More importantly: how long are the new pre-orders going to be open?
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www.ehaberdasher.com - affiliate page - Page 210post #3136 of 36155/5/16 at 8:17ampost #3137 of 36155/5/16 at 9:20ampost #3138 of 36155/5/16 at 9:25amQuote:Originally Posted by eHaberdasher
For those not on our email list, the new pre-orders are on the site:
The brown melange is an easy call for me. Thanks Ben.post #3139 of 36155/5/16 at 10:40amQuote:Originally Posted by eHaberdasher
The more Neapolitan brands with the softer shoulder are generally cut fuller, at least this has been my experience with Kiton, Attolini, Isaia, although I have not tried any of their more recent garments (past year or two). In the Benjamin Sartorial I wear a 38R perfectly, and in the Bella Spalla I'm actually better off with a 36R.
Ah! I was wondering about the measurements on the site, so I ordered a 38S and 36S to try on before putting in my MTO order. Noticed the jackets are quite short, too; I might be more of a 36R.post #3140 of 36155/6/16 at 3:24amQuote:Originally Posted by prozach1576
Sure - the ones I'm thinking of specifically are by Corneliani, Caruso, and Suitsupply (the Napoli - the Lazio and Hudson, off the top of me head, fit me OTR).
To be clear, I think I'm going to be perfectly happy with the altered jacket; I'm just saying that the chest was fuller than I'd prefer for a 38R, especially with such soft and close-fitting shoulders.Quote:Originally Posted by UserNameToronto
I've only bought your suits and jackets for the past several years. If I'm not in a Benjamin Sartorial suit, I'm usually wearing a Bella Spalla jacket. I love them, they're fairly priced, and I get compliments on them all the time. If you lowered/raised the breast pocket by 1cm, or changed the lapels by 1cm, I wouldn't even notice.
I'm now living in Toronto, Canada and getting clothing here is hard. I have to contend with the exchange rate, as well as shipping fees that are high, plus duties.
It would be so much easier for me to know a 36R is a 36R. I like knowing my size and having things fit consistently...that's why I've standardized my suits in the first place! I vote for keeping the same fit/measurements across the different lines. I want to login to your site, choose a grey one or a blue one or whatever, and know it's going to work. I have enough problems in life, I would prefer to take the guesswork out of my clothing if at all possible.
[edit - that sounded a bit ranty I know, but I just wanted to put this viewpoint out there!]
Thanks. To be honest I'm not sure what lies ahead for the Sartorial line as production timing and priority has been an ongoing issue. Some customers have found the new Nobile model to be too slim, whereas it seems to have won over others that found the Classico to be too full and broad in the shoulders. Unfortunately there is no one model fits all... but that's the nature of the beast. And when introducing different shoulders/styles/silhouettes, let alone different manufacturers, it only further adds to the differences a few millimeters can make in a garment. In my opinion, the Nobile 38R is like the Bella Spalla 36R, so indeed a size down. But we've also found that a minority percentage (maybe 20%) of people who have bought the Nobile model end up exchanging and going a size up, but again the style/silhouette difference has to be taken into account where the Nobile is meant to be quite fitted in contrast to a softer shouldered sport jacket.
I made a few samples with another factory in Naples that allegedly had the pattern for one of Isaia's models (can't remember which one) and they just weren't quite right, even though they had the pattern. The whole process is not as straightforward as it may seem...
All this being said I really am open to suggestion because at the end of the day you guys are core customers and I greatly value your feedback. Would you suggest that I relabel the sizing of the Bella Spalla up a size, ie. make a current Bella Spalla 36R a 38R? This would closely size similarly to the Sartorial line Nobile fit in a 38R. The good thing is that the Benjamin Sartorial label is completely different from the Benjamin Bella Spalla label (currently just working through the Bella Spalla labels that I originally had made).
As I alluded to before I am trying to see if I can produce full canvas in Italy also.post #3141 of 36155/6/16 at 3:27ampost #3142 of 36155/6/16 at 3:30amQuote:
I'm not sure you should go with a 36R... I'm 5'10" and wear the 36R. If you're 5'8" or under (and your body somewhat averagely proportioned) you probably want to stick with the Short imo.post #3143 of 36155/6/16 at 10:24amQuote:
Interesting, thanks. I saw the 36R had a length of 28.5", which matches the length of my 38S Classico suit. It's a length I'm used to, so my instinct drew me to it.
Just got in the 36S and 38S Bella Spalla jackets I ordered to try on. Both are beautiful jackets. Something I appreciated that I don't think comes through on the product photos: the top of the hip patch pockets aren't straight, they slope down toward the front.
Here are my observations to maybe help others decide on a fit ... I'm normally a 38S, here's a pic of me wearing the 38S:
Definitely a more swelled chest than I'm used to. Not necessarily a bad thing, just different. Some might say more masculine.
The 36S was closer to how I usually like jackets to fit; closer to the chest, and the shoulders seemed more sloped. Kind of a more relaxed vibe.
For what it's worth, my wife thought the 38S fit better on me. Maybe that's all that matters in the end.post #3144 of 36155/6/16 at 11:00ampost #3145 of 36155/6/16 at 3:46pmpost #3146 of 36155/7/16 at 8:19amQuote:
I haven't had enough time with my Benjamin jacket to speak to the quality of the construction but the fabric is several tiers above anything I've handled from Suitsupply.post #3147 of 36155/7/16 at 8:46amThe Benjamin suit uses 140s wool while suitsuppy generally used 110s. I wear suits infrequently so I can't comment on longevity, but the fabric is softer and drapes better in my Benjamin suit. My suit and Bella spalla jacket are better quality IMO than my suitsupply. But I think either are good value for the money. But I strongly prefer supporting @ehaberdasher@eHaberdasher than handing my money to a giant company because I feel more involved in the process thus more invested. I have the original Bella Spalla and I greatly appreciate being able to provide feedback that is incorporated into future versions.
With that said, some feedback. I just got he new flannel pants. The construction, fit and fabric are outstanding. The major change I'd suggest is the pocket depth. All the pockets seem short to me and I'd prefer deeper front and back pockets. But for $135, utterly ridiculous value.
Ben, any chance, we can see Hopsack or Fresco Bella Spalla pants?
Thanks, and keep up the great work!post #3148 of 36155/7/16 at 10:03amQuote:
Do you mind if I ask how the button stance compares? Also did you have to size differently than SS (Havana or Hudson or Napoli or whichever you own). Thanks! Looking to possibly order the brown jacket but just want to make sure I get the sizing right.post #3149 of 36155/8/16 at 2:14pm
As some others have said here, I'd really like to see standardization of the sizes across the lines. The 38R Benjamin Sartorial "Napoli" line fits me perfectly in the jacket and the pants, and the 38R Blue Label jackets almost fit perfectly (except for the sleeves being a bit tight near the shoulders). But the 38R Benjamin Sartorial "Nobile" jacket is too small everywhere, the Bella Spalla jackets are similar to the Nobile (too small), and the 38R Benjamin Sartorial "Teatro" tuxedo is too small in the pants and too tight near the shoulders. I've bought alot, but I've had to return alot too. I really wish there was more consistency across the lines-- these return shipping fees hurt, but it's more about the time and the hassle of waiting for the item to arrive, contemplating whether I can live with the fit discrepancies, bringing it to my tailor to see if it's something fixable, then going to the post office to return it, etc. I live in NYC-- if you let me, i'd be thrilled to drive to your NJ warehouse and try everything on and then buy whatever fits right there on the spot haha.post #3150 of 36155/8/16 at 6:56pm
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