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Custom shirts - Page 4

post #46 of 82
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Mr. Kabbaz, thanks so much for your time and input. Your two essays were very educational. I noticed your shirts seem to have the typical folded pleating on the sleeves; do you make shirts with the English-style, with small pleats surrounding the cuff, or is this not typically done anymore? (Except maybe at Turnbull, whose shirts I don't care for, in general)
Some of my shirts have the "typical" folded pleating on the sleeve. What you refer to as "small pleats" in the T&A style is actually shirring. This is an easier style to sew. We do it, and many other treatments, upon request. Custom is what the client says it should be.
post #47 of 82
On the subject of fine shirts, how many times should one wear a shirt before laundering? Goes without saying an undershirt is worn with it; I normally wear a shirt only once before washing if for work (on at about 7:50 AM, take it off around 7-7:30PM), but if the shirt is worn for church I get a second wear before laundering. Am I getting the maximum life out of my shirts this way?
post #48 of 82
I got a letter today from a client who got the letter from Peninou "Since 1930 French Laundry and Cleaners, Inc." in San Fransisco. I am absolutely disgusted - the laundry industry has now codified its ability to ruin shirts without penalty. I quote: "The International Fabricare Institute measures the average life expectancy of a dress shirt as two years, or approximately 35 to 50 washings (ANSI/IFI 1-1998). After this time the fabric of the shirt loses strength and becomes susceptible to tearing in the cleaning process. Worn shirts will tear in this manner despite the best handling and attention to detail on our part." The letter concludes with, "At Peninou, we take pride in our World-Class quality". Now whatever am I going to say to the client who sent me than 28 year old shirt for a new collar? Heck, should I be apologizing to my own personal 20 year old shirts for forcing them to slave above and beyond the ANSI standards. Next the darn shirts will be charging me with senior abuse. Foxx - you'd better keep track of the number of wearings and be sure to date your shirts when you get them. Remember, now ... two years and they're finished (ANSI/IFI 1-1998). So before today I would have said, If it has no odor, if you can get the ring out of the collar with a bit of Octagon, and if you haven't perspired the wrinkles into permanent creases, then by all means wear your church shirt yet another day. You might want to rethink that during mid-Summer, though. Darn sure I'll be putting that letter on the new web site.
post #49 of 82
Mr. Kabbaz, interestingly enough I saw that same sign specifying the "average life expectancy of a dress shirt as two years" in one of the "finer" dry cleaners here in McLean, Virginia. I have not returned since. Right now I am doing all my washing and ironing myself, by hand. I expect I'll get more than 30 washings out of shirt, easily. Montecristo#4
post #50 of 82
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Unlike your experiences with Borrelli suits, here in the Netherlands it is the opposite: Only one store carries Kiton - Pauw in Amsterdam.  The rest have been forced by Borrelli to choose between them and Kiton.  Unfortunately, the majority chose Borrelli.
T4phage: According to the Kiton website (www.kiton.it) there should also be a store selling Kiton in Maastricht. If my memory serves me, I believe I saw a Kiton suit or sport coat at the firm of Montulet, in the Maastrichter Smedenstraat, which is right in the heart of the city centre. Perhaps as an additional resource for you. Hope I've been of service. MtB
post #51 of 82
Originally posted by Looking to Improve:
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T4phage: According to the Kiton website (www.kiton.it) there should also be a store selling Kiton in Maastricht. If my memory serves me, I believe I saw a Kiton suit or sport coat at the firm of Montulet, in the Maastrichter Smedenstraat, which is right in the heart of the city centre. Perhaps as an additional resource for you. Hope I've been of service.
Thanks. I've heard of the store, but for me it is as far away as Brussels, and I'd rather go to Amsterdam. Most of the time I order the suit in Italy anyway and then get it picked up (or if additional fittings are required) in Amsterdam.
post #52 of 82
Originally posted by T4phage:
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Thanks.  I've heard of the store, but for me it is as far away as Brussels, and I'd rather go to Amsterdam.  Most of the time I order the suit in Italy anyway and then get it picked up (or if additional fittings are required) in Amsterdam.
