Shoes Explained - Page 8
Could somebody please explain what kind of construction is this? These shoes are made by a local Russian brand. Styling is tacky, but the leather is actually pretty good. What bothers me, is that I can't understand what kind of construction is that. It seems that this is not a Goodyear welting — because the stitching pattern on the welt and on the sole is different. I wonder, what is stitched and what is glued here.
I would say, the shoe is blake-stitched with a bonwelt in place. Bonwelts are leather strips which have the look of conventional welts but in reality, they serve only a decorative and no practical purpose.
Scroll down to 'bonwelts' in the catalogue. They come in 'endless' length, (rolls of 50 metres or so). Several have already a row of stitching in place,
Last the boots over the insole, glue the bonwelt in place. Glue on the middle sole (which probably has the rubber outer sole already attached). Then you remove the last from the shoes and guide the shoe through the blake stitching machine. One row of stitching will go through insole, the teeth of the bonwelt, middle and outer sole.
this shoe construction business is getting ever more varied. I guess this has been the case for some time, but the days where a list would always consists of the traditional, norvegese (and other triple stitches), gyear, blake-rapid, rapid , bologna , 'simply glue' are gone
tough luck for pic based internet examinations
dinowhite, yes, you are right. But the brand doesn't answer, and buying and disassembling the shoe isn't that practical either, so I thought that someone experienced here would be able to tell.
By the way, my lady friend has this pair of shoes by Hudson, and the construction seems to be pretty similar, at least the bonwelt and blake stitching part.
I understand that of course
but I do think that in many instances -especially if we are not talking about 'dress shoes', (but even then)- the actual 'construction' is not that important if the quality is right
Well, sure, when buying some cheap crap-kickers to get through the winter I generally could care less about their construction, but if the pair is Blake-stitched, like it looks to be the case with the pair above, it seems pretty ridiculous. Why don't they just glue them? Who knows what the collective mind of Russian designers and Chinese shoemakers thought of...
I have a blog that I started a couple of months ago that has a shoe style album of the different styles at (http://oldleathershoe.com/wordpress/?cat=11). The album is about half way down the Shoe Types and Styles post.