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post #3076 of 3617
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

Please do post pics, if you feel like it. 

I'm curious to see how the tweaks to the cut worked out. I believe (if I recall correctly) that a) lapels were increased to 9cm, b) waist measurement was let out 1cm, and c) buttoning point was lowered 1cm? If you have the first Bella Spella, please let us know what you think of the tweaks.

Yes, these were the changes along with basting the sleeves and keeping the sleeve buttons unattached altogether and also adding the quarter lining to the upper back.

To be honest after getting this new batch in I'm inclined to go 9.5 cm in the lapels... any thoughts on that? If we do we may need to lower the breast pocket by 1 cm.
post #3077 of 3617
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sudonihm View Post

It looks like 2-3 of the Navys are more a 3-season weight.  Am I reading that right?  If so, I could be in for one of them.  Like the poster above, I could also use to update my navy blazer.  I have a-size-to-big Hickey Freeman that doesn't see any wear.

Any thoughts on doing MTO pants in Fresco or Hopsack?

Yes you can get 3 seasons out of the woolen fabrics but the zegna is more strictly spring/summer due to the nature of the fabric composition imo (unless you live in more of a tropical climate).

Yes I am planning on cutting trousers in this medium charcoal grey fresco.

VBC 100 wool 240 gr
post #3078 of 3617
We can also do this fresco in a medium coffee brown from Tallia Delfino

post #3079 of 3617
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

We can also do this fresco in a medium coffee brown from Tallia Delfino

Now THATS what's up!!!
post #3080 of 3617
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Sounds like the Zegna check is a clear winner for sure. I do like the brown Marlane and will most definitely offer the Tallia midnight hopsack as well. I do like the Zegna linen/wool/silk as well, and the Marlane navy may be good for a later cutting for the fall.

I'll look into doing a completely unstructured jacket with no canvassing whatsoever - not sure if the factory does that (or does it well). Any other input or thoughts? And for those who have received your the most recent MTO please do post or PM me with your thoughts/feedback.

Excellent choices! Maybe if I'm lucky (and ben is unlucky) they won't all sell out in 42r and I can get one of them for next summer. 

 

Way to step it up on the summer fabrics.

Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post


Yes, these were the changes along with basting the sleeves and keeping the sleeve buttons unattached altogether and also adding the quarter lining to the upper back.

To be honest after getting this new batch in I'm inclined to go 9.5 cm in the lapels... any thoughts on that? If we do we may need to lower the breast pocket by 1 cm.

I am enthusiastic about all these changes. Very nice.

 

9.5 cm would be perfect for me as a 42r. That's what my 3-piece is. Might be a little large for the 36r guys. Any way you could ask them to scale it, so the smallest sizes get 8.5, medium and large sizes get 9.5? That would keep the proportions relatively consistent throughout the size range?

 

Fresco charcoal pants are awesome. Would love linen blend or fresco summer pants.

post #3081 of 3617
  • I don't think end of July is too late, but since the previous MTO seemed to take from early January to mid-to-late April to turnaround, if you start to talk about delivery in late August or early September, then I think it might be best to wait on some of these summer fabrics.
  • The fabrics I'm most interested in (various blues, brown Marlane) have already been discussed.
  • I would be a fan of holding the line at 9 cm lapels (or potentially scaling up for some of the larger sizes, rather than affecting all). 
  • The previous Blue Label (made in China) button stance seemed quite high - not sure 1 cm would fix it for me. But I may be considering a long in the future. How much lower are the button stances in the same size for regular vs long?
post #3082 of 3617

Would these jackets only be MTO or would they also be offered through the Sartorial/Bella Sparta lines?

post #3083 of 3617
Quote:
Originally Posted by redbeardedmike View Post

  • I don't think end of July is too late, but since the previous MTO seemed to take from early January to mid-to-late April to turnaround, if you start to talk about delivery in late August or early September, then I think it might be best to wait on some of these summer fabrics.
  • The fabrics I'm most interested in (various blues, brown Marlane) have already been discussed.
  • I would be a fan of holding the line at 9 cm lapels (or potentially scaling up for some of the larger sizes, rather than affecting all). 
  • The previous Blue Label (made in China) button stance seemed quite high - not sure 1 cm would fix it for me. But I may be considering a long in the future. How much lower are the button stances in the same size for regular vs long?

