinion about the Maffeis' shirts. I still need to check out the Santoni's. I have no experience with them and may decide to 'remain faithful' to E.Green... They fit me very well. MtB
post #64 of 82
Originally posted by friendlyone:
Quote:
If you want to know all of the details, I could add that the MTM shirts I ordered at the same time came with sleeves that were slightly too long. However, I simply mailed them off to the NY store, which fixed them immediately, and mailed them right back to me, all at no charge.
What happened after laundering? Some of my custom shirts initally are a touch longer, but after two washings are perfectly fitted. Originally posted by Looking to improve:
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I would be VERY interested in your opinion about the Maffeis' shirts. I still need to check out the Santoni's. I have no experience with them and may decide to 'remain faithful' to E.Green... They fit me very well.
I sure will, I may possibly check it out this weekend.
post #65 of 82
T4phage, I washed them a few times, but the sleeves were still too long, so I sent them to Brioni in New York, together with a custom shirt from Ascot Chang to use as a model. I must say that I was very impressed: they altered them promptly and perfectly, and sent them back to me via FedEx, all at no charge.
post #66 of 82
Originally posted by friendlyone:
Quote:
...washed them a few times, but the sleeves were still too long, so I sent them to Brioni in New York, together with a custom shirt from Ascot Chang to use as a model. I must say that I was very impressed: they altered them promptly and perfectly, and sent them back to me via FedEx, all at no charge.
It is good that everything turned out okay in the end. I am still puzzeled by the treatment that you got when they measured you up. Usually they do a physical (on your body) measurement eg: arms, shoulders, length, etc. Then they also check which suit size you fit closest too. From your description they have omitted the physical measurement step. Plus you said that they did not show you the various models available.
post #67 of 82
Quote:
I can't wait until my sample shirt is ready - around mid-January.
Cpal, With all the meanderings this topic has taken I had forgotten that you were expecting your Geneva shirts. How was the try on? Have you received the full order yet? Are you happy with the results? Thanks.
post #68 of 82
Thread Starter 
I actually just received my sample shirt a few days ago, laundered it and wore it yesterday for the first time.  Great fit - I've gotten shirts from a number of different places and must admit that Mike at Geneva did an exceptional job.  The only changes that I requested when calling to have them finish the rest of the order were to tighten the right cuff a quarter inch and to change from the quarter-inch stitching around collar/cuffs to edge stitching.  The body fit was great - fitted but not at all tight, no bunching around the waist, accomodated well for my sloping shoulders and had a nice fit to the sleeves (not too full and tapered well to my hand).  With more of an "athletic" build I've had various shirtmakers over-accomodate by making the shoulders and chest a little too wide and the armholes big enough to drive a truck through.  Mike did an exceptional job with the damaged goods he was working with (me).  He cut the points of the collar a little wider than I am used to but I agree with his recommendation that it probably balances out my face/neck a little better than the other shirts that I have worn.  Highly recommended. The only remaining things that I am considering tinkering with in subsequent orders would be the fusing in the collar - he was the first person to ask me how "stiff" I wanted the collar to be.  He offered a shirt that was fused (hope I'm using the term correctly) half way - "stiff" at the points but "softer" starting at the sides of my neck through the back of the collar.  I left it in his hands and he fused (again hoping the term is used correctly) the whole collar - my only concern is that I understand dependant upon how these are laundered it might be more prone to shrinkage.  I am considering a softer collar for some casual non-work shirts I am planning to order. The only other consideration I have is with buttons - he used mop buttons that are nice - I was thinking about asking whether or not he can make some with the thicker "borrelli-type" buttons - for whatever reason I like the way they look. All-in-all Geneva is a keeper - not sure why but it seems people tend to stick with their tailors and "try out" a lot of shirtmakers.  My "trying" is over.
post #69 of 82
Anybody buy shirts on line from http://www.made2measureshirts.bizhosting.com/main.html American made from about $100
post #70 of 82
Has anyone tried both Geneva and Ascot Chang? If so, which is better?
post #71 of 82
Thread Starter 
Per above - Geneva Just my opinion.
post #72 of 82
Millerp The shirts being sold by made2measure.com by somebody in St. Louis are made in Newark, NJ. It is a decent garment. I never understand why guys will order so called cm/mtm shirts on line. The whole idea of having shirts made is to use the expertise of the person measuring you. I don't mean having some hot looking woman who was given a tape measure last week take your measurements. It takes a long time to learn how to ask the right questions to get the fit right. I also would never order fabrics from an on line shirtmaker. You can't see the true colors and you can't touch the fabric. I guess at $40 how far wrong can you go at jantzen. Even I am tempted to order a shirt to see what it is like. Both Geneva and Ascot Chang make excellent shirts. The collar making styles are very different.
post #73 of 82
Shirmaven You wrote: "Both Geneva and Ascot Chang make excellent shirts. The collar making styles are very different." Could you please elaborate on their collar making styles being very different? Than ks a lot Iñaki
post #74 of 82
Thank you Shirtmaven. Can't speak for anyone else who is thinking about ordering made to measure shirts on line, but my reason is that I live hundreds of miles from the nearest bespoke shirtmaker. Ready to wear shirts do not fit me. I need 37 inch sleeves and have a tall slim build. Also, I don't want to spend over $150 per shirt. Haven't tried to order on line yet. I may try Jantzen. Made2Measure in St Louis came up in a search. I suspected they were not actual manufacturers. Thanks again
post #75 of 82
The difference between Geneva and Ascot Chang mostly is when the collars are fused. I don't know if Geneva even offers a fused collar. It is rather hard for me to explain with out having both shirts in front of me. Millerp. For $40 try shirt from Jantzen. Sooner then a so called made to order shirt from lands end, Paul fredricks or Brooks Brothers. Do you plan to wear the shirt tucked in or worn out of the pants. Cheat on the hip measurement. make it a little smaller. so you get a trimmer cut at the waist. or ask for darts in the back for a slim fit. let me know if you have other questions I can answer. Carl Shirtmaven
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