or Connect
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › www.ehaberdasher.com - affiliate page
New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:

www.ehaberdasher.com - affiliate page - Page 76

post #1126 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post


Hmm. Anyone else with the suits want to weigh in? I would not say the shoulders are all that strong at all. Structured, yes, but not strong and the padding is quite light as well.

 

I agree.  The shoulder is lightly padded with slight roping. 

post #1127 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Hmm. Anyone else with the suits want to weigh in? I would not say the shoulders are all that strong at all. Structured, yes, but not strong and the padding is quite light as well.

Lightly-padded. Strong if you like really natural shoulders, but comparable to, say, J. Crew. In fact, I'd say your typical J. Crew Ludlow has stronger shoulders than the Classico.
post #1128 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

Ben:  I absolutely see the same gap even when standing with my arms at my sides.  And, I do not think it is an issue of needing to narrow the collar as much as it is of needing to make sure the front of the jacket aligns correctly.  On a hunch, I measured at various places of the jacket and found that, at the top button, the side with the collar gap is a half inch wider than the other side (measured with the jacket buttoned from the furthest dart to the center of the button), which is why the jacket pulls so severely to the other side.  I also now notice that the button sits slightly off-center to the non-gap side.

I do not know if I got a bad jacket or if the manufacturer repeated the same mistake on other jackets, but the issue on my jacket is less with the collar and more with the fact that the entire jacket (including the button) pulls to one side.

Thanks for this. I will have to check this out the next time I'm back in the states (which may not be until the end of the year!). Possibly sooner though... but for clarification, from where exactly are you measuring and coming up with 1/2" difference? When you say "wider" - I assume you mean it is shorter (less length) from the side seam?
post #1129 of 2305
I probably misstated my intent, the shoulder comes across in the pictures here as more structured than I prefer. It could very well be just the pictures I've noticed, though. With the Napoli on the way, though, it's probably just simpler for me to wait for that one than try and maybe have to return the classico.
post #1130 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post


Thanks for this. I will have to check this out the next time I'm back in the states (which may not be until the end of the year!). Possibly sooner though... but for clarification, from where exactly are you measuring and coming up with 1/2" difference? When you say "wider" - I assume you mean it is shorter (less length) from the side seam?

 

This is a time when I wish I had photoshop skills to show the points, but these are not skills I possess.  Anyways, I measured across the jacket at the height of the top button.  I measured from the second dart out on either side to the center of the top button when the jacket is buttoned.  The side with the gap was 1/2 inch longer than the non-gap size when measuring these.

 

I'm hoping this is a one suit defect and not a current run defect because it really is a beautiful suit.


Edited by New Shoes1 - 10/1/12 at 7:45pm
post #1131 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldManMachine View Post

Just received my classico 38S today. Ben's service is truly great as my suit was shipped a few hours right after I ordered it on Monday morning. Here are a couple of my photos below before alterations. The shirt that I'm wearing is a Brooks Brothers Non-Iron Slim Fit with a standard classic collar point (14-1/2; 32). Any recommendations and thoughts on the fitment would be greatly appreciated.

 




















Seeing as how we're so close in physical stature, and having gone through your situation already, I'd be curious to see how a 36S looks on you as well. What's your chest measurement?
post #1132 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

This is a time when I wish I had photoshop skills to show the points, but these are not skills I possess.  Anyways, I measured across the jacket at the height of the top button.  I measured from the second dart out on either side to the center of the top button when the jacket is buttoned.  The side with the gap was 1/2 inch longer than the non-gap size when measuring these.

I'm hoping this is a one suit defect and not a current run defect because it really is a beautiful suit.

Thanks for taking the time and effort to explain. While I don't have any Benjamin Classico suits here with me in London, I am eager to go back and check when I get back to the states in December. That being said I have a feeling that yours may be an anomaly, or perhaps your measurements are not right (no offense)? Regardless I appreciate your feedback and experience with the suit. Also, in the other persons photo, the slight gap was on the other side, so if anything I am thinking that the collar may still be an issue for some. I may end up scrapping this model altogether and starting fresh.

What do you guys think of a natural shouldered suit? Too casual? I have my Napoli model back in the US also - forgot to bring it with me here, but I wish I took a few pics of me in it - it's awesome. Just not sure if the shoulder is appropriate for a business suit. Maybe I'll post as a separate question to the forum...
post #1133 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post


Thanks for taking the time and effort to explain. While I don't have any Benjamin Classico suits here with me in London, I am eager to go back and check when I get back to the states in December. That being said I have a feeling that yours may be an anomaly, or perhaps your measurements are not right (no offense)? Regardless I appreciate your feedback and experience with the suit. Also, in the other persons photo, the slight gap was on the other side, so if anything I am thinking that the collar may still be an issue for some. I may end up scrapping this model altogether and starting fresh.
What do you guys think of a natural shouldered suit? Too casual? I have my Napoli model back in the US also - forgot to bring it with me here, but I wish I took a few pics of me in it - it's awesome. Just not sure if the shoulder is appropriate for a business suit. Maybe I'll post as a separate question to the forum...