The previous MTO process took a bit longer for a few reasons - partly because I was waiting for a sample to be made which took a few weeks, and while it didn't come out exactly right it was enough for me to make small corrections and approve production to commence. The other reason was the factory did overpromise the delivery date which took an extra few weeks, so that was poor planning on my part in general. We should be able to hit a ready to ship date by end of July, as the factory has confirmed and insisted that actually mid July is within their capabilities.

The button stance was indeed dropped 1cm. Unfortunately I don't have any Longs still here in London to compare to the one regular that I have. I'll try to get Colleen to measure the difference - where/how would you like to see the measurement taken for regular vs. long?
post #3084 of 3617
Quote:
Originally Posted by jamesmullen View Post

Would these jackets only be MTO or would they also be offered through the Sartorial/Bella Sparta lines?

These will be MTO at a promotional price. Depending on fabric availability we may cut some extras as well just as we have done for the current MTO which we have just received and plan to put on the site shortly (the extras).
post #3085 of 3617
We're thinking of trying a few Bella Spalla suits this time around too... price about $425. Thoughts?

Barbera 100 wool



Marlane 100 wool



Marlane 100 wool


Edited by eHaberdasher - 4/25/16 at 5:07am
post #3086 of 3617
Jackets are up. Also have these flannel trousers hitting the site shortly:















post #3087 of 3617

Are the second flannels brown and the last trousers green? Do I see two darts at the top of the seat (to accommodate a "prominent seat")?

 

Also, that cashmere herringbone jacket would be an awesome staple, particularly with the light grey flannels. Bam! awesome winter suit for  $650ish. Casual enough, but not too country to be worn in the city. I would need to sell off another winter jacket or two to make room for it, though...

post #3088 of 3617
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

Are the second flannels brown and the last trousers green? Do I see two darts at the top of the seat (to accommodate a "prominent seat")?

Also, that cashmere herringbone jacket would be an awesome staple, particularly with the light grey flannels. Bam! awesome winter suit for  $650ish. Casual enough, but not too country to be worn in the city. I would need to sell off another winter jacket or two to make room for it, though...

Yes, from top to bottom the flannels are:

1. Taupe/Mushroom (Drago for Canali)
2. Brown (Drago for Canali)
3. Light/medium grey (VBC)
4. Mossy grey (VBC)

They're all relatively lightweight so that you can wear into April/May depending on the weather... I'm actually wearing a pair of flannels today here in London.
Edited by eHaberdasher - 4/26/16 at 9:34am
post #3089 of 3617
Quote:
Originally Posted by scatterbrain View Post

Do I see two darts at the top of the seat (to accommodate a "prominent seat")?

And yes there are 2 darts above each back pocket, but they're still sort of a slimmer Italian cut. Will be working on putting them up within the hour...
post #3090 of 3617
A couple thoughts:
  • I like the lapels at 9cm. Wouldn't change to 9.5cm.
  • Putting in another vote for a 3-roll-2 front, and half-canvas instead of completely unstructured.
  • I'm in for one of the navy summer fabrics, probably the wool.
  • Interested in the fall/winter navy Marlane, too. While I think a later MTO batch for it makes sense, a July delivery ensures it will be ready for the colder months.
  • Also interested in the fresco trousers, both colors. I just got some birthday cash, Ben, and it looks like you're getting almost all of it. shog[1].gif
  • Love the idea of Bella Spalla suits, but I'd rather have plainer fabrics.
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