I know Maastricht is rather out of the way for most people in the Netherlands. It is for me as well, approx. 230 km. Still, I try to make time to go there once in a while. I buy my shoes (Edward Green) there. Besides, it's a trip down memory lane for me: I attended Maastricht University. As an aside, I'm not in a position to buy my clothes abroad on anything approaching a regular basis. I do get the impression you are. Maybe one day... Until then I do what I can. Anyway, I just hoped to be of some assistance. MtB
post #53 of 82
Originally posted by Looking to Improve:
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I buy my shoes (Edward Green) there. Besides, it's a trip down memory lane for me: I attended Maastricht University.
You buy the E.Greens at Shoes and Shirts on Havenstraat right? For me and my wife, we prefer to go to Antwerpen and Brussels because of the wonderful suiker wafels and Pierre Marcolini chocolates , plus you get great shopping there to. Actually, we do most of our shopping in Italy, we go there on average twice a year, and we do try to get to the summer sales in August. You really should go there, the sales are wonderful, and you should check out their outlets near Florence if you are into Gucci, Zegna, L.Piana, Prada, D&G, the prices are good, and when you hit the sales, it is even better. About half to one third of the prices here in Nederlands.
post #54 of 82
Originally posted by T4phage:
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You buy the E.Greens at Shoes and Shirts on Havenstraat  right?
I do indeed. I first went there while still at Maastricht University (although not for the E.Greens, too pricey). I like the salesmen, their advice and I think they offer quite good service. I recently found a store in the city where I live (The Hague) that also sells E.Green, but the E.Green-shoes there are more expensive than at S&S (approx. EUR 65,00 more a pair). Since I have an 'OV-Jaarkaart' it is worth it for me to travel to Maastricht. O, as an aside, Montulet is very close to S&S. I also like Maastricht as a town, so going there is no punishment. Originally posted by T4phage:
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Actually, we do most of our shopping in Italy, we go there on average twice a year, and we do try to get to the summer sales in August. You really should go there, the sales are wonderful, and you should check out their outlets near Florence if you are into Gucci, Zegna, L.Piana, Prada, D&G, the prices are good, and when you hit the sales, it is even better.  About half to one third of the prices here in Nederlands.
I did go to Italy last (late) summer. To Tuscany to be more precise. Yet I went in september, mostly to avoid the tourist crowd, so I missed the sales. I did visit Florence, but did not do that much shopping. I was however able to find two items (tie and belt) I had been looking for for some time. Still it will probably be some time before I return. And going twice a year is something that may happen in the (hopefully not too distant) future. MtB
post #55 of 82
Originally posted by Looking to improve:
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....recently found a store in the city where I live (The Hague) that also sells E.Green, but the E.Green-shoes there are more expensive than at S&S (approx. EUR 65,00 more a pair).
You mean Edward Pelger's in Den Haag Hoogstraat? My problem with them is that they have a very limited selection, only about 5 styles and mostly in black. Shoes and Shirts have a much nicer selection, plus the colors that they have (the antiqued browns) are quite nice. At S&S they also carry some nice StefanoBis. Next time you go to Florence, it doesn't matter if you miss the sales, just head off to "The Mall" the outlet centre.
post #56 of 82
Originally posted by T4phage:
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You mean Edward Pelger's in Den Haag Hoogstraat?  My problem with them is that they have a very limited selection, only about 5 styles and mostly in black.  Shoes and Shirts have a much nicer selection, plus the colors that they have (the antiqued browns) are quite nice.  At S&S they also carry some nice StefanoBis.
Yes, I mean Eduard Pelger. I haven't inquired about the number of styles and colours they stock, but did notice the rather small selection on display, as opposed to the other shoes they carry. I do prefer S&S. I find Eduard Pelger a good resource for ties when on sale. Originally posted by T4phage:
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Next time you go to Florence, it doesn't matter if you miss the sales, just head off to "The Mall" the outlet centre.
