Am I going mad? There was a posting by "offshore observer" about the waist-treatment by Edward Green and other manufacturers. So I made up a reply. Now that I'm going to post it, it looks that offshore has pulled the original thread. In the words of Madame de Pompadour: "Apres nous le deluge", I'm still going to post it, even if it is into a vacuum:
I believe a said something on those lines that Edward Green produces "the nearest thing to a fiddle back waist". Edward Green has gone through a variety of upheavals and has changed production facilities. I am only talking about EG shoes in their most recent incarnation, what the Japanese website calls "New Green", i.e. after the split with John Lobb/Hermes. These models are easily recognised as (the single sole models) have the waist painted black, with the sole in natural tan leather. The old models have an all tan sole. There is a considerable difference in the shaping of the waist. I am just comparing two models, same size, fitting, last; one made for Paul Stuart in the mid 90s, the other one bought at Burlington Arcade in 2002. I haven't got a camera, so I cannot post pictures. Compare a genuine, handmade fiddleback waist with the EG version: http://members.jcom.home.ne.jp/welt-sh....ge1.htm
The top pair is EG factory made and in the current specifications. (Although the sole is all black, maybe at the customer's request.) The other pair is Cleverley, all hand made. Of course, the Cleverley waist is much nicer, which had to be expected. I agree with old Tricker shoes. I have a pair of (second hand) crocodile slip-ons, which were made by Tricker's, I would guess, in the 1960s. They are really beautifully made. To see really nice factory-made shoes visit the C&J shop at London's Royal Exchange. They display a few samples, made before WW1 or early 1920s. Now, those are nice shoes. No modern RTW shoe comes close to them in the quality of craftsmanship. Offshore observer, what about re-instating your post?