 

No offense taken.  All I can say definitively is that the front of the jacket pulls to one side in a way that I have never experienced with another jacket.  Would it help if I shipped my suit to you in London?

post #1134 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Thanks for taking the time and effort to explain. While I don't have any Benjamin Classico suits here with me in London, I am eager to go back and check when I get back to the states in December. That being said I have a feeling that yours may be an anomaly, or perhaps your measurements are not right (no offense)? Regardless I appreciate your feedback and experience with the suit. Also, in the other persons photo, the slight gap was on the other side, so if anything I am thinking that the collar may still be an issue for some. I may end up scrapping this model altogether and starting fresh.
What do you guys think of a natural shouldered suit? Too casual? I have my Napoli model back in the US also - forgot to bring it with me here, but I wish I took a few pics of me in it - it's awesome. Just not sure if the shoulder is appropriate for a business suit. Maybe I'll post as a separate question to the forum...

Can't speak for those among us in finance or law, but for the contexts that I wear a suit, natural shoulders are perfectly acceptable.

The classic American sack suit has natural shoulders, and I don't think I've ever heard of that being inappropriate for business. The only thing I can think of that might make it inappropriate for a business setting is patch pockets.
post #1135 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by eHaberdasher View Post

Thanks for taking the time and effort to explain. While I don't have any Benjamin Classico suits here with me in London, I am eager to go back and check when I get back to the states in December. That being said I have a feeling that yours may be an anomaly, or perhaps your measurements are not right (no offense)? Regardless I appreciate your feedback and experience with the suit. Also, in the other persons photo, the slight gap was on the other side, so if anything I am thinking that the collar may still be an issue for some. I may end up scrapping this model altogether and starting fresh.
What do you guys think of a natural shouldered suit? Too casual? I have my Napoli model back in the US also - forgot to bring it with me here, but I wish I took a few pics of me in it - it's awesome. Just not sure if the shoulder is appropriate for a business suit. Maybe I'll post as a separate question to the forum...

Ben, I've never thought of a natural shouldered suit being not formal enough for business, but I can see your point. I love natural shoulders, and I think it would be a great option. In basic colors, I doubt anyone would notice but the wearer, anyway. Frankly, to my eye it just looks makes a person look better dressed - too many "business" suits with strong shoulders make the suit look ill-fitting, IMO. (Maybe the exception is a double-breasted suit, but that's a different animal.)

There's a trend in the mainline US stores, as well. Brooks is bringing in some natural-shouldered options these days, and Hickey Freeman has softened the shoulders on some of its latest suits (they call it the American Soft Shoulder, and while it's a big move from their usual very structured look, it's still not as natural as I'd like). But their good suits are three times the price of yours for the same level of quality, and even then, they don't have the fit of yours.

Plus, you'll still be offering one of the regular-shouldered models, anyway, right?

I guess bottom line from all of this is that I hope you offer them. At the least, it'll be a great look for sport coats and/or for unlined suits down the road.
post #1136 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by New Shoes1 View Post

No offense taken.  All I can say definitively is that the front of the jacket pulls to one side in a way that I have never experienced with another jacket.  Would it help if I shipped my suit to you in London?

Thanks for the offer, but no need to send. I have a test order coming in here to London soon - I'll report my findings.
post #1137 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisfits View Post

Can't speak for those among us in finance or law, but for the contexts that I wear a suit, natural shoulders are perfectly acceptable.
The classic American sack suit has natural shoulders, and I don't think I've ever heard of that being inappropriate for business. The only thing I can think of that might make it inappropriate for a business setting is patch pockets.

True - very true. Thanks for weighing in. The suits definitely would not feature patch pockets, that's for sure (even though many brands do that - something I never understood on a wool suit).
post #1138 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by kmdsimpson View Post

Ben, I've never thought of a natural shouldered suit being not formal enough for business, but I can see your point. I love natural shoulders, and I think it would be a great option. In basic colors, I doubt anyone would notice but the wearer, anyway. Frankly, to my eye it just looks makes a person look better dressed - too many "business" suits with strong shoulders make the suit look ill-fitting, IMO. (Maybe the exception is a double-breasted suit, but that's a different animal.)
There's a trend in the mainline US stores, as well. Brooks is bringing in some natural-shouldered options these days, and Hickey Freeman has softened the shoulders on some of its latest suits (they call it the American Soft Shoulder, and while it's a big move from their usual very structured look, it's still not as natural as I'd like). But their good suits are three times the price of yours for the same level of quality, and even then, they don't have the fit of yours.
Plus, you'll still be offering one of the regular-shouldered models, anyway, right?
I guess bottom line from all of this is that I hope you offer them. At the least, it'll be a great look for sport coats and/or for unlined suits down the road.

Thanks for your input and continued support! Yes we will definitely offer the soft shoulder sport jacket... just wondering if I should try it in a suit too.
post #1139 of 2305
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisfits View Post

Can't speak for those among us in finance or law, but for the contexts that I wear a suit, natural shoulders are perfectly acceptable.
The classic American sack suit has natural shoulders, and I don't think I've ever heard of that being inappropriate for business. The only thing I can think of that might make it inappropriate for a business setting is patch pockets.

Though my law firm is admittedly more casual, it would be fine here. Bolded because the classic american shoulder is my favorite, it's just hard to find. Apparently the newish Hickey Freeman stuff is supposed to have a pretty spectacular shoulder.
post #1140 of 2305

Ben--I ordered suits in a couple different sizes, and need to make a decision on some returns fairly promptly.  For fear that my earlier post may have been overlooked in light of the collar/shoulder issues now being discussed, could I ask you when you have a moment to answer the questions I asked on page 75, post #1124?  I don't mean to be impatient--I'd just like to get something in the mail tomorrow.

New Posts  All Forums:Forum Nav:
  Return Home
  Back to Forum: Classic Menswear
Styleforum › Forums › Men's Style › Classic Menswear › www.ehaberdasher.com - affiliate page