Thank you for this advice. I will keep it in mind the next time I go. And I probably will go, because I still want to peek inside Neuber's and revisit Eredi Chiarini Royal. It shan't be soon, though... Where would I find this outlet centre? On the outskirts of Florence, or more towards the city center? And another thing. Bringing the 'conversation' more towards the original topic of the thread. Where in the The Hague area (where you seem to be familiar), or Amsterdam (also) would you advise me to try for (better quality) made-to-measure shirts. I posted a question on Andy's forum about Maffeis shirts. Thracozaag kindly responded, and mentioned Battistoni. I have no idea where I could find these except in Rome... Besides, a three or six shirt minimum order is a bit of a financial challenge... Any ideas and/or suggestions, or should just try the Maffeis shirts which, I'm told, can be made one at a time. Thanks in advance. MtB
post #57 of 82
Back to Brioni. In 2002, I went to their shop in Rome and ordered a suit. Perhaps the problem was that I was leaving the country soon, and so didn't have time to make a bespoke suit, but I found their fitting procedures highly unusual (for a suit costing so much money). Instead of being measured properly by a tailor, the salesman merely asked me to try on a jacket that was slightly too big, which he then marked up, as if he were merely going to alter it, rather than make an entirely new suit. I must say that the suit, when it arrived in the US, fit me quite well. It also had bespoke characteristics, such as real button holes. Still, I must say that the process left me a bit uneasy. Any other experiences? Josh
post #58 of 82
Originally posted by Looking To Improve:
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Yes, I mean Eduard Pelger. I haven't inquired about the number of styles and colours they stock, but did notice the rather small selection on display, as opposed to the other shoes they carry.
They don't stock that many models, but you can order EGs from them, also MTO. They have the EG swatch book so you can see the various colours and finishes.
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Where would I find this outlet centre? On the outskirts of Florence, or more towards the city center?
Outside the city, Via Europa 8, località Leccio, Reggello FI, tel. 055-8657775.
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And another thing. Bringing the 'conversation' more towards the original topic of the thread. Where in the The Hague area (where you seem to be familiar), or Amsterdam (also) would you advise me to try for (better quality) made-to-measure shirts........... Any ideas and/or suggestions, or should just try the Maffeis shirts which, I'm told, can be made one at a time. Thanks in advance.
As I've mentioned previously, I buy most of my dress clothing in Italy, but you can go to Oger (Amsterdam has better service) for MTM Borrelli, Zegna (Amsterdam) for MTM Zegna shirts, Pauw (Amsterdam) for Kiton MTM. Hope this helps.
post #59 of 82
Originally posted by friendlyone:
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...Brioni... but I found their fitting procedures highly unusual (for a suit costing so much money). Instead of being measured properly by a tailor, the salesman merely asked me to try on a jacket that was slightly too big, which he then marked up, as if he were merely going to alter it, rather than make an entirely new suit.
I'm really saddened to hear of your "unusual" measuring experience at Brioni. Being a long time customer, I've always had top notch service from them. May I enquire which Brioni store to went to? Barbarini or Condotti? I assume you were buying a Made To Measure, not a RTW suit that they did not have available at the time? Usually, with MTM, they just alter a pre-existing pattern to fit your measurements, not creating an entirely new pattern for you. Did they show you what various style/types of jacket/pants combinations were available? I am glad that the suit turned out well though.
post #60 of 82
Originally posted by T4phage:
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They don't stock that many models, but you can order EGs from them, also MTO.  They have the EG swatch book so you can see the various colours and finishes.
Still, for the difference in price, I'd rather go to S&S in Maastricht, where I also have more faith in the salesmen. Originally posted by T4phage:
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Outside the city, Via Europa 8, località Leccio, Reggello FI, tel. 055-8657775.
Thank you for the directions to the Florentine outlet centre. I'll be sure to remember. Originally posted by T4phage:
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As I've mentioned previously, I buy most of my dress clothing in Italy, but you can go to Oger (Amsterdam has better service) for MTM Borrelli, Zegna (Amsterdam) for MTM Zegna shirts, Pauw (Amsterdam) for Kiton MTM. Hope this helps.
You did mention buying your dress clothes in Italy. I had (and have) the impression you know a shop or two in the The Hague or Amsterdam area. So I asked, just to perhaps learn of a new address. I do go to Oger in The Hague. I have no problems with their service, but cannot say anything about the service in Amsterdam, simply because I've never bought anything there (yet). I buy my Ermenegildo Zegna Su Misura suits there. They also are the Maffeis enthusiasts. Thanks for the 'thinking along'. MtB
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