Originally Posted by daruma
great read. got several qs. pls correct when wrong 1. to form the 'feather' the insole is skived, meaning that the insole is carved then the inside is scooped out? 2. So say the insole is a quarter inch, after skiving, the crevice becomes 1/8"? 3. from my understanding, gemming is the linen tape vulcanized onto the insole and this creates a sort of borde or crevice. is feathering an alternative to gemming? in a way, a natural version of gemming?
Bengal-Stripe's explanation is spot on. I would point out however that "vulcanization" is a process to treat natural, crude rubber to make it more durable and elastic. It has nothing to do with gemming. Gemming is the linen or canvas strip that is glued to the bottom of a thin, often synthetic...fiberboard or leatherboard...insole as the basic for goodyear welting. It is a common technique that is used in most commercially made shoes. It is inherently weaker than the traditional leather to leather connection as it relies on the glue, as well as the tensile strength and integrity of the canvas, to hold the shoe together....neither of which are in the same league as leather if strength, resilience, and longevity are the objectives.